Wyoming Woody Teardrop Build (Completed: 6/22/2013)

[_Ryan_]

More progress on the trailer over Memorial day weekend. It's getting close now! As I wrap up more and more pieces of this puzzle the excitement grows as I can watch it take shape!

All the wiring holes were drilled through the spars and I began installing the insulation. I used 2 layers of the 3/4" styrofoam insulation. I installed the foil facing inwards one the first layer and out on the second. If the radiant barrier doesn't work due to not having enough air space, at least there will be a couple moisture barriers.



Some good pictures of the wiring channels.



I used a carbide tipped miter saw to cut the hinge. It worked out well and made a very precise cut.


I used a dremel to cut the flange on the hatch side to go over the sidewall.





Inside of the wiring compartment in the galley.


I bit the bullet and installed the gas struts. I used 80# struts and they aren't quite strong enough so I am using the hinge box to prop it up... I have stronger ones coming from McMaster-Carr! They fit nicely inside the hatch recesses, but I did unfortunately have to drill a few extra holes to get them seated correctly.


I used some left over poplar and made light switch plates. I used an ogee router bit for the edging. The plates allow me just enough room for the wiring behind the switches in the wall.



Finally I tested out the galley lights! Plenty of light for making evening cocktails!

[Junkboy999]

Man that is really coming out nice looking. Keep at it.

[_Ryan_]

Man that is really coming out nice looking. Keep at it.

Thanks Terry! Keep an eye on this thread, my plan is to have her done in 3 weeks!

[KCStudly]

Yeah, all of your work looks first rate!

The fuse panel install, the light switch finials, and switch plates, and those are just the details! Rock solid.

Did you make the switch plates yourself, or were they available for the switches that you chose?

Nice work, first class.

[_Ryan_]

Yeah, all of your work looks first rate!

The fuze panel install, the light switch finials, and switch plates, and those are just the details! Rock solid.

Did you make the switch plates yourself, or were they available for the switches that you chose?

Nice work, first class.

Thanks KC!

The switch plates were purchased from Frank Bear over at http://teardroptrailerparts.com. I ordered my hinge, porch lights, and a few other odds and ends from him. Highly recommended!

[_Ryan_]

The wiring is DONE! I had a lot of fun working on the trailer this weekend. I made a ton of progress and it looks like I will make my goal of finishing before the our first trip on the 19th!

The wiring compartment.


The Turnigy Watt meter is a great addition. It shows the instantaneous watt/amp usage, total amp hour usage, peak watt/amp, voltage, basically everything! It was less than $30 bucks and should be an amazing tool.


Tested all the lights to make sure they are working.


I installed the hatch latch and cut the bars just enough so it will close. Once completed I will need to go back and trim the bars to the exact length to fit into the walls when in the locked position.


Here's an interesting picture but it requires a bit of an explanation. I used Google hangouts to setup a video chat between my phone and tablet. Why do this you ask? It allowed me to place the phone in the hatch and close the door in order to view the clearance of the lights and counter. The video was transferred outside to my tablet from which I took this picture. I say I have about 1/4" clearance.


I installed a new trailer hitch and wiring kit on the Ford Escape. The trailer fits PERFECTLY behind the Escape and will tow just about parallel to the ground. This is the first time I tested the new wiring harness on the the trailer, and the first time the trailer light circuits were truly tested as well. Fortunately everything worked great and I breathed a sigh of relief!


Installed the switch panels and plate which control the outside porch light.


Installed the stabilizer jacks. I need to do this before the outside skins can be installed as I need to take off the wheels.


Finally the finished wiring pics!


Here is the soon to be enclosed compartment above the wiring/fuse compartment which will be covered by the outside skin. This location contains the splices for all the wire runs which then continue to the the fuse box below. I have designed it so if I ever need to get access to the splices, I can pull them out from enlarged holes in the top of the wiring compartment.




Here is the location of my wiring exit in the front to the tongue box. I have conduit cover which will screw into these backing blocks once the outside skin is on!


Next up the outside skin!

[DMcCam]

Looking fantastic Ryan!!! One thing about the stabilizer jacks, they aren't really for lifting. I think they are only rated to about 400# each. You might consider using jack stands to hold up the trailer for skinning. Just a thought.

Cheers,

Dave

[_Ryan_]

Looking fantastic Ryan!!! One thing about the stabilizer jacks, they aren't really for lifting. I think they are only rated to about 400# each. You might consider using jack stands to hold up the trailer for skinning. Just a thought.

Cheers,

Dave

I have my second skin up and gluing now. I believe mine are rated for 650# lift each. If it can hold out until tomorrow morning I will be in the clear.

Thanks!

[_Ryan_]

Just a quick update from the camera on my Android phone. I am really excited about this week's progress, but unfortunately I don't have time to upload the other pictures today. I will have a full post sometime tomorrow night when I get back to my computer!

[_Ryan_]

Lots of work last week on the build. I hit a big milestone now that the external Okoume plywood skins are on!

I used Great Stuff foam insulation to fill the lowest odd shaped void in the outside roof. I then used a serrated kitchen knife to trim it to flush with the roof.


The wire channels were also filled. I also shot some silicone in the spar holes to hold the wires and prevent abrasion since I will (hopefully) never have access to them again after the skins are on.



Channels trimmed flush.


I installed the lower edge board on the hatch. I used Okoume for this, and plan to do all the trim pieces around the hatch in a similar way.



Starting to install the skins.



I used the wall templates to help clamp the skins to the walls. The templates had voids where the insulation was so once it was lined up, it was very easy to locate the solid walls and clamp supports across them.



Last look at the roof before the skins go on.


Here is the void where all the wires are spliced. It rests above the fuse compartment and will be enclosed by the skin. If I need access to these wires I can pull them down into the fuse compartment to work on them. You can also see on the left where the wires from the hatch will be connected with bullet connectors.


Roof goes on!


Finished routing the overhang on the sides and the holes for the vent and skylight. I have to tip my hat to Doug Hodder again for his suggestion on the Okoume plywood. The color and grain on this wood is amazing, and just what I pictured when I was in the design phase.

[KCStudly]

Nice progress, and that Okoume sure is nice stuff, isn't it?

Any problems bending it over your radii? What is the smallest radius that you had to match?

I'm a little concerned about doing my front 13.5 inch curve.

[_Ryan_]

Nice progress, and that Okoume sure is nice stuff, isn't it?

Any problems bending it over your radii? What is the smallest radius that you had to match?

I'm a little concerned about doing my front 13.5 inch curve.

The smallest bend I had to make was around a 13" radius. You should have no problem.

For reference I am using the 4mm thick Okoume which is just a bit thicker than the 3mm(1/8") birch. The bending capability seems similar for both. I did use a sawhorse and some tie downs to train the Okoume to bend in the correct direction for a few days before gluing. I just ratcheted it a couple times each day, and when I went to install it, it laid over most of the curves on its own.

You've got a great build going on over there! Good Luck!

[KCStudly]

Thank you for both the info and the words of support.

I'm using the 5 mm ply (about 3/16 thk). I, too, plan on training it. Hope I have the same luck you did.

Thansk again.

[Craig Shaffer]

Just wanted to ask a quick question. How much do you think total weight will be when you are finished?

[_Ryan_]

Just wanted to ask a quick question. How much do you think total weight will be when you are finished?

Good question! I hope it will come in under 1000 but realistically I wouldn't be surprised if it were near 1200. I did similar construction methods to others who were around that same weight.

I did my best to minimize the weight during the design, but there are too many variables. The weight of all the little things like glue, screws, epoxy, etc. really do add up. I did use 1/2" plywood for my cabinets, skeletonized walls, and tried my best not to overbuilt. The bottom line is I don't know but I am hoping for the best!