In order to get the sway cam bars to be parallel to the tunion arm, Reese products said that I will need to "shim" the bracket. After further review, I would need to shim the bracket 1 1/8" inches to zero over a 6 inch section of the frame and I am not comfortable doing this. Oh well, looks like I need to pick up a friction sway setup which is not ideal but better than nothing.
Ordered earlier this week the Eccotemp L5 which was posted on the prior page, but since http://www.energystead.com/categories/Tankless-Water-Heaters/ is out of them, they offered a free upgrade to the Eccotemp L7, which is valued at 189, discounted to 169 for 111 shipped! (with the "7" discount code for the holiday weekend.)
Home run! Now I can plumb this into the pressure washer for better cleaning.
On your hitch my guess is that the adjustable mount has moved you angle point forward. Try a mock up with another section of frame mounted to the out side of your trailer frame. You could do it by clamping a 2x4 to your frame. That should move the spring arms out and change angle.
The problem that I had with these low end water heaters is that it was very difficult to get a constant shower temp. The temp was either to hot or to cold ...... Most folks like shower water from 99 deg to 106 range.
If I were to offset the cam arm bracket by a 2x4, it will also require the snap bracket to be moved out. I have been thinking about this and the best way is to do some welding on the cam arm to offset the hanger.
OverTheTopCargoTrailer,
I used this shower with the dog and I did not have to problem regulating the heat. I think the extra BTU from the L7 vs L5 might make the difference? A few more test runs will give me a good opinion of the product.
I have the smaller version of your water heater (mounted inside in the shower) and the one thing I have noticed is that if the temp drops a lot at night to say 40 degrees, then the water in the water tank also gets much colder and then the shower will not be as hot, same in reverse during extreme hot weather so always let it run for just a second at first before jumping under it. Otherwise mine has worked great now for going on five years with a fair amount of use each year. I didn't even change out my batteries until a month ago and that was just from fear of them corroding.
Here are the EccoTemp L7 and its mounting bracket (3/4" galvanized pipe and T fitting) fits into the safety chain bracket for an easy setup. The bottom of the galv pipe has a pvc coupler to break the ground in case of an electrical fault.
I only need a few more plumbing fittings and a 6" piece of 1/2" OD hose to reduce the quantity of water which increases the pressure to the heating unit.
The electric is all finished and this simple switch bonds the ground/neutral since the Honda 2000i is not bonded. With the switch on, the converter panel is now the main service panel and must be bonded for the fault to travel to the generator's grounding lug and to the earth. When the switch is off, the neutral and ground are isolated since the only bonding jumper will be located at the main power panel at the house/campground and then seek earth. Since the ac/dc converter is technically a sub panel in this second situation, it is against code to bond the sub panel and the main service panel in the house/campground.
Labeled and the electric is done until i get an AC/DC DVD TV.
Picked up from Lowes an 8' dishwasher connection braided 3/8" hose, both ends are compression fitting and an extra 3/8" comp to 3/4" garden hose fitting (~$2) to connect the spigot trailer side to hose for the water heater.
Just after the t fitting is a double ended female connection to connect the shore water to the trailer. It has to be double female since the shore output and trailer input is the same male fitting.