Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[GPW]

How you keep the Beer from falling out ...

[Wolffarmer]

There is a hatch cover.

Randy

[GPW]

Oh Cool !!!

[Wolffarmer]

There are 13 some doors in my TD. That is with it having only one cabin door. And I will probably add another to the cabin cupboards.

Randy

[GPW]

13 doors ... Hole-y' teardrop... I’ll have just the one ...

[Wolffarmer]

13 doors/hatch covers. But just remembered I split one of the hatch covers last year so the count is now 14.

There are 4 hatches and covers. 10 door. and 2 windows.

[KCStudly]

Kudzu, I think your previous prospect on the foam would be the way to go.

The Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF's) have a molded in plastic tab that might be a problem to deal with. There will be enough gluing ahead of you on your project that there is no need to introduce 10x more.

$0.02.

[Jack B.]

So Randy, those VW rims on your tear?

Jack

[Wolffarmer]

Good eye Jack. It is the rear axle, springs and wheels from a VW Rabbit pickup a guy gave me long time ago. He tried to give me two but I did not want to be greedy. Should have taken them. I removed the brake parts and made a one inch spacer between the axle stubs and the axle tube. On this axle instead of the axle stubs welded to the tube there is a plate welded on the end of the tube and 4 threaded holes. The axle has a flange that bolts to the plates and I put the spacer in there along with longer 10.0 metric bolts. Those buggers where expensive.

Randy

edit. I would like to turn the brake drum off of the hubs some day to reduce the unsprung weight a bit. Don't have a metal lathe and any method I have figured out starts with "Hold my beer and watch this"

[Jack B.]

I do believe the four hole VW rims will fit the standard four lug trailer axle hubs. Just not sure about the deeper offset and what that would do concerning bearing stress. I was considering VW wheels for my H.F. type 4'X4' trailer but would have to extend the lug bolts ( bearing issues?) or narrow the frame to use them. Great way to get to 14" rims though on a four holer. I may just spring for a longer axle if I can find one with a four lug pattern. For some reason I'm drawn to the fours instead of the fives for trailers. Can't tell if it's a Palovian or Skinnerian issue. A ringing in the ears or a tingling in the feet.

Four holer, now that brings back some memories of youth living in the rural south. Of course ours only had two holes. We were poor. What a difference a sewer makes.

You know, the hole in the floor concept has some merits. In the high country where insects are rare it could be a good way for standing(ish) room. And with skeeter netting and a sheet of plywood under the opening at lower elevation you get the extra height and extra ventilation. Put the wheels far back, balance the weight around that placement (kegs in the back) and make a longer opening in the floor. Using the jacks to get the height you seem to have on yours and presto change-o You've got a room. It could be great for long stay situations and not used for one nighters on the move.

Jack

[Jack B.]

I just keep thinking about that hole in the floor. Build a 5'X10' or longer camper body with the bed front to back in either the front or back. Then you've got a 4'X4' or so standing area "room" in the remaining space if you want it. Could even be a break down box that you assemble under the trailer when in use and store the pieces under the bed or in the tow vehicle when not. Could just be a drop down box but then you're stuck with it inside when you don't necessarily want to use it that way. Could use 1/4" plywood or 1" foam for a four sided frame and put a tarp under it.

You got the mind a buzzin' on this one. I've about decided this forum isn't going to be good for me. Too many ideas and too little time, with a garage and yard that are w-a-y too small..

Jack

[Jack B.]

Just to prove I can't quit mulling once I get started:

For the hole in the floor gang (to paraphrase western history) I've had an idea. Say you have a 4'X4' opening in the floor to open up for standing room. Instead of having parts to assemble and store somewhere when you aren't using the "split level" effect you could have the front and back under-walls hinge up under the trailer floor while the side walls could be the floor of the trailer when up and the side walls of the drop zone when lowered. There when needed and not when they aren't.

This doesn't make allowances for a floor down under or uneven terrain but hey, somebody else could jump in with a solution. Otherwise you might have to wait another day or so until I have another "Eureka" moment.

Jack

[Bogo]

At one point I had mulled on a drop floor at one point, but it wasn't designed to drop all the way to the ground. The side walls of the drop down section are hinged to the drop down section, and folded to the inside. The fore/aft walls would have their hinge point a little higher than the side to side walls. This is to allow them to nicely fold over the top of the fore/aft walls. The side to side walls would be shorter so they could fold down inside the fore/aft walls. The tops of the walls would have an edge that hooked into a grove in the floor around the opening. This would hold the tops of the walls in place while the floor was lowered. Raising and lowering the floor could be done with a cable and pulley system, or by hand. Strong draw latches would be needed to hold the floor up while travelling. When in the travel position, a sheet of plywood would need to cover the opening, and tops of the walls. Using standoffs, it would rest on top of the folded walls. Obviously the wall structures and hinges need to hold the weight of whatever is on the floor. Heavy duty piano hinges are available. I figured the drop section would have a lip around the edge that is pulled up tight against the bottom of the TD floor. A gasket would be used to keep water and dust out when travelling.

An important issue. The side walls and hinges. If the hinge is attached flat to the floor surface, it will want to peal away when weight is put on the floor. The fasteners will have to be very stout to counteract that. Instead glue and screw a board to the floor, and attach the hinge to the side of it. Now the fasteners are in shear and will hold much better. A gasket can be placed between the bottom edge of the wall, and the board to block air flow.

[Wolffarmer]

I considered all of those options and a few others. But a plain old hole in the floor won out. Simple, strong, light and you don't live with your feet hanging out the bottom. In a TD you will probably only using it for a few minutes a day. I drop a couple of rear vehicle carpet pads on the ground to stand on in bare feet. Strong winds, rain, sleet, snow could be a problem but it is a TD after all. Some things I just have to put up with.

Randy

[GPW]

Hey , how about this ? Wrap a shower curtain around yourself and you have an indoor shower whilst standing technically “outside”, well your feet anyway ... Trap door is always Cool eh !!!