Covering with FRP questions.

[Paradiseteardrop]

Hi Everybody I am covering with FRP sheets. I have the FRP adheasive but do I really need it for the roof. I can see getting it on by myself is going to be a real peoblem. I see other post where they did not use any contact even with aluminum. Thanks ---Paradise CA

[planovet]

I floated my aluminum roof and I'm sure you can do the same with FRP.

[bdosborn]

I floated Filon on the roof of two trailers without any issues.

Bruce

[Z3R0]

I've done some research on this as well as that's what I'm going with. It seems the best tool is to float. Silicone the perimeter and seams. It has a different shrink rate than the wood and if the adhesive is strong enough it could crack. I think they also said to leave a 1/8 inch for expansion on the sides of your profile if you are covering with trim. I think the silicone will also stop it from rattling like crazy down the highway. This was on done on the interior of a boats cabin. Ill see if I can find the forum it was very informative.

[Paradiseteardrop]

I've done some research on this as well as that's what I'm going with. It seems the best tool is to float. Silicone the perimeter and seams. It has a different shrink rate than the wood and if the adhesive is strong enough it could crack. I think they also said to leave a 1/8 inch for expansion on the sides of your profile if you are covering with trim. I think the silicone will also stop it from rattling like crazy down the highway. This was on done on the interior of a boats cabin. Ill see if I can find the forum it was very informative.

I see that somebody said you could order longer peices at Lowes. Going to check it out. I used staples around some edges to hole it there and it will crack. But pretty tough stuff. I used the commen joining strip to add to the sides. 4 x 10 TD Dont know how long it will last in the sun. Also bought a shrinker streacher from HF and used 1x1 aluminum angle for the edges. 320 wet and dry will take out the grab marks. Then belt sand and leave it a brushed finish. I will try a pic soon.

[doug hodder]

A regular RV parts/shop/supplier can get you the 1" x 1/2" trim that will work perfect for you in this situation. You won't need the shrinker. It comes in 16' sticks I believe. I ordered up 5 for the new trailer I'm building. It's very workable, doesn't need to be heat treated prior to bending and comes pre-drilled. It's not as cheap as 1x1 but has a nice profile to it. If you are going to do the 1x1...you might try ripping it down on 1 side to 1/2" so that it won't want to pucker so much when you bend it. If you do this, back it up with a sacrificial piece of wood and use a carbide blade on the table saw when you do it. Just an idea. Doug

[bdosborn]

A regular RV parts/shop/supplier can get you the 1" x 1/2" trim that will work perfect for you in this situation.

That's what I used on the second trailer. That stuff is a joy to work with, easily bending to the front radius. I tempered aluminum angle from the home center and bent it for the first trailer. What a PITA that was!

Bruce

[Paradiseteardrop]

A regular RV parts/shop/supplier can get you the 1" x 1/2" trim that will work perfect for you in this situation.

That's what I used on the second trailer. That stuff is a joy to work with, easily bending to the front radius. I tempered aluminum angle from the home center and bent it for the first trailer. What a PITA that was!

Bruce

I just spoke to a sales person of TT parts and he said it is best to paint the FRB from the home supply . He said it would start flaking because it does not have any UV protection. Anybody have this problem Yet?
Its 32.47 around here for a 4x8 and the 4 x x10 is --- $86--- bucks Special order.

[mbstonegate]

The sales person gave you good advice. The FRP sheets from the home centers do not have UV protection, you can check the manufacturer technical data sheets to verify for yourself. They are also typically the same composition as exterior rated architectural FRP materials (not referring to Filon here, which is a different product) - the exterior rated FRP material has gel coat for UV protection, which the home center material does not.

The material from the home centers should be primed and painted for use on a teardrop, an epoxy paint would be my preferred choice. Primer type can also be matched to the type of raw material/resin the FRP is made from- this material info can also be found on the data sheets.

There is plenty of FRP out there that's left unprotected from the elements and in all sorts of applications.... mileage and opinions concerning the durability or common sense of that practice will vary. My opinion is that unprotected fiberglass will decay and needs UV protection.

[bdosborn]

I used Filon, which is FRP with a UV stable gelcoat. However, the jury is still out on whether you need to paint FRP from the home center. Some have done it and some haven't. So far there haven't been any complaints about UV degradation. YMMV.

Bruce

[Paradiseteardrop]

Better make up my mind on the painting before I go much further. Be better if I do it before the trim is on.Hate to do it with this nice finish.
Thanks for the feedback
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[bdosborn]

Here's a long thread on FRP from the home center...

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35105&hilit=frp

Bruce