Muircockhall Build Log

[grantstew8]

The measurements of the actual chassis and wheel positions changed the CAD model slightly. The hole in the floor needs to be a little smaller.
The most fundamental change was the size of the wheels and the axle position: it moved forward.
Other than that I spent time sorting some of the Alu’ details around the door, the front box and also used a tongue weight calculator. (thank you tnttt)
We’re there or there about’s.

I’ve fiddled about with a few things but the only real changes will be in the galley. I’ve a basic design and it will change I’m sure.

Here is a link to a CAD animation on youtube http://youtu.be/Wl6GdhLYJ7s

Let me know your thoughts

[KCStudly]

Very nice modeling and animation!

The profile is very pleasing, as well.

One thing I did notice is that you show the door opening going all the way to the floor with the wall fully cut away at the bottom. Most designs leave at least a small portion of the wall under the door to act as a sill. This greatly stabilizes the wall during construction and handling, and, IMO, makes for a much stronger box. Consider it.

If you are set on keeping it the way you show, you may want to leave a small strap of material there at least temporarily until after the wall is mounted and some of the spars go in; then cut it out once things are stabilized.

You do have a very stout frame, IIRC, so may not be as big of an issue for you as it is for smaller bolt together trailers with shallower frame sections.

Build on!

[grantstew8]

Dear KC,
Thank you for the comments especially about adding a sill. I'd not considered breaking that top section: murphy's law states that I would have.
I'll not add a sill but I'll brace the opening. When we built whole sips walls for houses, the openings would be braced during transport. Despite knowing this, I would have forgotten and cracked it....

Thank you for picking this up!

[grantstew8]

All 4 stabilizers have been removed to allow deck to be cut down to size. The length will stay the same, however I'm cutting off 223mm nearly 9" each side.
Once this job is done, the next plan is to de-rust and paint the chassis and re attach the supports, in a different place. I'll need a few hands to turn the trailer upside down. I can then use a wire brush and paint it normally rather than trying to do this on my back looking up.
While it's on it's back I'll also run the wiring for vehicle trailer lights and 12V and 240V to the galley.

[grantstew8]

Before.....


After

Used hammerite, the original chassis was already silver so it made sense.
Much debate about the hardness of hammerite however, it's low use and will be kept inside a garage so rust should not be an issue.

[grantstew8]

The back end, where the shower was located, had de-laminated. It took a little effort and the existing ply came away.
Off to screwfix to buy some sikaflex and created a new layer.


Weighted down with boxes of greeting cards, I knew they would come in handy.


I checked this morning and it's stuck down.

[KCStudly]

You're well on your way now! Keep on it.

[grantstew8]

Using some dimensions from a CAD drawing I marked out the "curve"
Using push-fit 16mm 3/4" water pipe I followed the marks made from the measurements and drew a curve using chalk. I know it's not a thin line but I was cutting all 4 sheets at the same time.


This is it marked out



and cut.....!

Having sent the door size in real life, and worked out that there is a foam mattress inside the TD, I'm going to change the design (thanks to KC ) and put in a sill below the door to strengthen and improve racking of the walls.

[grantstew8]

Smoothed the jigsaw wiggles with an electric planer. It worked well, I'm always concerned about taking away too much wood.


Cut the door out and left the sill. The blade wandered at the top of the door, nothing major from a structural point of view but a pain to patch/fix. I may may the door 5mm taller to get rid of any filling or repairing.

[KCStudly]

Cutting the profile and door is a major milestone. Stay on it and you will be camping in no time.

[grantstew8]

Made the door opening a little taller and cut out the mistake made yesterday.
Cut up a few spare decking planks into wall studs. The timber was left over from another project; Now have a drawing with dimension so the studs line up with bulkheads and shelves giving them a solid fixing into timber rather than just 6mm ply.


I've also included "conduit" positions for 240v and 12v wiring (separated) The reality is that in the wall it will just be a drilled hole through the stud not a physical conduit. The studs are too thin and it will impact structural integrity by using conduit.
Under the chassis I will use conduit to protect the wiring from water ingress and impact damage.

Busy weekend ahead, unfortunately have a few chores that will get in the way of the TD build.

[KCStudly]

Nice to have a solid plan for the "meat and potatoes"... the main elements of the build.

[grantstew8]

Hey KC, thanks for the support and encouragement

[KCStudly]

No problem. I have received so much encouragement from TNTTT that it is only fair to give back.

On that note, how much clearance do you have between the edge of your counter and your hatch ribs?

I am a firm believer in deep (3 inch or more) hatch ribs to help combat spring back, especially on long swoopy hatches with a tight radius. Don't forget to allow for counter top finish material, edge trim, and some error margin. I mention this because your counter edge looks a bit close to your wall edge.

[grantstew8]

Yup you're right they were too close. I've an inch clearance now. The galley is going to made to fit, once the walls, roof and rear hatch are completed so making changes will be easy.

The idea was to make the rear ribs 2" deep, a composite of four layers of 1/4" ply "glued and screwed"
I'd read the debates about spring back and though that a ply composite would offer more resistance than pine/timber cut and/or biscuit jointed.
The skin is to be thinnest bendy ply I can get for the surfaces of the hatch, 1/8" and perhaps put on two layers. If I use just one, I'll add fibreglass mat and then epoxy finish

To change to 3" is an easy redraw and like your other advice I'll mull it over and probably change to 3" ribs.