#1

[GPW]

Bogo, using your information , we could generally predict an unprotected Foamie would last around 35-40 years ... Imagine how much longer it would last with just a coat of paint on it ..

[Mary C]

Bogo I didn't realize till today that you were building along the same lines as me. You are doing a great job Cant wait till I get to see yours in person.

Mary C.

[ghcoe]

Just caught up on this one. Wow, what a wonderful job you are doing. You will be out and about enjoying your foamie soon.

Thanks, I hope so. Looks like I have the go for a trailer next week. Baring any emergencies that is .

[ghcoe]

Did a bit of fairing today. A few more applications and I should be ready for the edge trim.

Fairing2

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Fairing

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[GPW]

Really Nice the way you did the kerfs so it’s pretty inside too ... Is that roof really 4” thick ? That’s just Gotta’ be STRONG eh !!!

[ghcoe]

Really Nice the way you did the kerfs so it’s pretty inside too ... Is that roof really 4” thick ? That’s just Gotta’ be STRONG eh !!!

Well it would be strong if it was but, no.... It is two 1" sheets for a total of 2" to match the rest. Worked out pretty good.

[GPW]

That will still be Strong !!! It’s the curve gives it strength !!!

[celticquetzel]

Now I'm totally intrigued by your build. And will have to lurk on the foamie site for a while. Looks great. And really thoughtful craftsmanship.

[tac422]

What are you going to use for edge trim ?

[ghcoe]

Now I'm totally intrigued by your build. And will have to lurk on the foamie site for a while. Looks great. And really thoughtful craftsmanship.

Welcome to the madness...

What are you going to use for edge trim ?

Corner bead. Galvanized metal with paper attached. Glues on great with the Gripper. I already have it along my back hatch area for a test.

Corner bead

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[Bogo]

Bogo I didn't realize till today that you were building along the same lines as me. You are doing a great job Cant wait till I get to see yours in person.

? I think you mean ghcoe. I'm working on designing a hard sided pop up TTT using SIP panels. It's still in the design phase so I'm soaking up ideas all over.
What I'm working on:

More has been optimized and fleshed out since these images. 12' x 5' interior with standing height in the bathroom/kitchen area, and about 2' shorter at the far end of the bed/couch. Last night and today I worked on door and door jamb details so I can build the doors in the wall SIPs, then cut them out with a router. There is more I need to do on the door jam detail. I need to get dimensions for RV door latches, and change the way the offset bulb seal is held in place.

[tac422]

ghcoe,
I really like your idea of using the corner molding.
So I "stole" the idea, and found plastic drywall molding designed to go around curves.
I have pix in my build thread , if you haven't seen it ...
(Yeaaa, I have a build thread !)

My foamie had sat a while, and the foam also looked like it had started to deteriorate. I took a foxtail brush to it, and it cleaned up nicely.

tac

[ghcoe]

ghcoe,
I really like your idea of using the corner molding.
So I "stole" the idea, and found plastic drywall molding designed to go around curves.
I have pix in my build thread , if you haven't seen it ...
(Yeaaah, I have a build thread !)

My foamie had sat a while, and the foam also looked like it had started to deteriorate. I took a foxtail brush to it, and it cleaned up nicely.

tac

Thanks.

I too looked at the plastic edging here. I liked it too, but it was almost twice the price as the metal paper edging I found. The plastic would be easier for the bends since it is already cut. The metal paper I found works great with the Gripper and looks like it will be nearly transparent with little faring. I will have to make the cuts in the metal for the curves though. Your build is looking great and I am glad you were able to use my idea successfully. This may be a new standard in building......

I also will be using metal flashing for some of the build. Take a look at that too. It comes in a few different sizes and makes good hard points too.

[ghcoe]

Digging in the canoe forums again and found this product. They are using it for coating their wood canvas canoes and fairing. Seems they use three to four coats.

http://canoeguybc.wordpress.com/tag/canvas/

CHILDERS CP-50 MV1 COATING

DESCRIPTION:
VI-CRYL CHIL-SEAL CP-50A MV1 Coating is a white coating which is also an excellent adhesive. It brushes easily and yet forms a tough film even over surfaces such as glass cloth or canvas. Being a water based material, it is safe to use; it does not attack plastic foams or other adhesives. Brushes and tools are easily cleaned with water. CHILSEAL CP-50A MV1 Coating is fire resistive. It is also available in Marine Grade (CP-50A HV2 Coating), which meets MIL-A-3316 specification and USCG 164.012.
USES:
CHIL-SEAL CP-50A MV1 Coating is used for adhering fabrics such as glass cloth, canvas (up to 8 oz.) and brattice cloth to many insulated surfaces such as round and rectangular duct work and equipment. It is also used for adhering the laps of these fabrics as well as some woven glass cloths on pipe insulation. CHIL-SEAL CP-50A MV1 Coating is used as a coating over all of the above mentioned fabrics and also finds use as a coating over plastic foam materials such as polystyrene. CHIL-SEAL CP-50A MV1 Coating can be brushed on the joints of duct liner insulation to help prevent air erosion of the glass fiber.

I like the fact that it is fire resistive and will not attack foam and is used with polystyrene.

[GPW]

That’s a great Blog eh !!! Interesting what his observations on Fiberglass are..
Didn’t Rosey (wherever she is lately? ) use a water based lagging compound quite successfully on her foamie’ boat ...