Our first tear/woody- feedback welcome!

[theDangerz]

Greetings all

I'm pretty new here, but have been feverishly reading over every detailed build thread i can find.
The amount of knowledge (and skill) in these pages is stunning.

I thought i would post the most recent version of our design and see if anyone has some feedback or ideas.
Like I said, i'm really new to this, so feel free to tell me if anything im planning is bad/dumb/a disaster waiting to happen.



Basically, we are looking to build a small/efficient tear to pull behind our mini (meaning im looking for lightweight).
Mostly our use will be for light camping and tailgating before games, but who knows...

We don't need much in terms of storage and are comfortable in tight spaces (we spent the last year living out of our VW bus while we drove through mexico and central america) so im thinking about using the 4x8 HF trailer but shortening it to 4x6.




Still working out the details as i "build" it board by board in sketchup, so let me know your thoughts and ideas!

Based upon what ive seen in other builds, im planning on a skeletal wall out of 3/4"ply with 1/8"skins and what seems to be referred to as the "steve" method of resting the interior ceiling on a ledge and blocking between the spars.

Past that...who knows, im just glad i found this forum before starting to cut!

[High Desert]

I like the profile you've drawn. It's different in a good way to my eyes. Nice interior space on a small footprint.

Will the 2nd rear shelf be accessed through the forward shelf area or are you planning a small hatch? Biggest challenge may be the upper rear radius, its tight but looks good. This should look sharp. Will be watching for more

[theDangerz]

I like the profile you've drawn. It's different in a good way to my eyes. Nice interior space on a small footprint.

Will the 2nd rear shelf be accessed through the forward shelf area or are you planning a small hatch? Biggest challenge may be the upper rear radius, its tight but looks good. This should look sharp. Will be watching for more

Thanks!

Current thought is that the second (top) shelf will be split with access to both the camper and the rear/galley.
i plan on having at least a small hatch for access to a counter/prep space and what storage is back there...still working on that image.

the radius is about 8"...i think i read others that had pulled that off with 1/8"ply...but ill do a bit of reading.
thanks again!

[Junkboy999]

Nice looking little shape. An 10 - 8 inch radius can be done with the proper type of wood. there is thin plywood that is use to wrap around and formers to make decorative columns. Sometimes called barrel play wood, or Bendable plywood. not sure where to get it.

You might consider moving your door back a bit. closer to the center of your body ( center of the door just above your hips ) makes it easier to get in and out of bed.

[theDangerz]

Thanks Terry, ill try to slide it back as much as we can, i know i can easily get 4-5" minimum... that wont put it at my hips, but closer.

Two questions i just realized...
- can anyone who has done the skeleton frame tell me how wide the "bones" need to be around the door and supporting the galley structure? I think right now all remaining members are about 3" wide. can i go smaller and trim more weight?

- also...i see that this door/window unit is fairly common. does anyone happen to know where i can find the proper curve radius at the corners?

[satch]

Me like, sweet design. I used 1x2 (3/4x1 1/2) on all of my frames. You might want to use poplar or another hardwood around the doors/ hatch for better screw strength.
Looks like you are on your way Bro!

[theDangerz]

Me like, sweet design. I used 1x2 (3/4x1 1/2) on all of my frames. You might want to use poplar or another hardwood around the doors/ hatch for better screw strength.
Looks like you are on your way Bro!

Hi Rick, thanks for the support and confidence!
I like the profile too. Not straight up classic TD but certainly drawn from the great old shapes with a bit of an edge maybe.

Sorry, i should have been more specific. Im planning on using a sheet of 3/4"ply but cutting out the voids and filling with foam like this:

just wasnt sure how thin the remaining structure can be or how light i can get away with.

[aggie79]

I agree. That is a great design!

Nice looking little shape. An 10 - 8 inch radius can be done with the proper type of wood. there is thin plywood that is use to wrap around and formers to make decorative columns. Sometimes called barrel play wood, or Bendable plywood. not sure where to get it.

Another option is to use 3mm (1/8") baltic or russian birch plywood if you can find it. This thibn, high quality plywood will conform to tight curves. It took some effort, but I was ablet to "wrap" the 1/8" ply around the 6" radius curve in the lower front of my teardrop.

You might consider moving your door back a bit. closer to the center of your body ( center of the door just above your hips ) makes it easier to get in and out of bed.

Junkboy is correct. Think of your rear as a pivot point. The way most of us enter the teardrop is to sit in the doorway, tuck your knees and legs, and rotate inside. By having the door centered, you can then extend your legs and lay back without having to reposition your body inside the teardrop.

Me like, sweet design. I used 1x2 (3/4x1 1/2) on all of my frames. You might want to use poplar or another hardwood around the doors/ hatch for better screw strength.
Looks like you are on your way Bro!

The 3/4" plywood frame and 1/8" plywood inside and out will be plenty strong enough. It is easier, however, to get a flatter surface with 1/4" plywood so you may want to use that on the outside.

Hi Rick, thanks for the support and confidence!
I like the profile too. Not straight up classic TD but certainly drawn from the great old shapes with a bit of an edge maybe.

Sorry, i should have been more specific. Im planning on using a sheet of 3/4"ply but cutting out the voids and filling with foam like this:

just wasnt sure how thin the remaining structure can be or how light i can get away with.

[theDangerz]

I agree. That is a great design!

Another option is to use 3mm (1/8") baltic or russian birch plywood if you can find it. This thin, high quality plywood will conform to tight curves. It took some effort, but I was ablet to "wrap" the 1/8" ply around the 6" radius curve in the lower front of my teardrop.

Junkboy is correct. Think of your rear as a pivot point. The way most of us enter the teardrop is to sit in the doorway, tuck your knees and legs, and rotate inside. By having the door centered, you can then extend your legs and lay back without having to reposition your body inside the teardrop.

Thanks aggie!!

I moved the door back, although not to hip height. I can go further but the aesthetic when it hugs the fender is less than great. bummer.

I used baltic birch for the interior ceiling of our VW camper a few years ago and it was certainly easy to bend (while nothing as tight as 8")...so ill see if i can source that again locally. have also bee looking into some bamboo possibilities that might work for the skin (and would certainly be easy to bend):
http://www.calibamboo.com/bamboopanelin ... nAodZ1ZVrg

The larger problem (i think) with the back profile is what it does to the hatch...a lot of hatch for very little "awning" effect. Currently i have 2 (easy) options, of which i would likely go with the one on the right (the one on the left is only nice for hauling long items when needed)...


but it got me thinking...and searching, but with no results.
has anyone ever used a second hurricane hinge to get a "bifold" effect out of the door and increase the rain coverage?
This is a rough "sketch, but should give the idea.


Doesnt seem impossible, but im a bit worried about the fact that i dont see it done anywhere else...

[_Ryan_]

First off really cool design! This should be fun to watch with all the great ideas you have.

- can anyone who has done the skeleton frame tell me how wide the "bones" need to be around the door and supporting the galley structure? I think right now all remaining members are about 3" wide. can i go smaller and trim more weight?

In my design I used 3-1/2" thickness for the structural supports. My reasoning was that I would be using 1/2" birch for the cabinetry which would give me 1-1/2" on each side for misalignment and/or added stability. I really didn't know how well it would work until I cut the sides and saw that it indeed provided a good balance between support and weight savings. It was much lighter but also less sturdy, but not dangerously so. In my design the cabinets, wall skins, and roof supports all added a great deal of structural rigidity to the walls, as each element was added the overall strength went up a great deal. The finished product feels like a rock as is much stronger than anything premanufactured I'm sure. Looking back I could have gone down to 3" maybe but that might have cut it a bit close as far as strength with the 3/4 AC plywood.

You will also have to consider that everything you attach on the inside and outside walls (running lights, porch lights, hooks, light switches) will need to be positioned over one of the structural supports so the screws will have some meat to dig into.

Last thing on this subject, DMcCam suggested to me early in my project that I use rounded corners. I went this route and highly suggest the same. They add greatly to the strength and are reasonably easy to cut with a jigsaw/router.

- also...i see that this door/window unit is fairly common. does anyone happen to know where i can find the proper curve radius at the corners?

If you are referring to the door from http://teardroptrailerparts.com, then the corner radius is exactly 3-1/2".

How about the hatch idea on the right but instead of being fixed you could install a hinge on the bottom of the lower panel and create a door to get access to the cabin separately? I've seen trailers like this on the forum. It would also greatly simplify the hatch door construction, and trust me this is a good thing!

Also you might want to consider room in your galley cabinet design for hatch support struts. You will need 1-1/2" of clearance between the cabinets and inner hatch wall. You could also use a wooden dowel instead and avoid this problem.

Good luck!

Ryan

[theDangerz]

Thanks Ryan.

Yes, that's the door (26x32) i was planning. Thanks! My uber-anal brain just couldnt give up on not knowing it was correct in my layout

So im guessing you think the bifold hatch is a bad idea?
If we go with the hatch profile on the right, we will likely add a lower door for storage. thats a great idea!

I was planning gas struts to hold up the hatch but hadnt realized i needed a gap on each side.
thanks for the heads up on that one!!

[theDangerz]

Ive also been thinking a lot about adding a window/sunroof.
Initially this seemed like a bad idea to me and it seems like most campers have moved away from doing this, but after talking with _Ryan_ about his build he would totally do it a gain and hasnt had any problems.

anyone have other experiences or idea/thoughts here?


and if i do this instead of a vent...are there other ways to vent other than a fantastic? are my screen doors okay?

[Junkboy999]

The Skylight is a nice idea, It just need to be watertight. You can vent the cabin without a roof vent. My dream one will have windows on three sides that will open. Solar cells on top so no Fan/vent combo.

For your hatch just make the small one. You do not need the hatch for rain guard or shade. A nice little 4x4 or 4x6 ez-up shelter will save you building time. Only reason would you need a bigger hatch is if you wanted to access to the bottom of your bed area for loading bigger things like tables, ez-up shelters, and lawn chairs. You can install a fabric cloth to the under side of the hatch and the other end to poles to make a shelter. ( need a strong hatch for that )

When in doubt Mock it up. Use cardboard boxes as your wheels to get your height. and make big cardboard sides. Tape it all together. take it apart and store under the bed. or behind the couch. It will help prove to yourself your concept idea first. It will even help with the interior placement of the skeleton areas where light and wires will be needed.

[theDangerz]

We finally found a cheap HF trailer on craigslist...so i guess weve officially moved into the "build" phase.

ive started a build thread here if youre interested
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=56712

thanks again to everyone for all the feedback!!