NT 5X8 trailer on sale (my experience)

[les45]

I was asked by a fellow forum member, Lee Senn, to post my experiences with the NT 5X8 trailer that is currently on sale for $449 with free shipping. In Lee's related post there were a lot of misconceptions about this trailer. It is not the flimsy angle iron version sold by NT at a lot of its stores. Hopefully this post will clarify.

This is an outstanding buy and I would urge anyone who is looking for a trailer to consider this one. I paid $479 for mine about a year ago and the regular price is $529. The free shipping is an additional bonus. The NT web site now has a video that provides more than a single photo. Click on this link for all the details: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200356494

This trailer is rated at nearly 2,000 lbs gross so it will accommodate almost any size or weight of build that you may have in mind. I am a retired engineer with a touch of OCD when it comes to my hobbies. I would say with no qualms that this trailer is as well built as anything you can make for twice the price.

The only down side that I have heard about with these trailers is that the packaging sometimes comes with damage. However, everyone who had these experiences said that NT had outstanding customer service and made it right very quickly. I had no problems as my packages came totally intact. Turns out my NT distribution center is only 100 miles away so that might have helped.

Another recommendation that everyone has is to totally re-pack the wheel bearings with a good grade of grease when you install the wheels.

If you want to see the details of building the trailer and some helpful hints, see my build journal at: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=49333

[LDK]

Hi les45

I have a few questions about this trailer and I was hoping you could answer them for me. First of all I checked out your build thread and I'm really impressed with your build. It looks very cool! I was thinking on build #2 I would use this frame. My first build the (camp critter) is just too darn small. I should've named it (cramped critter)! I didn't get enough info from my wife when I was building it and she doesn't like it so cramped and with only one door so I decided I would listen to her on any future build.
On the NT 5x8 frame are the side rails 1 piece or 2. The Hf frames are a 2 piece folding frame. On my next build I was planning on hiding the frame and I was wondering if there was enough room between the tire and frame for the 3/4" sides to hide the frame? I was wondering if the tires would rub it. I plan on using solid 3/4" ply for my sides. Also, did you place your axle above the springs or below it or can you do it either way?
Thanks

[les45]

Hey Larry, thanks for the kind words. In response to your questions:
1. The side rails are one piece (check the early pics in my journal during the trailer fabrication phase).
2. There is about 2 1/16" clearance between the side rail and the tire so there is plenty of room to bring your 3/4" side walls down over the rail. However, keep in mind that if you are using 4' plywood for the side walls you will be losing 3" of headroom inside your cabin. One of the reasons that I went with the weekender style was to keep the cabin space as large as possible. Also, I wanted the black rails exposed to give some contrast to the yellow cabin paint. I did use some 1/4" lattice boards to cover the exposed deck edges.
3. I installed the springs over the axle per the manufacturer's assembly instructions. I wanted the extra clearance. It looks like you can do it either way, but you probably have to fabricate some special shims or washers if you do it the other way.
Good luck on your build. Feel free to ask questions any time.
Larry S.

[Lgboro]

Unless you are building for off road the "flimsy" angle iron trailers are more than adequate to build any teardrop I have seen. The torsion box formed by the average teardrop is plenty strong by itself. The trailer has only to be strong enough to support the axle. In either case, neither trailer would be beefy enough for off road use. The tongue and its attachment will usually be the point of failure if there is one. Personally, I would rather tow a lighter camper which would be less prone to either failure and save gas and other expenses too.

[les45]

Unless you are building for off road the "flimsy" angle iron trailers are more than adequate to build any teardrop I have seen. The torsion box formed by the average teardrop is plenty strong by itself. The trailer has only to be strong enough to support the axle. In either case, neither trailer would be beefy enough for off road use. The tongue and its attachment will usually be the point of failure if there is one. Personally, I would rather tow a lighter camper which would be less prone to either failure and save gas and other expenses too.

Sorry if the term "flimsy" offended. I wasn't trying to bash that trailer but that is how I would describe the single tongue beam that only extends to the first cross brace and flexes when you stand on it. My main point was that that trailer was being mistakenly compared to the one that Lee was asking about in his previous thread. There are plenty of threads on the forum that talk to this issue and how to beef it up by adding the Y braces and/or extending the tongue farther back on the frame. No question that a properly constructed shell provides the strength to the perimeter frame but you still have to do additional work to beef up the tongue on the NT angle iron 5X8 trailer. My other point was that the NT trailer that is currently on sale was already strong enough without any additional modifications and is a good buy compared to the cost of fabricating something of equal strength.

[WizardOfOdds]

I am a bit uncertain what you mean about the possible need for shims/washers if you place the axle on top of the leaf springs:

3. I installed the springs over the axle per the manufacturer's assembly instructions. I wanted the extra clearance. It looks like you can do it either way, but you probably have to fabricate some special shims or washers if you do it the other way.

Could you explain your concern?

Also, I've seen others note some important considerations if you place the axle on top of the leaf springs:

1- The U-bolts will then suspend the weight of the trailer.
2- Be sure the axle is not bent in the center (to provide camber)
3- There must be adequate vertical clearance for the axle.

On my HF6464, the axle was straight, so I could mount it upside down without negating any wheel camber (because it is zero, otherwise you need to weld new leaf pads to the bottom of the axle). Was the axle on your NT5x8 straight or bent??

Finally, I've had a tough time trying to locate replacement bearings and seals for the HF6464; have you located a source for those on you NT5x8?

[les45]

I am a bit uncertain what you mean about the possible need for shims/washers if you place the axle on top of the leaf springs:

3. I installed the springs over the axle per the manufacturer's assembly instructions. I wanted the extra clearance. It looks like you can do it either way, but you probably have to fabricate some special shims or washers if you do it the other way.

Could you explain your concern?

Also, I've seen others note some important considerations if you place the axle on top of the leaf springs:

1- The U-bolts will then suspend the weight of the trailer.
2- Be sure the axle is not bent in the center (to provide camber)
3- There must be adequate vertical clearance for the axle.

On my HF6464, the axle was straight, so I could mount it upside down without negating any wheel camber (because it is zero, otherwise you need to weld new leaf pads to the bottom of the axle). Was the axle on your NT5x8 straight or bent??

Finally, I've had a tough time trying to locate replacement bearings and seals for the HF6464; have you located a source for those on you NT5x8?

I don't recall the exact configuration, but there is a bolt sticking out of the top of the springs that I assume is used to center the square plate that holds the U-bolts. That plate has a hole in the center to provide for the bolt to stick through. I assume that is meant to keep the U-bolts centered on the springs. If you flip the axle to the top, you would have to remove the bolt or shim around it and you would be losing the centering effect that it creates. I'm not sure how others have worked around this although a lot of people have flipped their axles over to the top of the springs. I kept my axle stock under the springs since that provided the right height for the doors and for towing.

I agree with the three points made about flipping the axle. My biggest concern would be the first one having the U-bolts suspending the weight of the trailer. I would not trust the Chinese made bolts to do that and would get some better grade U-bolts if I decided to go that way.

As to your final question, my NT axle uses standard 1" bearings that can be found most anywhere (auto parts stores, boat shops, and even Walmart). I've read a lot of posts about people having a hard time finding bearings for the HF trailers but I don't recall any definitive answers. I would take my bearings to an industrial bearing supply store and let them measure and find the exact replacements in a better grade than the ones that came on the trailer. I have never had a problem with HF or NT bearings if they are properly maintained (clean and pack new grease during initial trailer assembly and re-pack periodically) but if I ever had to change them out I would go to Timkens or a similar industrial grade.

Hope this helps.

Larry S.

[WizardOfOdds]

Yes, that is a very helpful and clear answer.

I went out and took a look at my HF6464 trailer (which appears to be very similar) and it seems to have the exact bolt you describe protruding out of the top of the leaf spring into a hole in the center of the square plate the U-bolts connect to. Too bad I did not have any thought to take a close look 6 years ago when I put it together - it almost looks like a bolt with the head on the axle side and a nut on the plate side, but I can not tell for sure, If it is a nut & bolt (no weld), it looks like the way to move the axle to the top is to first reverse the bolt/nut in the leaf spring, then flip the axle so the welded flat plates on it are downward toward the top of the leaf and place the square U-bolt plate on the bottom. This way, the same end of the leaf bolt meets the U-bolt plate and no shim should be necessary. Maybe someone who actually did the position swap will reply.

All this supposes the axle is straight (has no camber bend) - you did not mention if you found any bend in your axle.

Thanks for the information, and happy camping!

[Sonoma ZR2]

When it comes to being spring over or under to switch from one to the other if you have a truly straight axle it is as simple for a small trailer as unbolting it and bolting it in on top with the proper u bolts. But if the axle does have a camber bend in it just go down to a parts store and pickup some new spring perches and weld them on the opposite side of the axle. I'm currently doing the reverse to my pop up. I'm converting it to spring over. I'm doing this to improve the angle of departure as to not hit the driveway with the rear of it. I'm also going a couple tire sizes larger and should have a camper to take down to the river and camp without it getting stuck. I got a trip coming up and won't get my teardrop finished in time so I am taking the quicker route to a camp able camper and getting the pop up ready to roll.

[les45]

Yes, that is a very helpful and clear answer.

All this supposes the axle is straight (has no camber bend) - you did not mention if you found any bend in your axle.

Thanks for the information, and happy camping!

Sorry, I missed that part in my response. My NT axle was straight so it could be flipped.

[DoctahDeane]

Hi Larry - I am in the midst of building my 5x8 NT trailer and just have a quick question. Since a sheet of plywood is 4x8, is it ok to simply butt two pieces of plywood against one another on top of the 2x2 frame that is bolted to the trailer frame? In other words, my concern is about the seam, water etc. Seems if I caulk it it should be OK but mainly the question is since the frame is one foot wider than a standard sheet of plywood, how best to get there?

[les45]

Hi Larry - I am in the midst of building my 5x8 NT trailer and just have a quick question. Since a sheet of plywood is 4x8, is it ok to simply butt two pieces of plywood against one another on top of the 2x2 frame that is bolted to the trailer frame? In other words, my concern is about the seam, water etc. Seems if I caulk it it should be OK but mainly the question is since the frame is one foot wider than a standard sheet of plywood, how best to get there?

I cut two sheets of plywood to 4X5 and bolted them directly to the trailer frame. I used wood shim pieces over each cross brace to keep the floor level with the tops of the side rails. The C channel cross brace in the center is wider than the other cross braces and is pre-drilled for two holes. My 4X5 pieces butt together at the center of the wide C channel. I figured the Henry's mastic coating would seal the joint with the pressure of the bolts holding the plywood to the channel. I didn't caulk anything in this area. However, after I bolted the plywood floor deck to the trailer frame, I decided to insulate the floor so I bolted a 2X4 over the joint (using the same bolt holes with longer bolts). That adds to the sealing effect of the joint. Check my build journal (link below) for details and pics.

[bobhenry]

and the 3x4 waste pieces will form your galley wall

[drewh1]

Cool Build and great info. I am on the fence about building versus buying. I am starting to think building is the only way I will get the right combination of things that I want.

Do these trailers have VIN numbers for registration? I think I saw somewhere that 13" wheels will fit.

thanks,

drew.

[les45]

Do these trailers have VIN numbers for registration? I think I saw somewhere that 13" wheels will fit.

thanks,

drew.

They have a VIN tag on the tongue frame and the shipping package includes a manufacturer's certificate of origin. I titled/tagged mine in South Carolina by simply presenting the certificate and filling out a DMV form and paying the fee. Note that the certificate may have to be endorsed by the company that sells the trailer (usually Harbor Freight or Northern Tool). If you buy one in a store, they usually do this as part of the sale. I bought my NT trailer online so I had to take my certificate to a local Northern Tool store and have a manager sign and stamp it before the DMV would take it.
I also upgraded to 13" passenger car tires with no problems. Still have about 1.5" of clearance between the tire and frame.