Cross Bow / trolley / renamed little blue trolley

[Ron Dickey]

I pretty much know what I want for the low part of the galley. Pull out cooler length wise, sink in a pull out drawer under the counter, pull out for the stove with side drawers the pull out when it is open.

It looks like the battery will be in the center behind and below the sink. It seems much heavier then I thought. So the springs will get half the weight each. A tube will come up from the battery to the outside wall and the floor will have screened holes for the air to rise from.

The Trolley top will be one piece on each side and the wood cut from the original top, I hope will cover the top of the trolley. Windows might be round but I am thinking of routing out the outside of the walls and installing a solid pc of dark plastic and have hole or such drilled in the wood to let the light in. I had at one point thought of using Champaign bottle bottoms (I still could). The fan/upper hatch will be at the end of the Trolley back and the cabinet inside rear will left and right with a shoot for the hatch and bellow that a opening to the galley to pass food through in a rain storm. I am researching the possible attachment of solar on top of the Trolley too.

I am still investigating how to lift the rear while camping, how to build the side saddles and their entry units (they might have running boards attached below the doors), The lift for the tung I find made for a single tung make the trailer unstable as it is a Y style ( I am thinking of putting in a center tung to make the tung stronger and it could be mounted there.

The Cross Bow front is having pc's of plywood cut in a curve so when the wood it bent around it the last part will have a curved surface to where it ends on each side it will be smoother. I am unsure if the Luan that I bought is ply-ible enough to make the turn with out cracking.

I need to relearn battery ethics on how to make the battery be charged. I plan to have a hatch on the side of the trailer where outside AC can be plugged in with a CGFI. as I better know where things will go electrically I will hold off on running wires.
The top has already been cut for the arch but the Trolley has not been cut until I have the trolley made.

The trailer does not have shocks so that needs to be addressed too. It also does not have brakes.
Clearance light will be put on the sides front before the arch (top and bottom) and before the rear hatch. Stop light will be usual place as well as top of the back to the hatch along with blinker and more clearance lights.

[doug hodder]

Ron....I really don't believe that you would need the shocks. I'd bet that over 95% of those tears out there don't have shocks on them. I also think I'd build the trolley top onto the body as you go, rather than building it in advance and then mating it up. Just an opinion. Doug

[Ron Dickey]

Ron....I really don't believe that you would need the shocks. I'd bet that over 95% of those tears out there don't have shocks on them. I also think I'd build the trolley top onto the body as you go, rather than building it in advance and then mating it up. Just an opinion. Doug

Thanks Doug, I notice that is the way others are doing it to some of it will need to be pre-made but all it all you are right.
That is part is why I created the
" Trolley Top questions" under " Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques"
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=56057

Thanks for the help
Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I put up one of the walls camped it on and drew where the door needs to be cut. I also looked at where and how the galley hatch will go and will have to get another 4x8 plywood so I can cut both together.

I think I know how to make the door now thanks to Steve from San Luis Obispo and his help in making my last door.

I will need to also buy some higher quality thicker plywood for the hatch ribs. Part of me wants to make the door just one side part two walls so I cam hide wires and light setups and speakers if I want. But if you saw my last trailer you will know I am not one to worry about what others think. I try to make it look good by may not be that skilled. If I can camp in it it will work just fine.

Some times I am tempted to make the saddle bags of cloth because that is what most are made of but that is not very safe from theft. Would look cool.

Upper cupboards are unknown, both inside and out. Inside I have an idea but in the galley they maybe drawers. I have seen and am thinking of using window latches to keep drawers and cupboards closed when traveling.


I did a poll on hatches and got answers of there they latch it
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56613

I am going to do one on bumpers. are you game? see users poll

[Ron Dickey]

bumpers poll
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56798

I find it is alittle like asking people if they carry a fire extinguisher

On my day off I plan to pick up the other wall, I did buy two but I but the roof out of the other. And have more cutting to do on it for the Trolley. I also need to get my cross roof bars, and some wood to start the galley.

The doors on the Box Kite have commercial hinges which stick outside. the door opens like a car door and that will happen on the Cross Bow as well But I am sure about the hinges. I will probably do a piano hinge. Window as far as I know will be the same one of Grants window.

The hatch in the top is still up in the air. I think I will make the hole big enough for a Fantastic fan so when I die (40 yrs from now ) who ever gets it they can put one in if they want. I have some ideas of adding a little overhang to the trolley top like a true Trolley?? it would protect it from the rain and maybe what ever comes down the road.This one has a curved top I am unsure if my skills can go that far.


Slow has a drawer under his trailer and I am thinking of a mud drawer or a drawer to hold a table could go there it's front face could continue the curve under the trailer like in that CAD Drawing earlier one page 6.
Got to get ready for work .... see ya

[Ron Dickey]

this is what Doug Hodder's hinge looks like from the side.
Note the upper line that runs down the galley, so when rain runs down it does not get in the galley as badly. Looks well thought out.

[doug hodder]

Ron, I need to drag the Voyager out tomorrow for a camping trip in the next 10 days. I'll get you some pics of the hatch and the install of the hinge. I installed it so that there were NO visible fasteners. The inside walls of the galley have a 1/2" lip so that any water running off the hatch, does not have the ability to run inside at all. All the weather seal is in the hatch. Doug

[Ron Dickey]

As I said the galley will be the last part of my build that is in part so I can slide in the inside sides and top woods.

Then and only then can I close off the back of the trailer.

Galley I am figuring the height of the counter. location of bottom pull outs and adjusting where the back of the galley is to I have room for the hatch to close. This is when one thinks about thickness of woods for cabinets and swing out shelves, up out shelves,

Location of battery is still up in the air many I find are mounting the battery behind and above the axel welding it to the body. The biggest concern is the fumes (gasses ) from the battery coming into contact with an spark or fire. If it is a contained area!!

There will be cabinets inside the trailer attached to the backside of the galley cabinets. Left and Right a slide through area from the galley to the cabin with a closing door from inside. above the slide through opening will be a slanted shoot leading up to the air vent above.

In the front of the trailer there will be a upper cabinet to hold bedding and that is where the reading LED lights should attach.

I plan to have DC and AC the AC will only be to a small area of the galley. Any other AC will be DC to AC converters plugged into the DC plugs in the wall.

I am working on:
the locks for the doors and the hatch, Lights for outside and inside the trailer, a middle bar to go between the V tong now on it, Figuring out the frame material and surface woods for the saddle bags . and how the wood on top of the trolley will connect to the top. I am thinking of only cutting the width of the trolley from the top and seeing it it will slide up on top. However if I want to have the top of the trolley curved and with a lip this will not work, but I could let the first 3 inches slide up (making a better seam.)
I talked more about the build of the trolley top on the Trolley top under the trolly top subject link viewtopic.php?f=21&t=56057

the floor of the trailer might be stained like in the boxkite. One friend said I should put in carpet, But I have had water in the boxkite and carpet would have to be removable.

I guess these could be seen as the ramblings of an old man!!

[Ron Dickey]

Here are the main parts for the galley. The cooler, the sink I bought for $5 and this stove is the biggest one I have soooo just about any size stove should fit.

This gave me a reality check on where the back wall was and still allow me to have room for my feet inside the trailer.

I am working on finding the wood for the Trolley I am looking at 1" wish I could get it in plywood so I would have several pc's to experiment with if I goofed I guess I could do it in plywood and use that as a template.

[Ron Dickey]

I need to buy the wood for the trolley top and start drawing out the lines in relation to the side where I have the outline drawn
but not just yet cut the side out yet. Because I need to buy a 2nd 4x8 so I can cut two at once.

I have both inside walls and need to put them inside so I can figure out where to cut them hight wise. I am thinking of sliding them so they meet in the middle of the inside wall of the curved front and putting a decorative wood strip there.

Once the trolley is in place I can figure out where the wires can run. They all will start from the passenger side the battery is still floating as to where I will put it. I only know it will be close to the axel. If it sits in the Galley I will make a box that is vented only to the outside of the trailer. The top will be screwed on or sealed so gasses do not escape in the galley area.

I went to a store run by habitat for humanity saw things that might work in the trailer. I am still uncertain as to what door lock I will use. I saw some nice stuff there but it may be gone if I find I could use it later but it got me thinking.

I have been collecting things from garage sales the box with the slides I got today $3 and the plate holder I got a year or so ago from a boat person. the basket match a shelf I have in the Boxkite which I could move over.

I am still search for brake lights to replace those that came with the trailer. LED and amerceable are on the Box Kite and I love them. I am researching other LED lights for other areas of the trailer. I already have several marker lights.

[Ron Dickey]

put a inside wall so I could draw and calculate where to cut it. It will slide forward and be lower in the front so it can make the turn on the inside arch. I however can draw and out line of where to cut the door until I cut the tip and slide it into the arch alining the back of the wall with the end of the trailer where the galley begins.

I am unsure if the galley needs studs nor insolation it will be it's own room separate from the cabin although it might need the insolation for it's food storage. But I could insulate those areas only.

buy not putting in the studs I have a few inches more room. But only inches.

The saddle bags on the side may need support from more then the wall like some inside blocks or "L's" connecting to the frame. Some support can come from under the trailer in the formation of L-brackets.
The lights at the sides that will ride on the back of the saddle may need additional upper support.
picture of the Saddle.

The rear hatch will also need support if I use the method that Doug H. used on his trailer

That being said I guess I will continue the inside the wall studs that I have used throughout the trailer.

[Ron Dickey]

quote from an earlier post.
next steps
1. I should have the top for the front on and attached too.
done
2. Then I can start playing with the front skin, and maybe attaching it. depending on if I need to cut it or not.
realized today the board has to be cut in half so the grain goes up and down so it will bend around the curves without cracking.I added a stud to front ends of the arch because the side wall will be attache to the one it is attached to.
3. Should have the top rails up that the cross bars attach to and the trolley top will rest on.
done for top rail up to the galley and the overhead cross ribs are now dependent on the start of the Trolley
4. then I can clap one side that this side has the design drawn out on it (not cut) so I can figure the height of the galley side wall studs.
not started but door is drawn in ready to cut and the galley is drawn but I have to think it out before cutting
5 the galley can start being built at that point.
once the sides are determined I can begin the galley

There are actually "7 builds" here each attached to the other. but they are group works.
Part 1 is building the main body the main sides, cutting out the doorways. I did not make the left and right side exactly the same. That being said, the galley for all 4 pc's 2 outside walls and 2 inside walls will be sandwiched together and cut as one pc. The doorways the walls for each side will be sandwiched together and cut out. The roof is dependent now on the Trolley build.
The outsides can be attached to the trailer but the insides have to wait for part of "Part 3" to be done to be put in.
Part 2 the Trolley build will use the front and back cross ribs to support it and the 2 center ribs will be attached to the sides of the trolley. now "Part 3" can be started "the wires" and "Part 1" the roof can now be cut around the trolley and attached. Starting the Part 5 the arch will now have a roof.
Part 3 the Wiring for the lights and the fan, inside lights Reading etc. I am considering a below the doors light I can turn on and off. a box will be place somewhere in there so as the galley gets built the wires to that area can be run.
Part 4 The Saddle bags. When the ribs for the galley Ribs are determined added supports will be put in the walls to support the saddle bag frames. It will also be attached to the wheels well that came with the trailer frame. The floor and the back wall where the rear brake lights are attached. then the walls will be cut and attached.
Part 5 The front arch can now be finished a 4x8 1/8th will be cut in half so the grain will go up and down and each side will be cut and attache to the sides and at the center of the front of the arch. Insolation will be inserted between the studs and the inside walls attached then the floor to the cabinet over head in the arch. The attaching reading lights there. and attaching the hanging wires.
Part 6 the trailer wires will be attached and clearance light up high will already have wires put in for them and those wires will be attached.
The rear lights will be attached to the boards on the saddle bag back boards and wires for stop and blinker and clearance that will be behind the galley hatch next to the trolley.
Part 7 the Galley will by then be designed and parts that make it work ready to be put in. lights and locks will be determined .
By that time trailer should be ready to be licensed and hopefully it will not be so heavy they will tell me I need brakes My last trailer I took in as a flat bed.

[S. Heisley]

Ron, I think that your idea of saddlebag fenders would be a great innovation!

[Ron Dickey]

Ron, I think that your idea of saddlebag fenders would be a great innovation!

I remember when I build my first trailer thinking about fenders. I almost got some form a man on the forum who had just stopped as I was about to order. I kept looking at fenders and it made no sense to just put a big empty thing on the sides. So I build my own out of 3 pc's of wood one of which went across the top flat and we used it for putting our shoes on when we entered the trailer. Well we liked that idea and the design came over to the new trailer. But on this trailer I wanted to have a battery full time. I had a place to plug one in but it was in the wrong place. So when designing this one I wanted the battery behind the axle. I came up with the saddle bag in part to replace the box at the front of the old trailer. I realized that putting the battery on one side of the trailer might not work but the Saddle idea remained. The placement of the battery still is up in the air.

Thank you for your kind thoughts on my saddlebag idea.

Oh and i left out in my list of project the Doors. I had help building the last ones so I under stand them better but it still puts a shiver down my spine.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I feel like a teardrop philosopher each morning when I wake I think about
all the 8 parts of my trailer build as one. Each part in it's self is a project that for the most part can be complete 75% my it's self the other 25% is figuring how to join them and make them seamlessly become part of the next part.
Like the inside skins and the outside skins will be cut together for the arch of the galley, But I have decided the studs in the galley will be thiner then those in the cabin which means the inside skins will have to be cut where the back wall of the galley and cabin meet. So the galley walls will be thinner and I will have and inch and a quarter more with. That seem like nothing but it will mean that a slider or 2 will not take from the space needed in an already tight space. Keeping the studs and inside wall means a place for insolation (keeping the heat out in the desert), offering a place for wires to run, and keeping it looking attractive to the eye.

Each part will have to blend seamlessly is a feat in it's self. In many cases a slim long strip of wood on the side could be hiding where two pc's of wood join.


above This is an example of what could be but I do not know if this trailers wood strips are hiding any thing, but they could be.
other wise it is filled with wood putty sanded and painted over.

My trailer like my last will be painted light blue with a green strip. And a white roof. the Hatch could be stained and sealed but you have to keep resealing it each year, as we do on the box kite.

The shape of the windows in the trolley is unknown but as I was figuring out how the cross bars and the side walls co-exsist I forgot that I have to add a bar for the vent to sit on. Other wise I could make the windows on the trolley open and close and insert small computer fans behind them.

I am more like an artist working on a sculpture then a architect building a building. Right now I have only a cocoon and am trying to make a butterfly


I am more building from paycheck to paycheck so my build has slowed down a little.
I am looking for lights for inside and outside, knobs I like for the cupboards I have not made, hinges of several kinds, sliders that fit my needs, and L supports for the saddle bags.