Finalizing purchase

[Bobbymt]

I am getting ready to order my trailer and have a few questions for the experience folks on the board.
We are a family of five and travel with a lot of gear (kayaks, fishing gear, kids bikes). We are graduating from a pop-up and that is the extent of my trailer ownership.
I am looking at a 7x20 or a 7x24.
Question 1: Is there a big difference in maneuverability while driving, general feel, getting in and out of spaces etc. between these two sizes? ld like as much space as possible but do not want to sacrifice too much ease of use. I guess I'm asking how much of a pain in the backside are those extra four feet going to cause me?
Question 2: Assuming my future trailer is properly insulated and vented, will one 13k btu A/C adequately service either of my two size options? I live in south Texas and it gets pretty darn hot here.

Thanks for the input and wisdom guys!

[jwhite]

I started with a 7x16 and thought it was perfect for me now I realize that I should have bought a little larger and I was thinking about selling what I have a build a 7x20.
I found a great 30ft toyhauler and now I am even more sold on having more space and I think it's just something you will need to get used to as far as pulling it.
I don't know if your going to order it but I know I would want 6.6 to 7ft tall so you have plenty of head room.
also a window AC is the way to go and have the factory make the cut out ( a portable AC WILL NOT WORK) and the rooftop AC cost more and will require a larger generator, and the best is a Honda 2000 and mine runs my 8000btu AC fine.
I guess if your plugged in all the time in won't matter, I used 2 layers of insulation and if I did it again I think I would put a extra layer in the ceiling.

[DTCOOPER]

Bobby,
I built a 8x24 Haulmark... I couldn't imagine having anything smaller... I'd love to build a 28-30' one in gooseneck.

About the Insulation- Install as much as you can.. We went with 1" in walls and ceiling, I believe. And my 2 rooftop ACs will freeze you out. And my Suburban RV furnace will cook you out in short order.

ACs - that's a lifelong debate, likened to favorite oil, best gun, favorite tires, etc...

Each type have their pros and cons. My biggest reason for going with rooftop AC units was nothing protruding from the sides or front of the trailer. I wanted the clean RV look, and the rooftop units do just that.
Standard window units are more easily replaced on the road.. And many people have them installed. But they're not "built" for rough roads and travel. Your mileage with that statement may vary. But they're made to be installed in a stationary environment and left there. Mounting a rooftop unit, uses physics to distribute the cold air. Heat rises-cold air settles. If you mount a window unit low in the wall, you're likely to have cool floor area, and more heat up higher. If you mount the window unit up high, see my note about protrusions from the wall. It just wasn't for me.

Good luck with which ever way you go.

Post lots of pictures !!

[jwhite]

When I ordered my trailer they wanted like 1500 for a roof AC so I made the mistake of thinking a portable AC would work and it didn't, so the only thing I could do was to put in a false wall on wheels so I can open and close it and it works great for me.
The other thing was I could put in a wooden screen door, before I bought the screen for your garage and I didn't like it because I had to install it every time I wanted to use it and the wind would blow it around.
I put the AC as high as I could and man what a difference it made, I went from a AC that would only cool you if your sitting right in front of it to after 15 minutes and I am turning the AC down.
and I like it cold and during the hottest days it's 62 degrees inside.
probably the best part was I bought the 8000 btu on sale 165.00 and I can run it with my Honda 2000

[lrrowe]

When I ordered my trailer they wanted like 1500 for a roof AC so I made the mistake of thinking a portable AC would work and it didn't, so the only thing I could do was to put in a false wall on wheels so I can open and close it and it works great for me.
The other thing was I could put in a wooden screen door, before I bought the screen for your garage and I didn't like it because I had to install it every time I wanted to use it and the wind would blow it around.
I put the AC as high as I could and man what a difference it made, I went from a AC that would only cool you if your sitting right in front of it to after 15 minutes and I am turning the AC down.
and I like it cold and during the hottest days it's 62 degrees inside.
probably the best part was I bought the 8000 btu on sale 165.00 and I can run it with my Honda 2000

Your construction is pretty close to the concept I was planning. But in my idea, I was going to build the "chuck wagon" kitchen design in the rear (with barn doors), leave the bottom free to carry two kayaks and on the right top, add a portable AC. From the inside, the AC unit would be recessed in the 18 inch deep shelving per se with the back sticking out similar (but still within the boundaries of the trailer) to yours. Then after use, I will decide if I want to just leave the right barn door open a crack to allow for ventilation or to add a small door opening (in the right barn door) with top hinges to allow it to pop up and allow air circulation. I have seen many ideas in this forum, but not this specific one. I will try and do a 3D sketch soon to better present my idea.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Just to test the concept, I made a small box with 2" around the ac & attached it to the door frame....
then you just open the side door 3-4" when you need ac,
frame can be removed easily anytime or during winter months ...

works great

photo 2-3.JPG (149.39 KiB) Viewed 1590 times

photo 1-3.JPG (104.76 KiB) Viewed 1590 times

Jerry


http://overthetopcargotrailer.blogspot.com/

[lrrowe]

Jerry, sorry. I did see your idea and it is close to mine, just in different sections of the CT. Except I do not want to use the side door for it. With the chuck wagon approach, I can just leave it there and not worry about moving it (except maybe in the cold months). Did you finish your project yet?

[lrrowe]

Jerry,
Does one have to leave circulation to the sides from outside air for this concept to work or is just having the back end of the AC exposed all that is needed. I just assumed the sides needed to be exposed to the outside because that is the way one sees them hanging out of windows in houses.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

YES
you need a 2-3" gap on both sides and the top as thats were the vents are to suck in the air.

it may also suck in some hot exhaust air, but seams to work ok


No .... maybe hell will freeze over before I get done ?

"UNLESS" GadgetMan invites me to his santa workshop

So Far .... I'm still working my little job & buying more junk for the trailer.

[lrrowe]

Leave 2 -3 inches around it huh. Will require a little more time on my drawing board but I can do that. Thanks.
Bob