Old leaf springs - some new photos

[GuitarPhotog]

It looks as though one or more leaves of my right hand (passenger side) leaf springs has started to fail on my 65-year old teardrop.

Two of the individual leaves have shifted to the rear. I haven't inspected them closely to determine the cause, but I suspect that one or more leaves have simply rusted through at the point where they are coupled to the axle.

This leads to two questions: can anyone recommend a source for replacement leaf springs for a vintage 1948 trailer (springs probably of '48 Ford origin), and can anyone offer tips for loosening bolts rusted together with 65 years of rust?

Removing the body from the chassis is impossible so all work will have to be done from beneath and I have neither lift nor pit.

The issue seems to be not new, because I find no shiny (i.e., recently worn) metal under there, but I would like to work toward replacing both springs soon.

I'll try to take some pictures but it's tough to show what's going on.

<Chas>

[coop74]

They make some high tech ones now that are a single leaf, you might consider that. The magic is in the spring rate.

Other then that go to recking yard and get matching pairs from small car.

[CarlLaFong]

All Ford cars and light trucks, from 48 back to the Jurrasic era, had single transverse springs, front and rear. Your springs are, probably, not Ford.

[GuitarPhotog]

All Ford cars and light trucks, from 48 back to the Jurrasic era, had single transverse springs, front and rear. Your springs are, probably, not Ford.

Bummer

OK, how to determine spring dimensions and rate? Where do I find things like standard nomenclature, measurements, etc.?

I learned a lot about wheel bearings here, I'm hoping that I can repeat that experience with leaf springs.

<Chas>

[Z3R0]

I have the same question on length and rate. I'm assuming the most important measurement is bolt to bolt. They are pre-sprung when you buy them (arched) I'm assuming weight and bolt to bolt length and width will give you enough to go on.

[48Rob]

A picture would help a lot... try to get a shot from one side looking at the other side, from underneath of course.

If you will measure from eye to eye, you may find that off the shelf modern springs will work fine.
You will need to know what the trailer weighs, loaded, to get the correct weight range spring packs.
It is possible the original info tag is still present on the axle, may be an aluminum tag, or could be stamped into it.

Get the trailer securely paced on blocks or sturdy jack stands (all 4 corners).
You can then remove the bolts holding the axle, and pull it out for inspection.
If the leaves aren't broken, it could be that the center bolt that holds the spring pack together has rusted and broken in two (common) that would explain shifted leaves.
If that is the case, the springs may still be fine.
In any case, you need to take the spring packs apart to determine the problem.
If they are broken, and are of modern measurement, you can easily replace them.
If they are an odd size, a spring shop can easily make you a new set.

If it is just the center bolt gone bad, you can replace it.
Since you will have the spring pack apart anyway, consider cleaning the individual springs (sand or media blasting) painting, and lubricating them, you will be shocked at how well the trailer rides and handles after "making them new again".

Rob

[48Rob]

Here is a video on how to replace a spring, and one on how to measure one.
I've also included a link on how to just take one apart, and clean it up.

Rob

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Install-Leaf ... ailer.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUepz7MDdqk

http://48rob.yuku.com/topic/21

[Shadow Catcher]

Found a number of links for 48 Ford springs http://autoplicity.com/products/3446995 ... MgodrQYA1A

[High Desert]

Rob's advice is good, it's quite possibly a repairable situation. If the worst case is realized and they need to be replaced, there are spring shops that can make new ones to spec for the application too. Not the cheapest route but not as bad as you might expect to get brand new bolt in parts. Good luck!

[GuitarPhotog]

I took some photos of the springs on my trailer.

Here's the rear end of the driver's side spring. Note the position of the next to longest leaf.


Here's the rear end of the passenger side spring. Note the next to longest leaf over hangs the spring eye.


I think my biggest issue will be getting those rusty bolts loose so I can disassemble the thing.

<Chas>

[KCStudly]

They look pretty rough with the shackle bolts wallowing in divots worn into the shackles, not to mention the thinly worn tip of that displaced spring.

If after hitting the bolts/nuts with PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil) and letting them soak and using tight fitting wrenches or sockets they still give you trouble, "Hey diddle diddle, cut them in the middle."

My opinion is that you will be dollars, time and reliability ahead if you just plan on upgrading to new.

While you are there and have it jacked up securely, consider power wire brushing your whole under chassis and hitting it with a rust inhibitive paint. She will thank you for it.

[pchast]

Have you talked to someone like http://www.eatonsprings.com? Or
ask at one of the many truck centers in your area. They would have
references for spring re-arcing or repair in your area.


Luck with it.

[GuitarPhotog]

My current plan it to replace the springs and shocks, and as much rusty hardware as practical all at the same time.

As for wire-brushing and painting the frame, while it's a good idea, I'm not sure of the practicality. I don't believe I can lift the trailer more than 4-6" in my garage.

<Chas>

[coop74]

One thing you might also want to consider a single leaf to locate the axle and pair it with air bag suspension which might be cheaper as well as let you custom set the spring rate.

[GuitarPhotog]

Well, the suspension (axle, springs, and shocks) are off the trailer. That PBBlaster stuff really works!

I'll have the springs and U-Bolts loose of the axle tonight or tomorrow and can start looking for replacements. I think I might be able to have the small parts sandblasted, and everything else will get wire brushed.

One shock feels as though it still works, the other is just a couple of tubes that slide in and out with no resistance. Anyone got suggestions for how to match shocks to old rusty pieces of metal?

Here's the axle with springs still attached.


More photos as the adventure continues as I get it all disassembled.

<Chas>