Router 101 - bits needed for building and how

[drewh1]

I have another question about my router. Ryobi does not make a router plate or a set of bushings for the router. I would like to cut out oval cabinet doors (like on the Camp-Inn) with the router using a template.

I need a narrow down cut bit (I think) and a bushing to do this. Does anyone know about the universal router plates that accept bushings? Amazon has one but it has very mixed reviews. Are there other options for doing this?

thanks,

drew.

[KCStudly]

Around about this part of my build I got a universal plate and guide collar set for my router (edit - not Ryobi).

I had a machinist at my work add the needed countersunk holes to match the router. This needed to be done very accurately on a mill (CNC or rotary table) in order to maintain an accurate center.

Explained my thoughts on why guide collars are a needed tool here.

Turned one of the collars down so that it would follow thinner templates made from 5mm ply.

Sorry that the info is kind of buried in my build in some pretty long posts, but... well, that's how I roll. Hope you find it useful.

[drewh1]

great information in your build journal - thanks, I am going to go through it to learn more.

[CarlLaFong]

If you're using a template, you should be able to use a flush cut bit with a top mounted bearing.
I have made a few base plates for my routers. Getting one centered isn't that hard. Cut the piece of Plexi or Lexan to size. Mark the holes for the screws and drill and countersink them. Screw it to the router. Put in a bit with a point. You can use a 1/4 drill bit if you don't have a pointed router bit.Lower the base until the bit touches the plate. Reach in and turn the bit by hand to leave a mark on the plastic. Take it apart and use a Forstner bit to drill the larger hole for the bushing shoulder. Don't drill all the way through, just the depth of the shoulder. Then, using a smaller Forstner, drill all the way through for the threaded part of the bushing. Forstner bits are for use in drill presses but, if you're careful, you can freehand them.
Get a set of Porter Cable bushings and Bob's yer uncle

[KCStudly]

Oops! Turns out that it was not my Ryobi that got the collar adapter plate. I have edited my previous post. Sorry for any confusion, but the method is still the same; you will just have to map out the bolt pattern on the Ryobi and have that machined into the adapter plate.

[aggie79]

I change the base plate on my router based upon the bit size. When using a base plate and bushing, I use one of these to center the base plate:http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19081-Router-Centering/dp/B003NE5ATG. I put in a busing with a diameter less than the taper (large end) and lower the router until the mandrel touches the base plate.

Another trick is to make a registration mark on the side of your router and keep the router aligned with the registration mark toward the piece you are routing. Even if the busing is off-center slightly, by keeping the router in the same position, the eccentricity between te bit centerpoint and bushing centerpoint doesn't change.

[drewh1]

I am about 1/3 of the way into my project now and am getting much better with my router. All of the advice on this thread was a big help.

1. The Ryobi is fine for what I am doing, no need to spend more money Though I still may get a speed controller for the aluminum.
2. I bought the Rockler bushings and baseplate. Thank goodness I have a drill press, otherwise I may not have been accurate enough. Works great and now my favorite Whiteside router bit is the 1/8 upcut. Just used it with templates to cut my openings and cabinet doors for the headboard section.

I think the best advice was to buy individual router bits as you need them. I now have 6 Whiteside's, top bearing, bottom bearing, rounding, flush trim, straight cut for plywood and the 1/8 upcut. Probably won't need anymore.

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