FRONT UTILITY BOX

[MontanaTeardrops]

This is how I built my Trailer Tongue Box last August using scrap materials I had laying around.

Since the beginning of my project I have been looking for a suitable front utility "Tongue Box" box for my Teardrop. I saw a lot of boxes in my search, but none that was big enough or shaped right. One day last year I was looking for something in my garage and came across this piece of aluminum Diamond Plate that used to be the flip down end flap on my toy hauler trailer tail gate. I took it off my tail gate because it wasn't needed and it lightened my tail gate up considerably for lifting and I realized that it was about the right size for the sides of my Utility box.

I measured it up and did a little planning and decided to use it as the sides on my box and I would build the back and bottom out of Tar Coated Plywood. I don't have a break, so I did my bending by notching the square tubing and scoring the diamond plate on the inside so I could bend it accurately.
So this is how it ended up. All that is left is to take it to my friend's sheet metal shop and have him make the lid, then I will hinge the lid to the back side to open up and back.
This box will be completely water proof and it will house my 120v / 12v Power Converter, Battery, Propane Tank and much more.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I hope this helps to bring ideas for a box to those who are looking for an alternative to the $300.00 under sized ones you find on the internet. PS : I extended the tongue 7" for plenty of clearance to the tow vehicle.

[RandyG]

Wow, that looks great! I dont think I could have done as good of a job with a brake. What kind of hinge are you using? I would consider putting the hinged side on the side so you can put the box against the cabin without too much of a gap. Think about it after you make the lid to try it out.

[Roo Dog]

MT,

Looking good.

RD

[pchast]

Looks nice. Have you considered how to vent the propane
and the battery?

[MontanaTeardrops]

That's a thought, hinging on the side. Not sure what kind of hinge I'll use yet, but it will be rain and dust proof. As far as venting, I think I'll probably just make a couple of little vents out of Diamond Plate on the sides that point down at 45 degrees, or maybe go to Home Depot and buy a couple of the 1" round aluminum air vents for house soffits.
Randy, I'm open for suggestions on the vent and seal. Looks like in your profession you would have a pretty good idea. I'm one of those Jack Of All Trades And Master at a Couple....LOL
I think I have an easy solution for the seal already. I'm just going to get the 1" split foam pipe insulation and put it on the top edge for a seal. Dirt cheap and easy to replace.

[RandyG]

I am also a jack of many trades. I think that seal would work, you just have to get you hinge at the right height to keep the lid level, and a latch that pulls it down tight. As far as the vent, not too sure on anything, not much experience there. But with it being right behind the tv, the box will be taking the blunt impact of everything your tires throw up. Could you put it on the bottom with the vent pointing to the back? Or maybe some kind of scoop over the vent on the side? The box looks so good it is going to be hard putting a big hole in it.

[MontanaTeardrops]

The scoop on the side in the first pic is one idea I had. Maybe I'll look at putting it in the bottom too. You're right, I don't like poking holes in stuff either.

This should work for a seal if I put the hinge on the side.

[KCStudly]

I like the idea of the lid tilting up and back with the hinge near the rear of the box so that access is not hindered from either side. Just have to put a cap piece along the back so that the hinge is far enough away from the back of the box so that the lid stays open when leaning against the front wall of the cabin (or against a lanyard or folding strut if you prefer). This is how I plan to do mine.

This would be a good place to use a short length of hurricane hinge, or a piano hinge with a flexible rubber strip over it.

[working on it]

How about a stainless piano hinge on the front, with an internal strut rod to hold it open? Sealed as you have shown on front and sides, and most of the rear, except for an inch or two without a seal. The forward motion of the trailer would keep most contaminates out, and a piece of weatherstripping just below that gap would keep water from wicking up the back of the box into it. Of course the opening would vent the battery and/or propane.

[lilgription]

Looks Great. That seal where the hinge is should never leak

[KCStudly]

Wet battery wants vent at the top (lighter than air hydrogen) and propane wants vent at the bottom (heavier than air hydrocarbons).

There are reg.'s against storing propane in locked storage.

From the appropriate section of NFPA 1192 (which is incorporated by reference in DOT and many state regs.):
5.1.6.2 Securing LP-Gas Cylinder Housings.
5.1.6.2.1 Doors, hoods, domes, housings (or portions of housings), and enclosures required to be removed or opened for replacement of cylinders shall incorporate means for clamping them in place to prevent them from working loose during transit.
5.1.6.2.2 Hoods or housings covering valves shall not be equipped with locks or require special tools to open.
5.1.6.3 Valve Access Doors and Panels. Doors or panels providing access to valves shall not be equipped with locks or require tools to open.

Elsewhere there is plenty of info about keeping the cylinders up right so that the safety valves operate properly.

I haven't found anything that specifically regulates venting, but it seems to me that the best way is to mount the cylinder openly or in a shroud with an open bottom.

For me, I want to be able to lock my tongue box, so if I were to haul a propane cylinder, it would be outside of the tongue box.

Haven't found anything against locking the tank to the chassis, just not allowed to lock access to it.

[Nobody]

Good job MT. I built mine also from scrap 'diamond tread' 0.062" aluminum, using a home made metal bending brake that I found online. Used several small pieces of scrap to determine best bending point for different angles. Mine is made entirely of the diamond tread except the floor is 0.040" mill finish reinforced underneath with 1/2" ply. I used a simple 'piano hinge' on rear side & left enough room so it doesn't 'hit' the front of the TD. My box doesn't match the curved front of the TD but it works well for me. I used 'twist lock' toggle/hook latches (from used packing crates) to 'draw' the top down, & a hasp with combo lock for security. Everything except the hasp & lock was 'salvaged' matgerial, even the brake. Weather seal is foam weather stripping, self adhered to inside of top. Through 6yrs & more'n 20K miles it ain't leaked once...

[MontanaTeardrops]

Hi everyone. Wow, lots of great ideas here to ponder over. I have never worked on a project that has taken as much thought as this one is. I really want this Teardrop to turn out nice because I want my friends and family to get into them too. It really helps getting these ideas from others who have built them. Good points on the propane being locked in a box, sounds like I'll have to mount it outside somewhere. I might have to find a way to cover the tank with diamond plate or nice paint. The bottle is only a 4 pound from Home Depot. Any opinions on mounting it right on top of the tongue box lid?
PS Harvey, I love your trailer, I had the same idea with diamond plate around the bottom.

[KCStudly]

I would think on the lid would be a nuisance; every time you need to go digging in the box it would be in the way (needs to be mounted upright in normal position).

Will it fit in a bracket just in front of the box?

[MontanaTeardrops]

Maybe this will work. I can use a thumb screw on one side of the clamp so it will be easy to remove. Or better yet, make a place for a lock on one side.