- maybe raising them 4-6" on one side will works ok ?
What "old goat like me" wants to climb on the roof to manually raise panels ?
I believe tilting would help a lot. And I would not want to have to climb every time the panels had to be lifted or lowered. Too much hassle no matter the age. Maybe a hinged joint on one side, clevis pins or something to hold the other side down and locked. Then a prop of some kind to permit some tilt. Lift it with a "push stick". Probably a good idea if it was also restrained from a gust getting under it and lifting way up where damage could result.
Thinking hat is now on ...
When I saw the reference to 9 amps and 133 volts incoming from the PV panels something occurred to me. Maybe you are aware of this, maybe not. So, FYI... ( Being in Silicon Valley this may not be a big concern. I believe I read someplace in the thread that you are aware that high temperatures reduce the output of PV panels. Another reason to want to try to elevate and cool them.) The opposite is also true; cold temperatures increase the output voltage. Cold mornings are the worst when the sun peaks over the horizon and first hits the panels it can result in a large voltage spike.
If you are running 133 volts operating on a sunny day it is entirely possible that cold weather could raise the voltage to over the 150 VDC maximum rating of the FM series charge controller. Even a short spike can be enough to damage the CC. To make matters worse there is a tell tale in every unit that records maximum voltages. Over 150 = voided warranty.
I have a set of panels with a Voc of 36.1 volts per panel. Three in series provides a Voc of 108.3 volts. This is located in northern NM. In winter the system has recorded a peak of 141 VDC several times. It is not uncommon for the log to show a peak of 121 to 125 VDC in spring and fall. The 141 volts is only 9.1 volts away from a possible electronics fry and a toasted warranty. Well, the warranty is up come spring anyways and since it has not gone higher than 141 ever I rest easier than I did when the system recorded the first high reading.
So maybe watch where you go if the destination is cold.
There are devices that can be wired in to sense low temperatures and drop the last panel from the series until things warm up. Outback also has a string sizing tool on their website that has temperature sliders for highs and lows. Can be handy to see where the tipping point might lay.
And I ran into someone here in the mtns who told me he had toasted an MX60 (previous model) and had to pay for the repair as OB said it was his fault. Now that is second/third hand news and if this was a court of law could not be honored. So I don't know what to believe with certainty. OB should not be faulted too much for that as I have received similar runaround and doublespeak from Xantrex and worse from Morningstar.
Yes, because the battery can supply much greater currents than any PV panel or CC. It is that we are trying to protect against. Selecting DC circuit breaker polarity comes down to trying to choose the lesser of two evils. There may be slightly more arcing when the breaker is used as a disconnect for PV panels when the +/line is connected towards the batteries. But the current flow from panels is much less than the possible current from the batteries. 
always test to be sure. 
