ceiling material

[jmayaa]

As far as the power goes, I'm not real sure at this point.
I was just going to run some 110v lines for a few receptacles and lights.
Most tracks I go to have electric hook ups that I could plug into, and I may purchase a small generator in the future.
I was going to use either a 10 gauge power cord installed in a 50amp breaker box or place a recessed male plug into the trailer somewhere and have that go into a breaker box.
My question right now is if I do it either way, what provisions should be made in the area of the roof vent where I may want to add an A/C unit someday?
Can I just run a piece of romex up there and secure it new where it would eventually hook up and leave the other end also coiled up at the breaker box until I'm ready to install the A/C?
Should I use 12 or 14 gauge romex through out the trailer?
I would seldom use anything heavier than a drill or microwave and a bench and ceiling light.
Should I run any 12 v lines other than whats already there for the outside lights and brakes?
Thanks,
Jeff

[orcadigital]

As far as the power goes, I'm not real sure at this point.
I was just going to run some 110v lines for a few receptacles and lights.
Most tracks I go to have electric hook ups that I could plug into, and I may purchase a small generator in the future.
I was going to use either a 10 gauge power cord installed in a 50amp breaker box or place a recessed male plug into the trailer somewhere and have that go into a breaker box.
My question right now is if I do it either way, what provisions should be made in the area of the roof vent where I may want to add an A/C unit someday?
Can I just run a piece of romex up there and secure it new where it would eventually hook up and leave the other end also coiled up at the breaker box until I'm ready to install the A/C?
Should I use 12 or 14 gauge romex through out the trailer?
I would seldom use anything heavier than a drill or microwave and a bench and ceiling light.
Should I run any 12 v lines other than whats already there for the outside lights and brakes?
Thanks,
Jeff

Completely up to you, but it is easier to run things when it is all apart. I am in the same boat that I will always have power or a generator, but for me, I wanted things to be a little tidier then some extension cords. The step up is to put in a breaker box that splits off your AC power, or you can go the next step (like I did) and get a converter box. The converter box gives you both AC and DC circuits, as well as hook up for a battery and the ability to charge that battery(s). I am running DC lights, and other DC electronics, along with AC power for an air conditioner, compressor, vacuum, and possibly a TV. I overengineered it all because I was in there, and it is easier to do now.

For a rooftop AC, I would run 12ga. For your outlets, 14ga is fine. Yes you can leave it in the walls/ceiling until you are ready, just make sure it is fastened down with grommets, etc so that you do not get any rub through of the insulation. Also, if your roof was not reinforced for an AC unit, this would be a good time to do so.

For DC power, I am not sure I would bother unless you have actual DC accessories or additional lighting that you have planned. I wanted to be able to run lights without the tow vehicle connected, so I had to do some additional wiring for it. You could always lay in AC wiring and run some florescents for work lights as well. I will probably do that, but I wanted DC LED's for the general lighting (for when packing up at night and the like).

Beautiful trailer you have, I am sure it will come along great!

[bc toys]

If you use the 1x6 ideal cut both edges at a 45* cut holes for power and yes you can use 12/3 romex but i over sized mine with 10/3 cord