Solar panel corner mounting brackets spoilers & wire entry

[Esteban]

Has anyone used Instapark, or similar, ABS plastic solar panel corner mounting brackets, spoiler mounts and roof wire entry grommets? If you have what are your thoughts about them?

I've read comments by several people who were very concerned about drilling holes through their roof to mount a solar panel. They needed to drill into roof spars for Z bracket screws to have enough wood to hold well. If you did not plan ahead roof spars might or might not be in the right places. The ABS plastic corner brackets and spoilers that get glued to the roof seem to solve that problem. With only 1 hole needed through the roof for the wire entry grommet there is much less concern for a water leak than with the 8 or more screw holes needed by customary Z brackets.

Instapark corner mounting brackets for solar panels
Instapark solar panel mounting kits on ebay
Google images

Corner mounting brackets for solar panels
Drill-free mounting option, easily glued on with Sikaflex 252, 291 or alike
Durable, UV-resistant ABS plastic construction
Includes 4 corner glue mounts
1-year limited warranty

Product Description
Made of UV-resistant ABS plastic, these solar panel corner mounting brackets are virtually compatible with any aluminum-framed solar panel with a rectangular shape. They not only offer a simple, stylish and cost-effective solution for providing solar panel with a safe and secure placement on motor vehicles, RVs, caravans, boats and roofs, but also support solar panel at its optimal height to allow bottom aeration, thus ensure the solar panel to function at its maximum efficiency. Better yet, a solar panel can be easily and conveniently mounted on these bracket with glue, such as Sikaflex 252 or 291 or alike, no drilling required.
Specifications:
Material: UV-resistant ABS
Size: 6 x 6 x 2 ½ inches ( L X W X H)
Weight: 14 Oz
Color: White
Quantity per pack: 4

cable roof entry grommet

Made of UV-resistant ABS plastic, the Instapark IN-D dual cable feed thru gland is designed for passing through two cables at a time from a solar panel to enter a roof and ensuring that the routing holes are completely sealed against water leakage, and better yet, it can be easily and conveniently mounted on the surface with glue, such as Sikaflex 252 or 291 or alike, no drilling required.

Seems to me some drilling is necessary for the wires to go through the roof. This may be a good waterproof part to do it with.

Instapark ZJ34W Drill-free Solar Panel Roof Mount Rack Rail Bracket Support Kit The ebay picture of the kit shows 4 corners, 2 spoiler mounts and 1 cable roof entry grommet

Made of UV-resistant ABS plastic, the Instapark ZJ-35 includes 4 corner brackets and 2 spoiler mounts and is virtually compatible with any aluminum-framed solar panel with a rectangular shape. They not only offer a simple, stylish and cost-effective solution for providing solar panel with a safe and secure placement on motor vehicles, RVs, caravans, boats and roofs, but also support solar panel at its optimal height to allow bottom aeration, thus ensure the solar panel to function at its maximum efficiency. Better yet, a solar panel can be easily and conveniently mounted on these bracket with glue, such as Sikaflex 252 or 291 or alike, no drilling required.

The corner brackets would seem to mount a solar panel very securely. Their aerodynamic shape would help to blend a solar panel into the roof line better than aluminum z brackets. Roof penetrations and the possibility of leaks are reduced. I wonder if they would be more theft resistant than z brackets? You could paint them to match the color of your roof to help blend in, or soften, the hard looking edges of an aluminum solar panels frame. They come in black or white.

In the Google images and the ebay links above you can see the different shapes and sizes that are available. I wonder if they would reduce air turbulence from a solar collector on the roof of a teardrop very much? Would hope so.

[Lgboro]

I used a through the hull fitting designed for boats. If you built with a hatch you are much more likely to leak there than anywhere else.

[Shadow Catcher]

Yep and used a Perko through the hull fitting. Used 3M VHB tape to hold the mounts, withstood 130 MPH wind speeds. the prep is VERY important for the VHB tape.

[Esteban]

SC thanks for sharing the photos of you solar collectors and mounting brackets. It looks neat and clean. I looked for a Perko thru-hull fitting at Jamestown and did not see one for wiring. Can you share which fitting you used? I seem to remember yours may go through the side wall, not the roof, though I'm not at all sure if that's right (my memory).

Seachoice Cable Thru Hull Fittings part # SCP-17921 from Jamestown Distributors

Cable thru hull fittings are designed to let antenna and electronic wires pass through the hull without letting water in. These Seachoice fittings are self attaching and require no hardware. Each one accommodates up to 2 wires while still maintaining a watertight seal. Installation of fittings requires a 3/4 inch (1.9cm) hole and can only be used on boats with a hull thickness of 2 inches or less. Available in Black or White.

I planned to use a Thru Hull Fitting for the solar wiring. This one by Seachoice is made for wires and will fit up to a 2" thickness which I hope will work well for a 1-7/8" thick roof like I plan.

My roof will have 1/8" plywood cabin ceiling, 1-1/2" high spars and insulation in the middle, and 1/4" plywood on top = 1-7/8" total. Think I would want a solid block maybe 2" w x 2"w x 1-1/2" tall inside the roof rather than foam for the hole this would fitting will fit in/through. With an appropriate sealing compound around the wiring fitting.

Or I may use the Instapark roof cable feed. That is a choice for the future.

[Shadow Catcher]

I used the Perko watertight deck connector and it is under the panel so through the roof. This is set up for 10ga wire and since I am using a high voltage panel that was all I need. No leaks!
http://www.jmsonline.net/perko-watertig ... Mgods0wARg



I imported my mounts directly from China (not available in the US at that time) and was concerned about having enough contact area for the VHB tape. I had a long discussion with a 3M engineer where he did the calculations and told me how many square inches I needed for the load. The mounts have a partially hollow base but there was enough with a safety margin. I followed the surface prep and application specifications for the VHB tape carefully. This is applied to Filon, and the mounts were I would suspect early production and not flat and required sanding to get them flat.

If you do not mind putting holes in your roof (I did) this would be very easy and just run a bead of glue/caulk/whatever to keep it sealed.

If you decide to go this route, get the correct tape and do the prep carefully.
I first drilled tapped and bolted the mounts to the panel (SS security screws) added the tape to the mounts.

[Esteban]

Thank SC for your very detailed information. The link to the Perko deck connector is really appreciated. I put it in my favorites to remember it.

With the roof space I have a UL Solar 12 volt 125 watt panel UL Solar 125 watt panel is the largest one I can fit on the roof. It has two wires (+&-) coming out of the box in the back. Can both of those wires be attached to one Perko deck connector plug? Would have to cut off the MC4 connector plugs to do it thus voiding the UL Solar warranty.

[Shadow Catcher]

Since I bought my panel used (that was how I ended up with a panel meant for a grid tie system) warranty was not a concern and I wired in directly inside the box on the back of the panel. I would talk to the panel manufacture and see if they would honor replacing the MC4 with another connector that is polarized. The Perko is polarized so if wired correctly there is no chance of plugging it in incorrectly/backward. The wires attach with a set screw in the Perko, very secure.

[H.A.]

.

[bdosborn]

Would have to cut off the MC4 connector plugs to do it thus voiding the UL Solar warranty.

Just get a MC4 extender cable in whatever length you need and cut it in half. Then you can hard wire the Perko connector and you don't have to cut the MC4 connectors off the panel.


Bruce

[Esteban]

The typical method is connect an MC4 and length of suitable wire to the factory fitted MC4 leads coming off the back of the panel.
I know, can add extra wire length & not create so tidy a job, But it keeps the factory warranty valid.

Thanks H.A. Its easy and costs little to buy a loop of solar lead wire with MC4 connectors to keep the warranty in force.

I wonder if the need to drill holes in the frame of the solar panel to mount it to the corner braces and mid panel supports/deflctors would void the warranty. If it does I'd probably go ahead with the installation and say "good bye" to the warranty provided I first test the panel to be sure it works ok.

What kind of wire is needed to fit the Perko male plug fitting? One 10/2 or two 10 gauge leads? Maybe either way works fine? My nooobieness is showing.

I looked for a source of 10/2 wire that might work.
Jacketed 2 Wire, 10 Gauge, Brake Wire - per Foot brake cable from etrailer.com
10/2 AWG Gauge Marine Wire Tinned Copper Boat Cable Flat Blk-Red by the ft out of stock at Genuinedealz.com

The cost of the Perko Watertight Deck Connection fitting SC used and the Seachoice Cable Thru Hull Fittings are similar. I wonder if one is better or easier than the other to use? I respect SCs experience and proven solution. It influences my choice.

The Seachoice fitting is said to good for two wires. If I choose to use it I may use a second wire loop with MC4s, whether or not it protects the warranty.

A third fitting choice to route wire from a solar panel through the roof is an Instapark Instapark® IN-DW Double Solar Panel Cable Roof Entry Gland with Grommet & Plug Its designed for two wires.

Thanks Bruce for your reply about using a second loop of wire with MC4 connectors. It would not cost much. Its my understanding that any alteration of a solar panel will void its warranty. If so, then buying a 2nd loop of wire doesn't help if I need to drill my own holes in the solar panel frame to use the corner mounts and mid panel mounts/deflectors. Which I fully expect to need to do.

I'm going cross eyed writing this and trying to get my ideas straight.

I read the UL solar warranty information which includes:

4. Exclusions and Limitations

(1) The “Limited Product Warranty” and the “Limited Peak Power Warranty” do not apply to any modules which have been subjected to:
a. Alternation, improper installation or application;
c. Repair or modifications by someone other than an approved service technician of UL SOLAR

Unresolved issue #1. Warranty. Does any alteration of the panel really void the warranty? Probably need to contact UL Solar for an interpretation of their warranty policy if I drill mounting holes in the frame. Then make a decision whether it matters.

Unresolved Issue #2. Which fitting to use. Choose a fitting to use for routing wires through the roof. Cost differences between the three fittings are pretty insignificant. (This is a decision I can easily postpone.) The deciding factors then become:
a) ease of installation and useability
b) water tightness - leak prevention
c) durability of fitting

[Shadow Catcher]

The one big advantage Perko and also the disadvantage is that there is break in the wire, but there is a positive rubber gasket that keeps it water tight. The appearance of the Seachoice is that you will have to use some sort of caulk/whatever to get a water tight fit.
I have used a lot of Anderson PowerPole connectors and http://www.powerwerx.com is a good source, they also have 10ga 2 wire.

[bdosborn]

Why are you using #10 wire for a single panel? Are you running the wire a long way?

Bruce

[Shadow Catcher]

At least partly out of ignorance this was in the O my what am I getting into with a panel that will put out more than 50 V at times phase. The original controller that was installed in the trailer was a PMW that would not handle it, it is still in there but not hooked up (I am going to get a brass plate and cover the rather large hole)



I was still paranoid about voltage drop, which I did not understand and is so not a concern with that much voltage. It is about 18' from the panel to the controller sitting on top of the battery box.



This has since changed as the battery box for the Lifeline is larger and a Steca controller to use with the Unisolar 18' rollupable panel sits next to the Morningstar MPPT.

Ignorance is curable and if others can learn from mine so much the better. I admitted the side paths I wandered down on the hacking the AC to hopefully help others from making the same wasteful forays. I have about $400 wrapped up in that project $100 being the cost of a very complex electronic thermostat I could never get to play at all let alone well with the AC unit.

[Esteban]

SC and Bruce, I called UL Solar and talked to Mike. He told me people often mount their panels to an RV and sometimes drill extra holes in the aluminum frame and sometimes cut off the MC4 connectors. Neither would void their warranty according to Mike. Changing the wiring in the panels connector box is frowned on and might void the warranty. Mike said to test the panel with a multimeter to check it out, before cutting off the MC4 connectors...if I planned to do so. I described the Instapark mounting bases to him and he said no problem.

He said to expect an actual 132 to 135 wattage output from a 125 watt panel which could produce close to 8 amps per hour. So six hours of sunlight might produce up to 48 amp hours in a very best case.

Mike suggested I use a Morningstar "Sunsaver" 12 Volt 10 Amps Solar Panel Charge Controller with LVD charge controller with a low voltage disconnect. They are $68.00.

Characteristics

Mechanical

Power terminals wire size (max.)
  Solid     #10 AWG / 5 mm2
  Multistrand    #10 AWG / 5 mm2
  Fine strand    #10 AWG / 5 mm2
  Terminal Diameter   0.210 in / 5.4 mm

Power terminals torque (max.)  10.6 in-lb / 1.2 Nm

Weight (unpacked)    8 oz / 0.23 kg

Anodized aluminum case

Marine rated terminals

Epoxy encapsulated

Rated Solar Input 10 A

Rated Load 10 A

CONTROL SETPOINTS

Sealed Flooded
• Low volt load disconnect ........ 11.5 11.5
• LVD reconnect.......................... 12.6 12.6
• Constant-voltage regulation .... 14.1 14.4

(24 V setpoints are twice 12 V values)

25% Current Overload 5 min.

Temp. Comp. (mV/˚C) –28 –56

Self-consumption 6 to 10 mA

Operating Temp. –40 to +85ºC

I was misinformed about wire gauge thinking standard solar panel wires are 10 gauge. Their solar cables are 12 gauge "UL type PV wire 12AWG 90°C Dry and Wet 600V". The wires coming from the panel junction box are 3 ft. long. I plan to install the charge controller inside the teardrop near the battery. So a wire run from the solar panel to the charge controller will be about 5 to 7 feet in total one way (per wire). It looks like 12AWG wire is fine. I'd buy one www.ul-solar.com/15_FT_Solar_Panel_Cable_w_MC4_Connectors_p/cbl-mc4-15.htm and use as much of the wire as needed to get to the charge controller and from it to the battery.

This combo increasingly seems to have (more than) enough power to keep a battery charged close to 100% while powering a fridge/freezer that might use up to 20 amp hours a day and LED lights, etc. I'd be happy to typically harvest 25 to 30 AH a day. I think a group 31 battery with about 100 AH would store enough power to smooth out typical daily harvests and usage. A 100 AH battery has enough reserve to keep things going if there was no solar harvest for a couple of days without draining the battery down to 50%. It looks like an mppt controller is not needed to harvest as much power (most days) as I expect to want and need.

Now a conceptual design for a good solar charging system feels like its coming together.

[Shadow Catcher]

My experience with the high voltage panel and the MPPT Moringstar SunSaver was that we lost a little ground powering the refrigerator, LED lights, stereo XM receiver, water pump and for one night the TV/DVD (July 4th we watched Independence Day). This in a shaded camp site. Had we put the refrigerator in the car while running around it would have given the solar panel a chance to replace all the used current. If the budge will allow a battery monitor, I prefer a Victron for its small size and ease of set up, will be a good addition.