Help me deside on a side profile shape

[working on it]

I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
Danny

can you explain that better. Whats a rabbit ...?

Don't know how to explain it any simpler.
This is what a rabbet looks like on the left.

Danny

That would explain why I could not get the woodworking thing down pat, on my build. I was working under the assumption that the rabbit looks like this

rabbit-in-hat-27972.jpg (41.43 KiB) Viewed 800 times

and the filet like this

filet.jpg (35.58 KiB) Viewed 800 times

Thanks for the update.

[kd5edj63]

I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
Danny

can you explain that better. Whats a rabbit ...?

Don't know how to explain it any simpler.
This is what a rabbet looks like on the left.

Danny

That would explain why I could not get the woodworking thing down pat, on my build. I was working under the assumption that the rabbit looks like this

rabbit-in-hat-27972.jpg

and the filet like this

filet.jpg

Thanks for the update.

Thank you sir. You have been most helpfull in my build.

[aggie79]

I wouldn't necessarily shy away from a curved profile. An angular profile can be easier in some respects to build, but the angled joints can be difficult to make too.

As far as materials, I would check around to see if you can find Baltic or Russian birch plywood locally. The 3 milimeter (1/8") material is very easy to work with. This type of plywood is also approximately 5' x 5' in size, which works well for a 5' wide and/or a 10' long teardrop.

[kd5edj63]

Thanks. I'll have to look a little closer at the thin stuff to see what it really is. I didnt see where it spesifically said it was birch. I know one of the sheets said "underlayment". I spent alot of time yesterday since it rained all day, drawing up plans and came up with a curver front design with a flat roughly 45 degree hatch that I think will work nicely and be easy to build. I hope to spend this entire weekend including friday and possibly monday getting the sides and roof done.
There is so many great rigs out there its hard to reach a design descision

[grantstew8]

I spent two month planning my td and it saved so much time during construction. Trust me the two months I took planning were not by choice circumstances forced upon me but I was really grateful for the time

If you read more of the forum your notice that lots of discussion relating to planning time; I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to start cutting.

It's a load of fun building. Enjoy it!

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Have you checked out the profiles in the Design Library? Might give you a few ideas. Also check out the Hall of Fame.

My first two were curved designs, but my new one will be a modified weekender/rockhopper mash-up. Cant wait to get started.

[kd5edj63]

Thanks for the links. The hall of fame will be very helpful

[kd5edj63]

I think I want to go with a weekender type design. Im wondering if I should go with a "hallow" roof or a solid three quarter inch birch roof. The only thing I might like on a hollow roof is that it could be insulated. Does anyone have any advice on this. I might plan my build one more week before I dive in

[working on it]

I think I want to go with a weekender type design. Im wondering if I should go with a "hallow" roof or a solid three quarter inch birch roof. The only thing I might like on a hollow roof is that it could be insulated. Does anyone have any advice on this. I might plan my build one more week before I dive in

Having a trailer with no insulation and of 3/4" plywood...my answer is "I don't really know". I've only had it out for a weekend, and it was cloudy one day, and cool and wet the next, and cool the third, and I had a canopy overall the whole time.... My plan was to (mainly) keep the Texas Sun off of it; no insulation needed in the Texas climate. I painted it with a reflective aluminum on the top and rear and front sloped roof, to reflect heat away, but have no valid test results to share (it's in the garage when not in the wild). My only test results I have are from heating or cooling it while in the (unheated and uncooled garage). When testing the A/C there, It retained the cool for many hours, even up to 100 degrees ambient; when testing the 200 watt heater, in 30 degree weather, it heated up and retained that heat well. Of course, in the garage, it is not exposed to sun, wind, or rain that can effect it. Prior to buying the canopy, I had bought some insulation for the ceiling,

radiant-barrier.png (140.4 KiB) Viewed 661 times

http://bondedlogic.com/construction-products/ultratouch-radiant-barrier just in case it was needed ($ 20 at Home Depot online), but don't yet know if I'll use it. On the other hand, I did notice the coolness of the A/C being transferred thru the walls, when I left the A/C running to cool my already prepared food items (for that night's camp gathering). In the humidity outside, the walls were sweating. So I bought some rubber-backed carpet (same as on my floor) to block that heat/cool transfer. I haven't installed it on the walls yet, so no tests possible. Just my observations; another is that the 3/4" un-braced roof is still flat, and hasn't drooped in the 1.5 years since it went up, but is only 54"x48". For a larger piece, I would put supports under it (I have room available to do so in mine if necessary).

[Esteban]

When I contemplate building any wooden part of a teardrop I tend to think of pounds of material per square foot (i.e. board feet). I use an estimated .4 lbs. for each 1/8" of wood or plywood. 3/4" plywood would weigh about 2.4 lbs/sq. ft. which seems extra heavy for little (or no) benefit. An insulated roof can be much lighter, more comfortable, and may be less likely to sag than solid plywood. An insulated ceiling/roof also provides space to run wiring for lights, a fan, etc.

[kd5edj63]

OK thanks guys. I found what is a pdf download which I printed of plans for a weekender. Its a design by Mikenchell. Is that an admin on here. I think so. I want to go off of that in concept, with a few changes spesific to my needs (minor changes in design. He used I think half inch sides and quarter inch roof. Seems a bit thin, but what do I know. Its apparently a good design so Im not going to go overkill if I dont need to. Can anyone confirm if this Mike is the same as the admin on here. He would be a go to guy for my build

[Esteban]

Joanne's Desert Dawg Desert Dawg documents her squarish teardrop build very well.

Have you considered a Benroy? GenericBenroyPlans.pdf is pretty easy to build and space efficient.

The Northern Tool 5' x 8' trailer Northern Tool 5' x 8' trailer is on sale again. Northern Tool discount coupon codes are easy to find. retailmenot has one (169800 for $20.00 off)

[les45]

Mike is the head dude for the forum. I copied my weekender from his original design with a few changes. Check my journal at: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=49333&hilit=les45

I tried to provide a lot of written detail on each phase of my build and lots of pics.
On your original question, I would definitely build an insulated sandwich type roof. I used 1/4" ply for my outer skins over standard 1X2 spar construction. My walls are solid 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. Everything is epoxy sealed and painted.

[kd5edj63]

Thanks Les. I will surely check out your journal thread. That rig in your sig looks great. Thats what I want. Something just like that.