Installing RV Windows

[bdag]

Been a while but I'm still trying to finish my teardrop. I've got some RV windows that have an outside rubbery flange. Do I need to put a seal under the rubbery flange or can I just install it in my opening? My home design experience tells me that there should be some sealing tape in there, at least on the top edge.

Help?

Thanks, Brian

[grant whipp]

Do you have a pic of the "rubbery flange" ... ...?

CHEERS!

[MtnDon]

cross section, lock rubber window

lock rubber window.gif (2.6 KiB) Viewed 2598 times

The above is a cross section of what is called a lock rubber. Does yours look at all like this? It is meant to be fitted to a fairly thin wall. Used a lot in heavy equipment. If this is it, it does not need sealants as a rule.

[bdag]

No, this is a single rubber lip at least an inch wide that slaps up against the outside wall. The inside ring screws into the window frame to hold it in place. The window has drainage slots in it but I don't know how much I like letting water getting into my window frame if I can help it. The cross section is similar to the pic at http://www.busrvparts.com/images/RV_Cla ... _small.gif. Yes, I know that picture shows exterior seal tape. Just didn't know the necessity or alternatives for it.

Brian

[bdag]

And likely I'll just goop a bunch of silicone caulk on the top and side flanges as well as a thin bead around the top and side edges once it's installed.

Brian

[doug hodder]

I'd think I'd find out the manufacturer and contact them to find out what is the prescribed method of installation, or at least put up some pics of the item in question for a better answer to your question. A big wad of silicone isn't always the best method and if it doesn't work..is a major issue to remove. FWIW. Doug

[bdag]

Fair enough. Alrighty, here's my door:



Here's the window with the flange:



Here's the window partially inserted into the opening:



And here's fully pushed in (but without being secured). There's still a bit of a gap:



From what I know about construction, water will get in. WHEN (not if) it gets in, you need to mitigate it. You can also control it. Don't let it in the top, hence wanting to caulk the top and sides of the window. Especially the leading edge of the window where highway driven rain could get in. Leave the bottom uncaulked so that the water can get out. I was thinking about installing some sort of moisture barrier on the inside edge of my window opening as well. 1.5" single sided sealant tape of some sort?

Window mfr is Komfort and there is something that looks like "Kinro" on the window lock.

Brian

[bdosborn]

I used butyl tape on my windows, it looks like it would cover the gap in your window. I don't like silicon caulk as it's extremely hard to redo. Nothing sticks to silicone, including silicone. You have to meticulously strip every last bit of it if you ever redo it and its a PITA to get off. I installed a window crooked and had to redo it. Not a problem with butyl tape, just pull it all off and do over. I'd use acrylic caulk if you decide to go hte caulk direction.

Here's my window with the butyl tape before I trimmed it flush. The butyl will flow for awhile so I waited a week or two before I cleaned it all up.



Bruce

[bdag]

I've got a huge roll of butyl tape from Frank to install my roof vent with. I'm sure I'd have enough left over to do the windows. Seeing as I've urethane'd every last exposed surface, should I scuff up the window well a bit or will the butyl tape stick to it just fine? My understanding of butyl is that it sticks to everything and once it's stuck, it's stuck!

Brian

[bdosborn]

You can get it off most of it with a putty knife. Then I roll what I've scrapped off into a ball and you can use it to remove the stuff that didn't come up with the knife. I tap the ball against the remaining butyl and it sticks to the ball better than the wall. I haven't ever prepped the surface for the butyl, just made sure it was clean.

Bruce

[bdag]

Not sure how I mistook it but apparently what I thought was a hard rubbery flange is actually metallic in nature. Quite rigid. Probably won't seal well on it's own...

Brian

[grant whipp]

Some folks are confusing Butyl Tape and RV Putty Tape ... what Bruce used is actually RV Putty Tape and is, IMHO, what you should use. As Bruce said, you can trim it with a putty knife and it cleans up easily. If you get and use the black or grey putty tape and install it properly, it WILL NOT leak, period! (I know of windows and roof vents that I installed 30 years ago with this stuff that are still water tight.) Butyl Tape does NOT squeeze out and is not nearly as pliable as the RV Putty Tape ... it also needs to be trimmed with a razor knife.

Please, please, please do NOT use silicone when trying to seal anything on a teardrop, unless it is in the galley area ... as others have already said, it is a major PITA to remove. Yes, properly prepared and applied and cleaned up, it is a good product, but darn few people know and/or are willing to go to that much trouble.

Continued Good Luck, and as always ...

CHEERS!

[bdag]

Thanks for the clarification Grant. I'll get me a roll of RV putty tape. If memory serves me I've sealed all the cracks behind my baseboards (in my house) with silicone caulk. I DO plan on at least running a bead of the silicone on every interior joint for draft-proofing, and then putting trim over.

Thanks for all the advice,

Brian