Father/Son Tear Build

[jgrote]

Since my build is officially underway, I figured I would go ahead and get my build thread started too. Otherwise, things can get ahead of themselves! We are starting with a HF 4x8 1195lb frame, that will be getting a few mods. Most importantly, it will be fully welded AND bolted together. Tonight we got the front half of the trailer assembled and squared up. (kinda) Now for my first of many, many questions: It is out of square by about 1/32" on the diagonal. Do you think this is close enough? With all the flex in the thing, I can't imagine it needs to be much closer. If you've found it to be a problem, let me know and I'll loosen it up and try again.

[KCStudly]

To be honest I can't tell if you are kidding in a bragging sort of way, or if you are dead serious!

Either way 1/32 inch is plenty good enough for the frame.

I try to keep everything as accurate as I can, sometimes spending more time to do so, but for most things even 1/16 is plenty good enough.

The only things that might need to be held to tighter tolerances are glue joints on wooden structure, and for finish work like cabinets and trim.

Really it comes down to how important the dimensional accuracy is to the strength integrity (will the joint fit well enough for the glue and fasteners to achieve full strength?); the on going build requirements (will a bad dimension create a domino effect of poor fits or complex adaptations to get good fits?); and aesthetics (can you stand to look at it and would you be proud to show it off?)

Strength of your frame won't be affected by 1/32 tolerance. Building up from the frame you will have plenty of opportunity to maintain this or tighter tolerance (if required), and if you stand back a little you will never be able to see 1/32 out on your frame, so it must be okay visually.

I'd say you re good to go.

p.s. If you had included a pic I would have said, "it looks good from my house".

[KennethW]

I would skip on welding after you mount the floor on the trailer it becomes a lot stronger. If you weld you should clean prime and repaint so the frame doesn't rust. Just my thoughts. Make it fun for your son and you both will enjoy the build.

[jgrote]

KC, I was actually being serious. In my business life, fractions of a mm matter. I have a hard time letting things like that go. But.... I know it will move around a little when I weld it up. So I'll go with "looks good from your house". After the trailer is built, but before the start of the camper part, it will get a generous coat of bedliner. It's fairly cheap and can be painted on top of just about anything.

Kenneth, I'm welding it more because I can, and have the tools to do so. (And it makes a good project to teach my son to weld. My only problem now is finding welding gear that'll fit a 7yo.) My wife is going to murder me by the end of this.

Photos to come...

[Micro469]

[quote=" My wife is going to murder me by the end of this.

Photos to come...[/quote]

This I gotta see ..........

[len19070]

Send your wife out shopping or something.

There's nothing like a Father/Son Project. He and you will remember it for years!



Same Kid, Same Trailer 20 years later.



Happy Trails

Len

[jgrote]

Got to work on the trailer a little bit today. 3-4 hours seems to be about as much time as the kid is willing to be in the garage. The frame is built and the halves are mounted to each other. The leaf mounts are in place and the leaves are mounted. I couldn't do the tongue because my son built a cart to roll himself around the garage out of the parts Here's where we're at now.

[jgrote]

Step one is finished. (sort of) I wanted to build the trailer to the mfg specs before modifying it any. It's hard to get things covered under warranty if you mod them. The wheels are only on temporarily because I wanted to be able to roll it around the garage. When I get my new seals I will pull them off and repack the bearings. I will also be fully welding the corners, welding the nuts to the bolts everywhere else, and redesigning the tongue a bit. I am designing a removable tongue for easier storage. And of course I'll be mounting the back to the front. I think I'm going to have to replace the ball mount thingy too. I can't get the handle to raise up. Now it's time for lunch and chores...

[KCStudly]

Check for the adjuster nut on the under side of the coupler tab. It will need to be adjusted to fit your ball correctly. If it is too tight from the factory, it might prevent the latch from lifting; it is an over toggle type of latch so it needs enough range to pull up before dropping down, and the spring is what keeps the ball shoe tight despite the over toggle giving back a little upon latching.

[jgrote]

Thanks for the advice. It looked adjustable, but the nut is captured by a bent piece of metal. I'll look into it tomorrow. I got my gas filled for my welder today, so tomorrow I will melt some metal. I'm no good at it, but welding is sooooo satisfying. I did a little research on materials for cladding the outside and found that I can get 20 gauge Al in 4'x10' for $80. Does that seem reasonable? Since it comes in 10' I think I might make my tear a little longer than 8'. I have a week to decide before I need to start making my floor.

[citylights]

found that I can get 20 gauge Al in 4'x10' for $80.:

4x10 sheets of 0.04 thk aluminum are $53 where I am. I just picked up my last sheet and a couple pieces of 1-inch aluminum angle today.

[MrMatt]

I have a HF trailer and I found that sometimes when its not in use the retainer pivot can come unseated from its pin. You can feel it under there. It caused me hours of headache and now I can reach under there with my hand and flip it into place without looking. It doesn't seem to do it often but man its an pain in the butt.

Looking forward to watching your build. I'm considering welding the HF too.

[jgrote]

4x10 sheets of 0.04 thk aluminum are $53 where I am. I just picked up my last sheet and a couple pieces of 1-inch aluminum angle today.

I do miss being able to buy metal at good prices. I had a place in FL that was really, really cheap. No such luck here in Denver. I've spent the last hour or 2 finalizing the shape of my tear. I have to say I'm pretty happy with it. I would post a pic of my drawing but that would ruin the suspense. I decided very early that I didn't want to follow a plan, copy a shape, or steal something directly from others. I want it to be MY design. (and it is) I'm sure it borrows from many others, and is probably similar to many; but my design came from sitting down with graph paper and a pencil and drawing arcs until I was happy. I am really excited at the moment. This is always a fun time in a project like this. Good night guys and gals, and thank you all for the insight, help, advice, and encouragement.

[MrMatt]

I'm down in Colorado Springs. Once you are a bit further along you might be able to get me up there for a day of labor, of course there will need to be beer!

[Roo Dog]

Jgrote,
Steel clad Tear in the picture. Sign grade prepainted.No signs of rust after 2 years, lives right on the coast and gets a fair bit of salt on it. Just a thought.
Black sections are powder coated diamond pattern ally.
RD