1. Will these tires be perfectly fine at higher speeds considering the fully loaded trailer will be under 800lbs, preferably under 600lbs? If not, where should I be going to get new wheels and tires?
2. The trailer sits relatively high with the leaf springs holding it up. Would it be a worthwhile purchase to get some torsion axles with the goal of making the bed of the trailer sit lower?
TPMcGinty wrote:Is the axle attached on top side of the leaf springs or on the bottom side of the leaf springs? I personally wasn't comfortable with the stock tires that were on my store bought trailer so I changed them. I bought some trailer wheels on eBay (zero offset and same bolt pattern) and got some tires from the local tire shop. I saved the stock tires for a spare. I figured if I had a flat, they would hold up long enough to get the tire fixed.
Krusty wrote:It's currently attached to the lower side of the leaf springs. I can attach them to the top to lower the bed a couple inches but that would leave little room for movement of the springs. I'd probably have to cut out a notch in the supporting bracket to give it more room, which may impact the overall strength of the frame.
Krusty wrote:This is what I was looking at for a possible axle replacement.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200335738Some thoughts: Will your HF hubs & bearings fit the half axles or will you have to buy new? Mounting would require a plate on both sides attached to the side rails & one of the cross members. Half axles require alignment & keeping them in alignment. Those axles have a 45* down start angle. How much does that lower the ride height? Also, 45* down is not the best for a smooth ride on a lightweight trailer. (The start angle on Flexiride half axles are adjustable, but they are more money). On either the Northern Tool or the Flexiride half axles the distance from the side of the trailer to the hub face is about four inches, which limits the tire size, an issue many others on this forum have addressed with wheel spacers, offset wheels, replacement axles, ect, ect. The 1000# load rating is a bit too high for a smooth ride on a 600#-800# trailer (IMO). You can't add brakes if you wanted them. (BTW, the #8 Dexter can be ordered without brakes for about $280., but with the brake flange mounts if you wanted to add brakes later).
Here's what I'd be looking at for tires:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200330217
The ST tire is rated for 65 mph maximum & is supposed to be inflated to 35 psi. Not much of an improvement in speed & not conducive to a smooth ride.
Would both of these items work on my Harbor freight trailer? I'm assuming I'll have to do a little cutting to get the torsion axles on. Any advice on that?
Would the 13" tires be advisable to help with a smoother ride and allow me to safely drive at normal highway speeds?
I may sound like a naysayer, but that is because I've read so much on this forum of hard work, anguish & money spent modifying what is basically a utility trailer meant for the occasional short run fully loaded at low speed for short distances & most likely pulled by a truck.
Again, the reason for suggesting the #8 Dexter is because (IMO) it resolves all of these issues for usually about the same amount of money & a lot less work. And, the larger (14-15") good quality radial car tires which can be run at a tire pressure that matches the load (e.i. low pressure on a lightweight trailer) mounted on aluminum trailer wheels makes for smooth & safe towing in my experience.Fred
Krusty wrote:Got a link to an appropriately sized dexter axle and some 4 lug wheels and tires?
TPMcGinty wrote:Krusty wrote:Got a link to an appropriately sized dexter axle and some 4 lug wheels and tires?
If you are going to pay all that money for a new Dexter Axle, get one with 5 lugs. 5 lug wheels are more common especially when you go with larger wheels and tires.
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