Kristie,Welcome to the forums! BTW, you've come to the right place because---collectively---
we know just about everything about designing, making and using T&TTT, so research the various forums and personal galleries for the collective insights/wisdom/abnormal shortcuts and techniques.
I'm just a lowly (+ or -) 1/3,000th of this collective, but here's my two cents worth:
1) Metal = weight. Aluminum skin weighs a lot. The aluminum skin added hundreds of pounds to my Round Tail trailer. My 12' all-aluminum cargo conversion trailer weighs 1,800 to 2,000 lbs. depending on the planned duration of the trip. (See my ALBUM) If you really want to reduce the weight you could build a "foamie" or a single-skin teardrop---and carpet the inside walls and ceiling. I suggest 3/8th inch MDO plywood. It's smooth, Kraft paper faced (one or both sides), paintable with silver automotive paint to look like aluminum, and
really tough...like on this one I built and will be using on my next build:
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=964&image_id=65437 (Only the diamond plate is metal, super thin and light aluminum.)
2) If you weld up your own chassis, how much chassis the trailer has determines a lot of the weight. See
angib's minimalist design ideas in the MEMBER DESIGNS forum:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=34755.
3) You could start with a 5' x 10' aluminum
utility trailer for both a big head start and weight savings.
http://www.whitespruce.com/2012-mission-trailers-5-x-10-all-aluminum-snow-or-atv-trailer-new-snowmobile-ak-i256837 4) Too many ammenities become heavy. (Plumbing, microwave, refer. It's camping.)
5) Radical suggestions: Resist the temptation to go high tech, like using Catia, CNC, et al. Design it on the back of an envelope. (Ouu!) The brain of an architect is a super computer after all. You don't even need the envelope. Draw directly onto the trailer, but have an eraser handy. (
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=964&image_id=56531) Plus, all you need is a jigsaw, a Japanese back saw, Gorilla glue, bronze-silicone ring shank nails (every 4"-6") and a smooth-faced hammer. Use harder, clear-grain wood, not soft, knotty, warping lumber. Outside the box, varnished rawhide lacing is a joinery technique that we have yet to try. You could be the first. Zen boatbuilding is good. Personally, I like incorporating driftwood as shelf supports. No FabLab here.

On the other hand, IF you are totally into aluminum, CAD-CAM, lasers, etc., you could try to top the Rosewell:
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=64242...which is the Mt. Olympus of T&TTT, IMHO.
6) Trailer brakes for sure! Love them. Wouldn't leave home without them. Lifesavers
7) My wife drives a 4-cyl Forester too. I wouldn't tow more than 750 lbs behind it for the transmission's sake. (Assuming yours has an automatic. Clutch, not a problem.) The fan blades inside the torque converters of small automatic transmissions tend to come apart from the fluid back pressure when down shifting with a load on.
#8 Chemicals (including glues) off gas. You're sleeping in it. Careful.
Lastly, be sure to post photos of your progress (to keep us creatively stimulated) and use emoticons to convey your physical and/or emotional state (to make the text alive, as it were...gives us something to empathize with you about).
You're about to embark on a
very fun project.

Prem
P.S. My son got his masters in architecture at UM last year.
My goal...
_____________________________________________
...is to live in a trailer.