Max Headroom, A Pop-Up Benroy, planning

[Junkboy999]

I could not help my self. I had to pick up a few items off Ebay. A Max Headroom Mug and bumper sticker for the camper.




But of course this leads to another problem. I did not design in a bumper.
Ha hahaha
If I make a bumper the drop down bottom section of the hatch will hit it and not fold down flat.
Back to the drawing board.

[Junkboy999]

Hey all

Well I been hard at it again working on my design. After checking out a lot of trailer at the local trailer shop it looks like I will be hard pressed to find Tires, Axles and and Fender setup that will stay under 8 inches wide. The design is changing again to allow for a 9 inch fender with 2” of the fender inside the TD shell. This will make the trailer 5 foot wide + 7 on each side for tires and fenders. Now a total of 74 inches, fender to fender giving me 3 inches clearance each side so the trailer. I hate only having 80 inches between my house and my neighbors fence. I think It looks better with the fender going under the camper a bit.





I believe I finally solved all my worrying about water getting in the back window. Here are three more pictures of the rain gutter. First one shows the shell in the down position and the back window folded up. the rain gutter is the yellow colored area. A top plate attached to the shell of the camper will cover the gap while the camped is closed.




This picture is the shell up and the back window in place. A heal on the outside of the window frame will seal and hold the shell up and lock it in place.






Here is another picture that might make more sense.

I dare water to get in. I Double Dog Dare water to try to get in!

[Junkboy999]

I redid the hatch a well. I not going to have the two part hatch and just go with a standard one. I will, how ever, be over thinking it as usual just to stay with the idea of the “ Make it harder to make”.

The side roof trim will just run all the way to the back of the TD and the hatch will be cut out of the middle area. The hatch is going to be aluminum framed, insulated and skinned with aluminum to keep it light. The H hinge will overlap the hatch opening by an inch and a one inch aluminum strip will be riveted to the side to stiffen up the aluminum. Any water the hits the H Hinge will just run to the side and follow the trim to the ground. A 1 ½ inch strip will attach to the hatch itself to help stiffen the and protect the edges as well. I plan on placing a U channel to catch any water the gets and allow it to drain out the bottom.


Hatch closed




Hatch open

[angib]

Keeping water out of the simple joints, like the one shown, isn't the big issue. What gets harder is how to seal the vertical joint between the back window and the pop-up top.

And then there is the real nightmare - which is how to seal the point where the vertical joint meets the horizontal joint.

It's terribly tempting to think that water flowing down a vertical joint will never try to get inside, or that a single point where two seals meet doesn't need sealing, but rain water has a nasty habit of not knowing that it isn't supposed to do that.

There is nothing, but nothing, that rain water likes half as much as dripping on bedding and it's willing to run uphill to get chance to do that.......

Keeping the rain gutter clear may be a longer term problem - can you access it directly to wash it out and remove debris?

[jonw]

Hi Terry -

Your hatch hinge design will allow water running down the roof (when the hatch is open) to flow inside your galley. Don't ask me how I know this...

You need to divert water running down both the top of the roof and the open hatch off to the the side. This is why hurricane hinges on most TDs extend a little over the side of the trailer moldings.

Also, maybe it's me but I don't see how your popup seal will work both raised and lowered and allow it to be lowered with the molding lip you have shown.

Thanks.

Jon W (your Dam Gathering campsite neighbor)

[Junkboy999]

Jon.

Was yours hatch like this. I’m sorry, I must of miss that at the Dam Gathering. Ha haha and so did you. Ha hahahah Sorry just had to. Good hearing from you again.

Grant did a few test on types of seals that can be applied to the outside of the H hinge and but against it. As the hatch lifts up, these seals get compressed in between the hatch and the fixed part of the hinge making it even harder for water to get seep into hinge. Ron post the link to those test in a thread but I can’t find them now. It is still a work in progress and I’m sure it will be redone a bit more.


Angib

Ya you are spot on, if I’m using the English slang properly.

As I posted earlier post, water will be water and it will get in if it want to. The vertical seals were a bit tricky. My first drawing I just drew a channel. I ran into the problem that no manufacturer made that size U channel. So after searching the Net I found a few good sites that listed all the most common U channel made and reworked my drawings.

It is hard to see what I’m looking at from just one picture of a small section of the camper. Here is an exaggerated example of how the seals will work. The back on the camper will have a rain gutter that goes from side to side and also continue down the campers. The vertical channels act as a guide as well in the raising up the camper. The back of the camper roof at the point of the opening, is already starting the gentle slope of the benroy design. As long as the camper is level or a bit tongue up water should go the other way. The green part ( the Lip ) is connected to the shell of the camper and the window will but up aginst it as a seal. Any water that gets to the seal strip on the window will run down and drip off of the bottom into the channel. Stopping most of the water is the plan the rain gutter is dealing with the water that does get in.








The picture with the arrow show where water that might get in and where it will go. The LIP is turned invisible ( clear ) but I outlined it in yellow lines. if water gets in between the seal in the lip it will just drip down. The bottom of the window also has an angle. Water will have to run up hill and past another seal on the bottom before coming in the camper.




With the top up and the window not yet in place, the gutter will be easy to clean out and the side as well. I plan to put in expensive stereo speakers, a DVD player and a TV under the gutter. They will soak up any water that gets past the gutter. Giant expensive Electronics sponges.

[Junkboy999]

Jon

The picture I loaded did not have the top seal visible. ( I loaded another pic ) There is an aluminum plate attached to the top of the shell, it will hang over the gap between the two halves of the TD when the top is down. There will be a seal on the bottom of that plate.


On your hatch, where did you guys find water coming into the hatch.


Angib and Jon.

The two vertical place where the back window comes in contact with the lip there is a seal. Any water that get in that area just runs down. The trick here is I do not have a place where the vertical seal meat the Horizontal part of the camper. They just stop above the rain gutter about 1 and ½ inch below the level of the back roof. The water should just stop, start collecting as a drop and just drip into the gutter. There is another seal on the very back on the window frame that acts as an Air seal, keeping cold air from coming in and sucking the drop of rain back and up over the gutter.

This is why I have redone this part of the designs 4 or 5 times. One seal all the way around the back window would not work because of the different area of contact or depth. So we’ll just have to see if 3 seals are better than one.

[Ron Dickey]

You do amazing work.

when you add ropes and pulleys you add weight. On a flat surface it is not much but when you start pulling up into any mountains that is when you feel it.

There are many trailers with simple flip ups that do about the same.

Andrew offers one here this is not a full flat up but I have seen several that do it on both sides.
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear48.htm
simply using hinges.
gallery/image.php?image_id=79405
this one may way as much but it could be just pushed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9KcZXTVss8

I understand what you have come up with and admire it. what would you make the pulleys out of plastic, aluminum, or other light product? The rope nylon, this cable?
and the extra wall of foam core, or fibergalss?

Keep drawing your doing wonderful work
Ron Dickey

[GreenViking]

So how is the Max Headroom project doing? Anything new?
Wishing Best!

[S. Heisley]

When can we expect to see sawdust on this marvel?

[Junkboy999]

I got a used welder and it lasted a day. So i still need to learn how to weld. Hoping to get started on the frame this year but been busy doing other hobbies and projects for everyone else it seems.

Slowly it will get moving.


But on the + side, I added 7 more states Little Dottie and I camped in to my map this year.

[OP827]

Did you consider changing the small back wall from being hinged on the lifting roof to be hinged on the bottom? Could that simplify the water seal?