Grits,more work getting done

[Mary C]

The shelf will be held on one end with legs and the other end will be resting on the end of the TD floor. I knew I would have to have legs support under the part that "Hangs out " I just asked for some ideas on the hinge. my neighbor suggested that I use a short pipe through a hole in the floor and the shelf and use a bolt through it with washers on both ends to hole it all in place. then make angled bars 1x2's to go at an angle to the back bumper it should work. remember I have nothing else to put hinges on the walls are just foam. This will work, found an old cabinet door up in the barn a little warp but will work I am going to clean it up and put half round around the edges and wish me luck gotta find the parts for the hinge, I know what you mean and I want something that will be safe and work . I will post pictures as soon as I can.

Mary C.

[S. Heisley]

You know what you want and are smart and determined.
You'll git'er done!

[S. Heisley]

Here's another idea: Use a small piece of pipe that has thread ends on it and get a couple threaded pipe caps to put on each end. Drill your hole just big enough for the pipe to come up through. Cap the underside of the pipe, and, after you bring the pipe through your hole, cap the upper side so that the pipe can't fall or pull out. Then, use one of these on the underside or edge of the swing table:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman- ... 72?N=c2go#

If done right, the cap should not only keep the pipe in place but also keep the gate hinge piece from coming off.

Okay, so the above example may be a little on the big side (and it's a 5 pack), probably overkill; but, the next time you go to the hardware store, take a look around and see what you can find to use (if you don't already have something in the barn/shop that will work.) ...Or, look online.

Another idea is to use a U-bolt to attach to your trailer floor/countertop, slipping a small pipe-style hinge onto that.

I'll stop driving you crazy now.

[mezmo]

Hi Mary,

What you want to do is straight forward and doable as you say. Just make
sure the pivot corner is strong and secure enough. It sounds like you have
the end(s) support [TD floor and folding leg] all taken care of.

Since you are still in the design phase, take a look at Bob Henry's Chubby's
swing out galley counters. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=18699
That galley is my all-time favorite for functionality and extra counter space !
If you wanted, you could only do one swing-out instead of two, or just do a half-
width swing out. It just depends on your needs.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Mary C]

Norm, unfortunately I do not have wood sides therefor, there is no way to obtain a top leverage pivot point for any type shelf. the sides are foam. the only secure place for attaching is the floor, a slide out would cut the room I have to have in order to reach things in the galley. I am short. I am not putting heavy weight on the shelf, I just needed the suggestion of a way to have the shelf swing out. it is not a box just a piece of flat ply wood. so instead of hinge I guess I should have said a "pivot point hinge" but my friend said that since i got the idea, now i need two slick surfaces so the shelf will slide I decided that I will just poly till it gets thick and keep sanding in between coats by the spring, depending on the humidity I should have enough poly to fill in the rough floor and enough to make it nice and smooth. Thanks for the suggestions from you and everyone else. I guess it is thinking out of the box once you know that I do not have any hard points on the sides. This is why I love the foam. It has given me a new perspective a new way of looking at things. keeps me young. It is a perspective that the typical wood TD builder does not have to deal with. If it was wood there would be lots of ways to connect and hinge lots of things could work, but having foam it has become a real challenge, to invent , design and to come up with ideas and it has been what has made it exceptionally fun. I have enjoyed all the suggestions and the thoughts on the subject. Building out of foam has its own sets of problems but I am concerned with getting the most inventive ways to have a working galley, designing the inside with unique storage and comfort things.

Sharon, I look at the hinges and looked up more, what i learned is that there are a lot of types of hinges. I plan to use a couple of them in the future. unfortunately most of them are designed to work on two or three planes which normally work but you gave me some more ideas and I thank you.,

KC, You are very smart and I appreciate your suggestions and concern. I promise the shelf will not be foam it will be sturdy enough for a little place to put the stove to heat up breakfast coffee and grits in a little parking lot off the beaten path. If there is a picnic table I will cook on that. I promise to build it sturdy , ain't no way my grits is going on the ground.

GPW Yes the legs problem is true but I think i have a solution. we will work on it. I am doing this design type stuff because others will come after and want to know how to do it with foam. You have been my inspiration. I am just so thankful we have wood builders following builds here and to support us as we wing it, giving us ideas and with kindness making us stretch to find solutions to our builds. and yes I am trying to keep it thrifty and to keep it simple.

For others, keep suggestions and ideas coming for all of us foam builders we may not use your suggestion but you give us the avenues to think, design and expand our thinking about foamies.

Mary C.

[mezmo]

Hi Mary,

Sorry this is a bit wordy - just wanted to be as clear as I could.

Since all you want is just a shelf that pivots out, you still can
do that. I looked back to pg 2 of your build journal and it looks like
your floor is built of a 2x4 frame with the ~1/2inch OSB as your floor
decking. If that is a correct deduction on my part, then it would be
possible to create your own pivot "hardware" with some common
hardware items, readily available at the hardware store or home
improvement center.

First: On the shelf board, looking at it as it would be in its stored position,
round over the lower left corner enough so that that that corner point won't
tear into your sidewall when the shelf pivots. How much you'll round-over
depends on where you locate the pivot point.

2nd: Determine where you want the pivot point to be. Will it be on the
edge of the floor frame [in the middle of the 1&1/2 inch wide 2x4 edge
frame -or in other words - 3/4 inch in from the floor's edge, or will it be
further inward a bit ?] I ask that as the pivot location will affect what
hardware items you use. [I don't know if the edge spot is available for
this or if the hatch rests on that point.]

3rd: Obtain your hardware items. What I'd use would be the 1/4inch
size lag bolt, or the 1/4inch size threaded bolt, or a toggle or a molly bolt - depending
on what spot on the floor that you'll be attaching to, or through. Also, some
corresponding 1/4inch nuts - as needed -, and a metal or nylon grommet or a t-nut
that the 1/4inch bolt can fit through and easily turn within, and 3or4 1/4inch fender
washers. [These are 1 to 1&1/2inch diameter washers with the 1/4inch size hole.]

4th: Determine where you want the pivot point in the shelf board. I'd suggest
having the center of the hole for that be located about 1inch to 1&1/4inch inward
from both corner sides. Drill the appropriate size hole for either the 1/4inch bolt/lag
screw to go through or sized for the grommet for the 1/4inch bolt or t-nut. The hole
needs to be ~ 5/16inch if you're just using the bolt/screw alone. I recommend using
the grommet or a t-nut as a grommet for the bolt/screw to pivot through. Using either
will let the shelf pivot easier and smoother and prevent wear, but the simple next-sized
hole will work, especially if it is going through hardwood. [I believe you said the board
you are using is from an old piece of furniture ?] Once you've done that - drilled the
hole or installed the grommet or t-nut - place the shelf on the floor where you want it
to be located and mark where the "whole hole" is onto the floor.

5th: Once you have the floor marked from the shelf, you can then determine what
kind of bolt you need to use. If the mark is above a 2x4, you can use a lag screw. If it is
on the OSB and there is no insulation under it, or you don't have access from underneath,
you'll need to use a toggle or molly bolt [If it's in a hollow cavity]. If you have insulation
under the OSB and an external covering over that, and access to the bottom, you'll need
to get a 1/4inch bolt long enough to go through the total thickness of the combined: shelf
board, plus 3to4 fender washers, plus the floor thickness, with an additional 1/2 to 1inch
of length so that you can fit the nut(s) on the bolt end to hold it all in place. You can either
double nut it or use a lock nut on it to hold it secure.

6th: Once you have drilled the hole in the floor - do your best to keep it perpendicular to
the floor plane - you can then put the bolt and shelf assembly through the floor and secure
it. To do that: take the bolt and put one 1/4inch fender washer on it and then stick it through
the top of the shelf board. Then put two more 1/4inch fender washers on the bolt where it
sticks out from the underside of the shelf board. Then insert the bolt end into the hole in the
floor so that the bolt end extends past the bottom surface of the floor assembly. Add 1/4inch
fender washer and then put on a 1/4inch nut and tighten to a snug fit. Then add another
1/4inch nut and tighten that against the first nut, to lock it, or use a lock nut. That should hold
it all secure and allow the shelf to pivot. The single fender washers are used to spread out
pressure at the ends of the bolt, and the doubled fender washers act as a bearing that allows
the shelf to pivot easier. They're not really thick enough to cause any problems. But you can
add a shim, of the same thickness as the combined doubled fender washers, to the underneath
of the other corner of the shelf on the end where the pivot point/attachment is on if you want.
If you do not have any underfloor bottom covering over any floor foam insulation then add
a plywood/OSB scrap 'washer', about 4inches square, between the foam and the bottom fender
washer. This is to spread any 'clamping' pressure out along the foam - if needed.

This should allow you to mount the shelf securely to the Foamie TD and have it pivot out like
you want, with the pivot end suported by the TD floor. Add a detachable support to the other
end and you're in business. This should be plenty strong to locate the shelf and have it pivot,
as desired.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Mary C]

Norm, Perfect!!! you got the idea, now I have to implement it, Got to looking, digging in the wood in the barn attic after I ran out the opossum, I found a piece of plywood I will be able to cut for the shelf. I have been digging thru the hardware and I think I have enough to come up with a "pivot hinge similar to what you described. And yes you are right. There is plenty of room, Got the information on the electrical for my four lights to be installed Bob helped. and I packed up the bearings in brand new grease and took the extra castle nut and lock pin and packed it up and put tape around the top to make the extra seal. It is I just have to get busy now. Got a lot of sanding on the plywood to do after I get it cut. And Thanks for the suggestion of rounding out the corner. I hadn't thought of that.

Mary C.

[Billchuck]

Something to add to Norm's pivot: cut a piece of plastic milk jug slightly larger than the two fender washers you are using as a bearing, and punch a hole in the center. Put this between the two washers, it will allow them to turn without grinding against each other.

[Mary C]

Welcome to the forum Billchuck, I know you will enjoy the forum. there is a place for Newbies to check in just before general discussion. I am impressed that you chose my thread. Thank you so much for that Idea I could use it also on the other side just so it will slip smoothly around. I can tell you think outa the box and will fit in nicely.

Mary C.

[Mary C]

2 pieces of plywood all cut and sanded and not a drop of poly in the house and too late to go get some. Rats. I am going to sand some more on the little wood tv tray I will be taking it with me as a little table for one, misc. table or if I need to wash dishes or a place to put clean dishes when washed. I guess I will be going to ACE tomorrow for poly and spirits.

Mary C.

[GPW]

Mary , use the cheapest poly you can find ... It works great ... Maybe a little paint store would have better prices than Ace (they’re always high! )

Ps. we found Minwax poly is rather Thin to begin with ... Not the best value for this kind of work ...

[S. Heisley]

Hi, Mary:

I know you've decided on your plan of attack for the swivel counter; but, just incase someone else is looking for a swivel hinge, here is one that would attach to your deck and to you swivel counter, in case someone else is looking for it....good idea for it to all be in the same place:

http://www.atgstores.com/cabinet-hinges ... eCanonical

[Mary C]

Sharon, that is perfect and would work. I might order them later. but for now I have worked out the problem. you are so helpful Thanks. I am working on planning my Big Out West trip and I was wondering if you would like to see this little grit up close? If you will pm your city or let me know about where you are I can plan to at least stop by and meet you. I am trying to get a handle on the costs and the areas I want to visit. Thanks,

Mary C

[Mary C]

It has been very cold here and I have been spending a lot of time getting some things done on the computer. after calling around and looking to purchase windows, I have decided that the Wiley windows will be the best way for me to go but.......I didn't plan on them before I built and now I have a 3/4 inch piece of wood on the inside space of the window area.



Now I have 3/4 inch of wood to work with. I don't know how to use it exactally to make and attach the Wiley windows. I have been researching the windows but having never seen the critter up close in real time. It is not easy I saw some great directions when I read the forum origionally a year ago I saw some great directions lately but I cannot find the original ones. I know that Row built some terriffic ones. Now if I could figure out how to attach the wood on the inside. now pictures work the best. I just cant find but four or five.

Any Suggestions?

Mary C.

[Mary C]

Duh!!!!!

I am really not crazy but we need warm weather, being indoors for so long is begining to get to my brain, I think it is frozen. I am going to the box stores tomorrow just to get out and walk around . This weather is hazardous to my brain. I got how to fix my window problem. but thank ya'll I will get my crazy self off here and read my book.

Mary C.