Newbie Looking Leaning Towards a Foamie (My Question Thread)

[jseyfert3]

Hey all,
Looking for a little foamie advice here. I'm looking to build my first TD, and I'm looking for some general foam info. Originally I was planning a plywood sandwhich construction, 1x2 framing, with foam insulation in the middle, which I picked up as it seems to be the general construction method here. I was planning on painting the outside and using Watco Danish Oil and polyurethane on the inside, to give it a nice wood finish. But yesterday, during my continuing research, I started reading the "grits" construction thread, as well as the general covering thread. Also a thread about how to keep them dry, which Mike started and mentioned his plywood delamination..

As I understand, foamies are the lightest TDs, they are easy to make, hold up really well, and have no chance of rotting/delamination. So I have a couple questions to help understand and figure out what I'm going to do. First off, I've already bought and registered a 4x8 HF trailer, and it's partially assembled. I want just a little over 5', so I can fit a standard queen bed inside and not worry about a custom made bed. I'm planning on doing the Austrialian Sportsman (stretched) profile, with the flat bottom 8' long, and the front and rear curves someone longer then that. I plan on getting a deep cycle battery, so that I can camp at non-electric sites and have lights and a vent fan at night. Towing with a 2005 Kia Spectra, 1000 lb no brakes, 2000 lbs brakes, 160 lbs max tongue weight per owners manual.

1) Although I did want it light, if I go with a foamie, could it be too light for my 1720 lb HF trailer? I.e. springs too stiff for the load it'll be carrying?

2) Building 5' 4" wide or so, I'll need a raised frame to get over the tires. What's the general way of doing this on a foamie? 1x3's or 2x4's like a non-foamie TD and black tar?

3) Framing: Since it won't have regular framing, I have to plan the loads better so I know where to reinforce the foam, correct? I.e. interior shelves/cabnets, galley shelves/cabnets, deep cycle battery mount.

4) Axle position: I'm guessing the axle may have to go further back then a "normal" TD, as the foam weighs less so a galley would be relatively heavier? Is there a standard axle position for foamies? Looking to get close to the minimum tongue weight since I'm towing with a sedan. I'm not planning a super elaborate galley, some counter space, perhaps a small sink, some canned food/spice/general storage, a Coleman white gas stove, cooler.

5) Does anyone do a thin ply, varnish/poly interior for a wood finish with foam construction, or to most foamie builders go with the KISS method?

6) Any other general suggestions that you may have for a foamie/TD newbie?

Also, through Saturday Menards has 11% rebate on all purchases, so if there is stuff I can start buying to start off from there, that's great. I did a little price checking on foam, the pink 4x8' stuff from Owens Corning is: 2.0 in: $26.41, 1.5 in: $19.95, 1.0 in: $14.55, 0.5 in: $9.67. There is also 2" expanded polystyrene for $12.58, but that seems much weaker then the 2" pink stuff.

I'm off to look a little in the foamie section, or perhaps play a little Fallout: New Vegas. Probably both.

<EDIT 2014-02-18> This turned into a personal question thread for me. Discussion of ideas, how to do this and that, and whatnot. I decided on a foamie, and you can see my build thread here.

[Mary C]

Hi and welcome I am Mary the builder of Grits so I can answer some of your questions. My build is 5x81/2 Now 1st is don't touch the HF trailer axle. next I built the frame with 1x4s and 2x4s on their sides on top of the frame and made them longer so I could build out at 5 feet, on the sides and built it 6 inches longer in the front. I used drywall screws to put it together I put OSB on top of that. I built three 1x4 boxes, large enough to sit inside I put one on the front side of the door , the next one went on the other side of the door and the third at the back where I planed to put the hinge and the Galley door. I covered mine with two pieces of 1/2 inch but if I had to do over I would use 2 inch and cut the groves needed for bending. the sides went on without a hitch I used TBII and Wood skewers to hold it together till the glue dried. I used vinyl spackling to fill and sanded when dry then covered with canvas. If you want to put wood on the inside that is fine like KC is doing on his. there have been others built like that too. I want the wood I used inside for hanging things and I haven't finished mine out yet. I plan to use sheets in places and canvas and then on top Maps. I did use some wood in the galley area but not much for the shelves are foam with canvas. Now I used 1x2s to box in for my galley they are attached to the 1x4s for stability. Go back and look at the pictures. I have used straps to put on the shelf so that when I need to I can change the plastic on the shelf out. Don't worry about moving the axle, you will have enough weight in the back to make it even. and .......My advise.......It is keep it simple don't make it harder than it is. Mostly everyone wants to make it harder and more confusing it is simple. and have fun !!!!!! wear old clothes for gluing and if you get covered in glue it will be gone in a month off the body. The clothes permanent. the wonderful thing is you can use wood where you want and try it, If it doesn't work try something else.

things I wish i would have done: cut the bottom of the door at an angle where it was angled down from the inside.
Checked the square of the Galley door. Put papers down in the room where I did some gluing, Put 2 inch foam on the floor on top of the OSB before I put in the 1x4s. Wore my gloves when working with the glue. I couldn't do anything about the humidity one of the worst rainy summers we have had probably in 20 years. I wish I had not been in such a hurry.

Good luck and keep reading, read the thrifty thread and the foam stream, I know they are long but by the time you have finished most of your questions on glues, how to bend and who are these crazy people will be answered. I think we have a great group here, innovative and thrifty

Mary C.

[jseyfert3]

Mary, thanks for the reply. I was actually reading your build thread yesterday, not sure how I found it but it got me thinking "hey, this foamie idea sounds really promising". So thank you for that.

Don't worry about moving the axle, you will have enough weight in the back to make it even. and .......My advise.......It is keep it simple don't make it harder than it is. Mostly everyone wants to make it harder and more confusing it is simple. and have fun !!!!!!

I actually wasn't worried about enough weight in the back, I was worried about too much. Most of the (traditional) TD's I've seen so far move the axle back because the back is usually too heavy so you won't have enough tounge weight...then again, those are the traditional builds, so they may have heavier galleys then the foam people since the build is heavier in general...for example, a guy with a foam trailer might just glue together a 2" pink or blue foam cooler, skipping the heavy plastic shell...cheaper, lighter, and more insulation then most plastic coolers. I don't want a super heavy galley myself, just a place to store some food, a camping stove, fuel, and water, but the water won't be filled while I'm traveling.

As to keeping it simple, I'll try, I tend to overcomplicate things sometimes. Just how I am. I do have lots of fun designing and building stuff though!

Currently reading through Eagle's shortened build thread, then I'll tackle the thrifty thread. Only 6042 posts in 403 pages now. I'll be using the summery thread (which itself is 4 pages!) to help find topics I need questions answered...

My dad is not sold on this foam idea, but then again he didn't want think much of foam RC airplanes until we got some and saw they were suprisingly durable and super easy to repair after crashing... But it really doesn't matter what he thinks, cause in the end it's my trailer, I just like to ask him for advise. He's been around a lot longer then I have and knows more then I do. (except on stuff like Foamie TDs which he's never researched before)

It helps I enjoy planning and researching, although I'm excited to start building too. More research, after I heat up another cup of hot chocolate.

P.S. These simlies are growing on me.

[Mary C]

well, Tell him I am 64 and go lift a sheet of plywood then lift a piece of two inch foam, I could not muscle the ply around, then look at the cost, then look at the long term, no rot!!! just paint it. let him know that in 1974 I could call my husband on the phone from my ham radio and because it worked so good the cell phone came into being. I would go to high schools and demonstrate and the kids loved it. Just because it is new and sounds crazy doesn't make it wrong and we do have some people who have proven that it works. surely He remembers when there were no color TVs. Now they are 5 inches deep and are huge, Get a grip new things have come around all our lives. Just try it. Now you have had my argument to use on dad!!!

Mary C.

[GPW]

Js, if you can believe this , at one time , there were No Foamies... True!!! We built the usual TD out of plywood... and despite careful wood preparation, it delaminated... And as you know , we’ve built many complicated structures out of foam at that “other place” .. Structures that flew at speeds up to 100mph, and survived.... So it only seemed natural that it would work for a simple trailer cabin ... so we tried it , and it worked , and worked very well too... At the start most EVERYBODY had their doubts ... but the use of foam for building is now my FAVORITE construction method ... I’m a similar age as Mary of the House of Grits, so we needed a construction method that would NOT require a lot of maintenance or attention... and especially something that would not Rot ... Foam is IT !!! Nice thing is it’s Thrifty to make (even more Thrifty since you don’t have to spend any money on fixing leaks, rot, and de-lamination ) , and thrifty to tow (light) .... and if you think it’s too light , we can discuss “the Foamie’ ballast system” ...

[eaglesdare]

I am going to chime in here just a little bit.
You should have no problem making your trailer a little bigger than the 5x8. There is a plus side to having a raised bed! All the crap that might get wet, dirty can be slide under the bed. ie: ez ups, chairs, dog beds, place to put your shoes/boots at night, etc.
If I were to do this again, (someday I hope to, I will do a raised bed)

I have bugged out in mine (due to a hurricane), and I packed the heck out of it, my little car handled it just fine. I have pretty much had a full kitchen in my galley, and never had a problem.

[KCStudly]

Yup, thin ply interior on 1-1/2 thk blue foam. My rear cabinets went in just the other day.


Here's a shot of the front cabinet "riblets" being fit.


My thinking about axle placement is that the materials of construction are all about equal to themselves where ever they are in the build, so it is the stowed items that determine the trailer balance. In other words, traditional construction may weigh 'X' lbs per foot of cabin length while foamie construction weighs 'Y' lbs, but the ratio of overall weight to tongue weight still needs to be the same, so the axle should go in the same spot as any other TD. What makes a much bigger difference is your cargo. Are you going to put the fully loaded cooler in the galley or on the tongue? Same question for the 12v battery. Same for the spare tire. Tongue box on front? How much CI cookware do you plan to bring? Camp chairs in the cabin, underneath, in the galley? These things will affect your balance more than the basic structure.

Because of the extra wood in my bulkhead and hard wall edges around the galley, TPCE is already a little tail heavy.

Yeah, maybe you can get away without moving the axle, so long as your doors clear the fenders and you can get into and out of bed without too much crawling around or hitting your head.

I am also building 64 inches wide outside for a true 60+ inches inside. If there ever is a next time, I will not bother; 60 inches outside would be plenty (I'm 6 ft, 260 lbs, tho the wife is "small"). It makes a lot less efficient use of the materials, the extra space inside is not really needed (TPCE seems huge inside... at least for now) and, since there is no chance of rolling out of bed, you can use more of the mattress than in your regular bed. Cutting down a foam mattress is not difficult at all, or you can order from a foam supplier exactly the size you need (just remember to leave an inch or two "for tucking").

Yes a foamie can be made very light weight, as can other types of builds. They can also be just as heavy as any other build. It's all in what you put into it and what you don't. If you want a 5x8 with wood interior, wood cabinets, lots of anchor points with blocking at each location, the weight is going to add up. Cooler, spare, battery, stack of CI cookware, that nice cast iron wood grate that your wife got you for xmas? Those things add up quickly. I have planned all along for my finished weight to be somewhere between 1200 and 1500 lbs (64 x 9ft 8 inches at the floor), tho I will be pleasantly surprised if it comes out much lighter (1500 all up loaded down). Really it's just a guess.

Sure, super simple like GPW's bug out camo foamie ("the grandfather of the modern foamie movement", as I like to say), a 4x8 with no galley or hatch, simple plywood floor, one door, no electrical, no water, maybe a six pack cooler and a box of chips; easily well under 800 lbs. (not sure if he ever weighed it ).

Just remember, every piece you touch, every screw, every scrap of wood, even the foam and canvas adds weight. If you want to keep the end result light, it needs to be part of your approach from the beginning. Even your profile choice will effect weight: a Benroy or Rimple will weigh more than a classic TD shape just because it has more square footage in the walls for a given length (but it will also have more interior space for cabinets and/or for roominess). So long as you don't build it very tall (a sleeper, not a standy), blow-overs should not be an issue in most weather.

The only 2x4 fir lumber in my build to date is: a few 2x4 chunks built into my floor where the anchor points are; the blocking around the side door latches that mostly got routed out for the latch; and the rear wall edges in the galley that were formed into 2x2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 actual) curved arches by laminating ripped down slats into ribs. The other 2x in the floor, wall sill and door jamb/header is lighter weight cedar. Wherever I could I used mostly 1x2 cedar instead of 2x. So if you need to build up your floor to clear the tires, I would go with 1x's on edge, and not too many of them. Remember, the strength is in the outer fibers and the further those outer fibers are apart, the stronger a structural member will be.

Hmm, now you have me curious about how TPCE is doing on weight. I think I will bring the bathroom scale with me next time.

[ghcoe]

Towing with a 2005 Kia Spectra, 1000 lb no brakes, 2000 lbs brakes, 160 lbs max tongue weight per owners manual. I am building my trailer to pull behind a 1975 Opel Ascona (1900 in the States). My goal was to come in under 500lbs. Right now I am just under 400lbs. Still have to install hardware, windows and outer/inner paint canvas, but I feel confident that I will make it.

1) Although I did want it light, if I go with a foamie, could it be too light for my 1720 lb HF trailer? I.e. springs too stiff for the load it'll be carrying?I flipped the bottom spring on my spring pack. I hope that it softens up the ride enough.

2) Building 5' 4" wide or so, I'll need a raised frame to get over the tires. What's the general way of doing this on a foamie? 1x3's or 2x4's like a non-foamie TD and black tar?I did not raise mine. I made inner fenders that come in about 6" and rise above the floor about 2 1/2". I think that it is close enough to the walls that it will not interfere with sleeping, I hope

3) Framing: Since it won't have regular framing, I have to plan the loads better so I know where to reinforce the foam, correct? I.e. interior shelves/cabnets, galley shelves/cabnets, deep cycle battery mount.I used a combination of slots in the walls to hold the shelves to roof flashing for extra shelf edge protection and support.

4) Axle position: I'm guessing the axle may have to go further back then a "normal" TD, as the foam weighs less so a galley would be relatively heavier? Is there a standard axle position for foamies? Looking to get close to the minimum tongue weight since I'm towing with a sedan. I'm not planning a super elaborate galley, some counter space, perhaps a small sink, some canned food/spice/general storage, a Coleman white gas stove, cooler.I moved my axle back till it hit the bolts supporting the rear inner cross member bolt

5) Does anyone do a thin ply, varnish/poly interior for a wood finish with foam construction, or to most foamie builders go with the KISS method?However you want. That is what is great about foam.

6) Any other general suggestions that you may have for a foamie/TD newbie?I bought some poster board foam from the dollar store and made a model. Really puts things into perspective on strength and design features in miniature before you tackle the big one.......

Good luck and have fun. You can read my build thread from the link in my signature.

[jseyfert3]

Js, if you can believe this , at one time , there were No Foamies... True!!! We built the usual TD out of plywood... and despite careful wood preparation, it delaminated... And as you know , we’ve built many complicated structures out of foam at that “other place” .. Structures that flew at speeds up to 100mph, and survived.... So it only seemed natural that it would work for a simple trailer cabin ... so we tried it , and it worked , and worked very well too... At the start most EVERYBODY had their doubts ... but the use of foam for building is now my FAVORITE construction method ... I’m a similar age as Mary of the House of Grits, so we needed a construction method that would NOT require a lot of maintenance or attention... and especially something that would not Rot ... Foam is IT !!! Nice thing is it’s Thrifty to make (even more Thrifty since you don’t have to spend any money on fixing leaks, rot, and de-lamination ) , and thrifty to tow (light) .... and if you think it’s too light , we can discuss “the Foamie’ ballast system” ...

This was actually one of my questions I didn't ask. Foam doesn't rot, but what about the floor? Gotta have some support. Is the floor not a typical wood rot location? What do you do, just coat it generously with "The Mix"?

Oh, and I've got the gist of the foamie ballast system, it seems like a great idea.

Yup, thin ply interior on 1-1/2 thk blue foam. My rear cabinets went in just the other day.

My thinking about axle placement is that the materials of construction are all about equal to themselves where ever they are in the build, so it is the stowed items that determine the trailer balance. In other words, traditional construction may weigh 'X' lbs per foot of cabin length while foamie construction weighs 'Y' lbs, but the ratio of overall weight to tongue weight still needs to be the same, so the axle should go in the same spot as any other TD. What makes a much bigger difference is your cargo. Are you going to put the fully loaded cooler in the galley or on the tongue? Same question for the 12v battery. Same for the spare tire. Tongue box on front? How much CI cookware do you plan to bring? Camp chairs in the cabin, underneath, in the galley? These things will affect your balance more than the basic structure.

Because of the extra wood in my bulkhead and hard wall edges around the galley, TPCE is already a little tail heavy.

Yeah, maybe you can get away without moving the axle, so long as your doors clear the fenders and you can get into and out of bed without too much crawling around or hitting your head.

I am also building 64 inches wide outside for a true 60+ inches inside. If there ever is a next time, I will not bother; 60 inches outside would be plenty (I'm 6 ft, 260 lbs, tho the wife is "small"). It makes a lot less efficient use of the materials, the extra space inside is not really needed (TPCE seems huge inside... at least for now) and, since there is no chance of rolling out of bed, you can use more of the mattress than in your regular bed. Cutting down a foam mattress is not difficult at all, or you can order from a foam supplier exactly the size you need (just remember to leave an inch or two "for tucking").

Yes a foamie can be made very light weight, as can other types of builds. They can also be just as heavy as any other build. It's all in what you put into it and what you don't. If you want a 5x8 with wood interior, wood cabinets, lots of anchor points with blocking at each location, the weight is going to add up. Cooler, spare, battery, stack of CI cookware, that nice cast iron wood grate that your wife got you for xmas? Those things add up quickly. I have planned all along for my finished weight to be somewhere between 1200 and 1500 lbs (64 x 9ft 8 inches at the floor), tho I will be pleasantly surprised if it comes out much lighter (1500 all up loaded down). Really it's just a guess.

Sure, super simple like GPW's bug out camo foamie ("the grandfather of the modern foamie movement", as I like to say), a 4x8 with no galley or hatch, simple plywood floor, one door, no electrical, no water, maybe a six pack cooler and a box of chips; easily well under 800 lbs. (not sure if he ever weighed it ).

Just remember, every piece you touch, every screw, every scrap of wood, even the foam and canvas adds weight. If you want to keep the end result light, it needs to be part of your approach from the beginning. Even your profile choice will effect weight: a Benroy or Rimple will weigh more than a classic TD shape just because it has more square footage in the walls for a given length (but it will also have more interior space for cabinets and/or for roominess). So long as you don't build it very tall (a sleeper, not a standy), blow-overs should not be an issue in most weather.

The only 2x4 fir lumber in my build to date is: a few 2x4 chunks built into my floor where the anchor points are; the blocking around the side door latches that mostly got routed out for the latch; and the rear wall edges in the galley that were formed into 2x2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 actual) curved arches by laminating ripped down slats into ribs. The other 2x in the floor, wall sill and door jamb/header is lighter weight cedar. Wherever I could I used mostly 1x2 cedar instead of 2x. So if you need to build up your floor to clear the tires, I would go with 1x's on edge, and not too many of them. Remember, the strength is in the outer fibers and the further those outer fibers are apart, the stronger a structural member will be.

Hmm, now you have me curious about how TPCE is doing on weight. I think I will bring the bathroom scale with me next time.

I figured foam would cause axle placement to change a little, but of course placement of stuff will determine it more. Idk how much cast iron at this time (but there will be cast iron), a traditional style Coleman white gas stove, cooler in the galley. I figure I could design it to be flexible and put the battery either front or back, same with spare tire. I figured in the front would help ballance out the galley though.

1200-1500 lbs? From what I've read, that seems kind of heavy for a foamie. You do have a lot of wood in yours though. The wood interior would be nice, but I guess paint would be a lot cheaper and lighter...

Oh yes, that's why I-beams are shaped as they are. I took Mechanics of Materials two semesters ago, cool stuff. You are an engineer, correct? (I think I read elsewhere that you were)

I bought a 400 lb bathroom scale for $15 from Amazon, for the sole purpose of weighing things as I go along, and being able to weight the trailer once done and figure out placement on stuff for proper ballance.

Towing with a 2005 Kia Spectra, 1000 lb no brakes, 2000 lbs brakes, 160 lbs max tongue weight per owners manual. I am building my trailer to pull behind a 1975 Opel Ascona (1900 in the States). My goal was to come in under 500lbs. Right now I am just under 400lbs. Still have to install hardware, windows and outer/inner paint canvas, but I feel confident that I will make it.

1) Although I did want it light, if I go with a foamie, could it be too light for my 1720 lb HF trailer? I.e. springs too stiff for the load it'll be carrying?I flipped the bottom spring on my spring pack. I hope that it softens up the ride enough.

2) Building 5' 4" wide or so, I'll need a raised frame to get over the tires. What's the general way of doing this on a foamie? 1x3's or 2x4's like a non-foamie TD and black tar?I did not raise mine. I made inner fenders that come in about 6" and rise above the floor about 2 1/2". I think that it is close enough to the walls that it will not interfere with sleeping, I hope

3) Framing: Since it won't have regular framing, I have to plan the loads better so I know where to reinforce the foam, correct? I.e. interior shelves/cabnets, galley shelves/cabnets, deep cycle battery mount.I used a combination of slots in the walls to hold the shelves to roof flashing for extra shelf edge protection and support.

4) Axle position: I'm guessing the axle may have to go further back then a "normal" TD, as the foam weighs less so a galley would be relatively heavier? Is there a standard axle position for foamies? Looking to get close to the minimum tongue weight since I'm towing with a sedan. I'm not planning a super elaborate galley, some counter space, perhaps a small sink, some canned food/spice/general storage, a Coleman white gas stove, cooler.I moved my axle back till it hit the bolts supporting the rear inner cross member bolt

5) Does anyone do a thin ply, varnish/poly interior for a wood finish with foam construction, or to most foamie builders go with the KISS method?However you want. That is what is great about foam.

6) Any other general suggestions that you may have for a foamie/TD newbie?I bought some poster board foam from the dollar store and made a model. Really puts things into perspective on strength and design features in miniature before you tackle the big one.......

Good luck and have fun. You can read my build thread from the link in my signature.

Under 500 lbs? Nice...I will definately read your build thread. Also, the reason I wanted it raised was so that I could put in any queen sized bed, including a spring bed, if desired. However, I may change my mind before I start building.

Does flipping the bottom spring do anything special, or just remove it from "working"?

[ghcoe]

Does flipping the bottom spring do anything special, or just remove it from "working"?

Just keeps it from working. I just flipped it to make it simple. I was going to remove it but, then the spring bolt was too long and it did not thread down far enough to tighten the spring pack back up. The short springs are usually the stiffest so flipping it should lighten up stiffness quite a bit. Longer springs would work better. Got to work with what you have though.

[KCStudly]

1200-1500 lbs? From what I've read, that seems kind of heavy for a foamie. You do have a lot of wood in yours though. The wood interior would be nice, but I guess paint would be a lot cheaper and lighter...

Really, I have no idea. My CAD model is somewhere around 900 lbs, but that does not include all of the little details, battery and wiring, nor the canvas, glue and paint. Plus that is my "loaded down" goal and includes all of the stowage that is not included in the model. Mia culpa: I haven't added up any of the planned cargo.

You are an engineer, correct? (I think I read elsewhere that you were)

An ASME plus more than 30 years of real world hands on experience. Actually, I have been mechanically minded and influenced by mechanical engineering all of my life (8/1965). Dad went to CALPOLY and was a pipe support engineer. He was in on the pioneering beginnings of computer assisted design; keypunch cards and all. Apple doesn't fall far.

I bought a 400 lb bathroom scale...

Kind of a sad state of affairs. Not long ago at all, bathroom scales in the US only went up to 300 or 350 lbs.

Good luck with your build.

[jseyfert3]

I've been thinking I'll put the axle about 40%, since that's the "reasonable compromise" for a typical TD. Then just load it to get the proper tounge weight. Sometimes, it's best not to over think things, which I think I'm trying to do. I actually need to shut off the computer and go finish assembling my trailer. I want to have it towable by Sat morning so I can go get a bunch of 2" pink foam and some wood from Menard's and get the 11% rebate that's on all items in store. I can't fit that in my car, and my trailer will not get build by sitting in front of a computer, reading and dreaming.

An ASME plus more than 30 years of real world hands on experience. Actually, I have been mechanically minded and influenced by mechanical engineering all of my life (8/1965). Dad went to CALPOLY and was a pipe support engineer. He was in on the pioneering beginnings of computer assisted design; keypunch cards and all. Apple doesn't fall far.

I just finished my Associates in Engineering Science at the local community college, and I'll be starting Tuesday (already? ) towards my BS in Mechanical Engineering. My dad is an ME who has also gotten his PE license and currently works at CAT. The apple indeed does not fall far.

I bought a 400 lb bathroom scale...

Kind of a said state of affairs. Not long ago at all, bathroom scales in the US only went up to 300 or 350 lbs.

They went up to 550 lbs. This one was just the best capacity per dollar I found, and should be good to directly weight one tire at a time to about 850 lb trailer weight, and if it happens to be more (I hope not), I can build a lever jig that still lets me measure using that scale with a 2x4 and some screws or such.

Good luck with your build.

Thanks!

[KCStudly]

By all means, if you are ready, hit the sale; but don't rush yourself too hard. Do your research (seems that you are ) and keep studying the forums. There are so many "lessons learned" to benefit from, and lots of "oop$$$" errors to avoid, that it just makes sense to absorb it before getting to far into a build.

Sounds like you are doing swell.

[jseyfert3]

By all means, if you are ready, hit the sale; but don't rush yourself too hard. Do your research (seems that you are ) and keep studying the forums. There are so many "lessons learned" to benefit from, and lots of "oop$$$" errors to avoid, that it just makes sense to absorb it before getting to far into a build.

Sounds like you are doing swell.

I think I'm ready.

I plan to follow Nobody's plans to move the axle back. His way seems to make the most sense and requires no welding or anything additional besides a 2x4 to replace the center cross pieces he took out. Just needs a couple holes drilled, which is kinda my sticking point. Once the holes are drilled, there's no going back... (well there is, but you get what I mean)

I figured out there is one bolt hole that lines up already if you slide the axle mount back to get the axle about 38" from the rear (40%). That means only 3 or 4 more holes per side. Time to break out the drill I suppose....

I mainly just want to get the trailer up and going, as that's what I need to go get my stuff if I don't want to bother my friend's and pay them gas money. Why do that when I have a trailer?

[KCStudly]

Just don't get caught running it w/o reg. That would negate the whole cost saving effort.

You seem to be plenty knowledgeable and catching on quickly; I'm sure you know how to step drill those holes starting with a center prick punch (transfer punch is preferred) using plenty of lube and nice sharp drill bits... slow speed, make chips not smoke, right?