Father-Daughter Build 2013-14

[lfrazer98]

Lauren and Dad, Consider using a Progressive Dynamics PD4045 convertor. It is used and well liked by many teardrop builders here at tnttt. Using it can make wiring a little easier to do. Here is one place with a good price: americanrvcompany.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD4045KV-Mighty-Mini-AC-DC-Distribution-Panel-&-Inteli-Power-Converter-with-Charge-Wizard-45A

Have you chosen the 110 volt AC power inlet you will use? Amazon has a good price on one: amazon.com/Furrion-F30INR-PS-Round-Non-Metallic It has a LED light to show power is connected.

Take a look at Steve Fredericks gallery campingclassics.com/Gallery to see photos of woody campers where he beautifully "stretched" plywood to make camper sides bigger than 4x8. You may get an inspiration.

Whoa, Nelly! That is a large piece of equipment and I will need a dictionary to read the specs! I think the biggest thing is that we don't know (or I don't really know) how a converter works. I understand the basic premise of converting 110 to 12 v and vice versa, but I am uncertain of how to wire it correctly as to not start a fire and I think my Dad is still learning, too. I will read up on it if you think it makes wiring easier and mention it to my Dad. Most places I have camped in the past didn't have electric, but you never know if that will change now that I have a camper.

We have not chosen the outlet yet, but will check that one out.
I have enjoyed looking at Steve Frederick's gallery and will check it out again.

[lfrazer98]

I haven't seen too many woody teardrops, but on many canned ham trailers with metal siding the vertical seam was along the door jamb, usually along the jamb toward the rear of the camper. Having the vertical seam along the jamb minimizes the exposure of the joint.

I didn't even think to put the seam at the door. I will take a look at the canned hams and check out the seam placement and Steve Frederick's page to see if I can see his seams. I may be taking on too much with a woody exterior, but when I saw them online, I fell in love with the look. I will definitely have to be picky with my wood and don't mind paying extra for it.

[lfrazer98]

Hi Lauren,

Yes, do take the time to meticulously sort through the available plywood. You will be glad you did as you will be immortalizing that piece on your exterior (or interior) for a long time. I look at the interior of my Woody, ( 4 1/2 wide) darker woods with a combination of woods on the cabinets that are Craftsman style, and love 'em. My husband's trailer (4 wide) has a light interior and huge doorways, and he was very choosy about his wood. It made such a beautiful ceiling in his drop that it is hard to believe it is plywood!
ttfn,
Joanie
The Teardrop Nanny

Hi Joanie! Thanks for the great ideas! I can't wait to get the camper done to outfit it with the little things. I think that is going to be the best part! I would love to see a picture of your craftsman style cabinets. I am always loved craftsman style homes, but am not quite sure what the cabinetry looks like. I am going for 2 toned cabinet doors (lighter panel inside) and darker on the outside which will match my exterior. The interior walls will probably match the light color of the 2 tone cabinets. I am copying a Shaker style door that I saw in Lowe's
and these are the stains I bought. and

I am probably going to use the 2 stains that are in the separate picture. I've got time to decide.
Thanks for the input Joanie and nice to meet you!

[Esteban]

Lauren,
I am not an electrician or an electrical engineer. I did most of the work to rewire my house and have not burned it down. I hired an electrician to look my work over and hook up my electrical panel. So I could not tell you, or anyone else, HOW a convertor works. I just know it converts 110 volt AC electricity to 12 volt DC electricity to charge a battery. It's magic! Well not really but that suffices for my ability to explain how it works.

The PD 4045 is a four? stage charger so it helps charge the battery and keep it "healthy" longer. Batteries need exercise. So consider the PD to be your batteries personal trainer helping to keep it fit.

My degree is in Social Sciences from a Polytechnic University. Very little of the engineering stuff rubbed off on me. That's one reason why I like the PD 4045. I don't have to know how it works. It just works well.

1) It safely charges your battery, when you are connected to "shore power."
2) It exercises the battery to keep it strong
3) It has the capability to terminate up to 12 DC circuits with fuses to protect the circuits so you don't "burn them up."
4) It can have a master circuit breaker for your 110 AC power, again to protect you and the circuits.
5) You can have 4? 0r 5? (not sure of the exact number, but plenty for a small camper) 110 volt AC circuits with individual circuit breakers.
6) For bonus points, it plays well with solar power if you ever decide to get, some or most of, your power from the sun. Yeah, you'd need some more fiddly bits for solar.
7) More bonus points, it is fairly compact and it looks good.

[91kuhndog]

Lauren, I've been watching this thread and might be able to shine some light on your build. Search "wiring" on the site here, there are some great wiring schematics and how to guides. I wired mine up for 120V and a converter for 12V. It was pretty simple to wire in. A converter will make life a lot easier if you ever dry camp as you'll have the option to run everything on AC or DC power. I use 12V for all my lighting and s.all water pump, and 120 for refrigerator, AC, and small 250W heater if needed. My build ended up a little overboard but the end result is, I built it exactly as I thought I would use it. Good luck and ask questions if needed.

[lfrazer98]

Thanks for the input on converters. I will do more research and did find some schematics when searched "wiring", but most I don't understand. I will read through them when I have someone knowledgeable next to me so they are more clear. I know this might change, but since I have only done tent camping, I have never camped where there has been electric, or "shore power". I figured I would run everything off the battery and if there is shore power, I will have a few outlets and a battery tender, I believe that is what it is called, wired in so charge my battery. I think this is less expensive and would satisfy my needs while camping. I don't plan on having anything that would require more than 12v. Maybe my needs will change, but at this point, I think this set up will work best.

As for the floor, we got the stabilizer jacks installed, the insulation in, and the floor sealed up. Dad says it is sturdy and said we now have a dance floor in the garage.
Here are the pictures and we will be on a little hiatus as my parents left for Florida and my Dad won't be back for a month. I will be finalizing my wall profile and will be cutting it out of cardboard for a full size mock up. Dad left it all in the garage for me to tape together, draw on, then cut out. I am also putting together a list of supplies that I want/need to buy for the tear and/or camping along with the link to the online retailer. This could be expensive!


The floor goes over to the edge of the side angle so that we can screw the walls onto the outside without a gap on the inside.
We have another cold week here in NY.... back to -10 to -20 with the wind chill. So I probably won't be in the garage (no heat). Have a good week, everyone!

[Esteban]

Lauren, you and your Dad are about to pass a milestone. Getting the floor built is a very gratifying one. Congratulations on your progress.

Some follow up ideas on an electrical system:

If you buy a Battery Tender you might buy the Battery Tender 022-0157-1 Waterproof 12 Volt Power Tender Plus Battery Charger that costs $74.05 from Amazon.com. This converts "shore power" to 12 volt DC to charge a battery.

To fuse your 12 volt circuits a Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with Cover costs $40.95 from Amazon.com.

You would still need a 110 volt circuit breaker box, aka a load center, something like this Your One Source HOM612L100SCP 100-Amp Main Lug Indoor Load Center which costs $27.17 from Amazon.com

Add them all up and you'd pay about $142.17. Plus any more parts that may be needed. It would be a bit of a kludge and take up some not insignificant amount of space.

The Progressive Dynamics PD 4045 is designed for RV usage and packages all three functions in one compact device. It looks pretty good too, so there is less need to hide it out of view. americanrvcompany.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD4045KV-Mighty-Mini-AC-DC-Distribution-Panel-&-Inteli-Power-Converter-with-Charge-Wizard-45A-Camper-Trailer-RV costs $159.79. So its in a similar ballpark for the total cost.

With your proposed galley design one of the upper cabinet/compartments could become your electrical center. That is what I plan to do on the "roadside" of my galley.

Wish I could send you some of our unseasonably warm weather. My area was recently reported to be the hottest in the country. January days have been up into the eighties. Nice but very weird for this time of year.

[KCStudly]

I think it depends on the type of camping that you plan to do. No A/C, no microwave, no toaster, no hair dryer, no electric hot water heater (coffee urn) then 110v is probably not needed; or a simple power strip and extension cord could suffice.

If I ever camp where there is 110v I will use an extension cord and a power strip; maybe; probably won't need it. I don't plan on having any 110v receptacles in the camper, and the only things we might need it for would be camera, phone and laptop chargers, and such, that can also be charged off of 12v solar or tow vehicle.

I am not running an inverter, but will have 12v charging from TV and solar.

Lauren, it sounds to me like you are making the right choice for how you intend to camp.

[Esteban]

KC and Lauren, I plan to sometimes camp where there will be AC power. I will also use a convertor to charge my battery at home before departure. There are 3 or more ways I/you can get power. 1) Shore power from 110 AC. 2) 12 volt DC power from the tow vehicle. Maybe 2.5) a battery charged at home from 110 AC with a convertor to 12 volt DC. 3) Solar power...which I intend to use. Good anytime. Really good for extended camping. IE boondocking where there is no shore power. 4) Would be to use a generator...not for me. Much prefer to use solar which is quiet, non polluting, and free of ongoing fuel costs.

I intend to use shore power, tow vehicle power, and solar power.

Though, I am beginning to question if solar power can largely or entirely replace the need for tow vehicle, battery charging, power. I plan/want to use an AC/DC chest type fridge freezer so my power needs will be greater than "normal" for most teardroppers.

Sorry if I am hijacking your build thread Lauren. Not my intention.

[lfrazer98]

Thanks Steve and KC! I appreciate the links and prices so that I can make an informed decision and don't have to look much up! I think we planning on devoting the whole tongue box to electrical. I heard that it is better to have fuses closer to the battery than father away, so I think we are going to keep everything on the tongue. This way I won't lose a cabinet.

I am interested in the whole solar power thing, so I am glad you mentioned it. That is one thing that I haven't researched. I wonder how hard of an add on that would be after the build is complete....

And, KC, you nailed it! When I camp, I camp. No hairdryer, toaster, coffee pot, fridge, or A/C (although when I was camping in SD, the 117 record high and 90 degree overnight temp was sweltering!)
I was planning on an extension cord for 110, as you mentioned. I just don't have a need unless my battery runs out of juice. I have no idea how long one will last, but then again, I don't plan on doing much that draws on the 12v.

So now to grade some papers I have procrastinated enough by searching for teardrop accessories online.

[Esteban]

As an alternative, if you use the PD 4045, you could put it in your headboard so it would be close to the battery in your tongue box. That would seem like a nice set up

OR you could have your electrical goodies, less the battery, in the overhead cabinet at the foot of the bed. That would work well with solar. Should be fine with a battery in a tongue box too.

Lauren, weren't you going to have a low storage space in the cabin that projects into the galley? That might be another alternative place for your electrical goodies.

It might be a good idea to pre-plan for solar and its wiring. An 80 watt panel would be plenty for LED lights and other low power uses. Flexible solar panels are coming down in price. They are much lighter weight and can be mounted to a curved surface, which gives you more design freedom to pick a teardrop design that is both functional and pleasing to your eye. Rigid solar panels are fine as well. They vary in size, weight, and cost even for the same power output.

I plan to have a tongue box too. I want to devote it primarily to camping gear that may be sometimes be damp or too dirty to want inside the cabin or the galley. Things like a rug or two, electrical cords, a hatchet and stakes, maybe my shade tent, or side privacy (loo) tent, wheel chocks, etc.

I started to build a Grumman II inspired design because it pleased my eye best and seemed very functional. Now I am seriously thinking I will compromise and build a 5x10 Benroy because it is space efficient, much easier to build, a good design for solar, and its flat front works well with a tongue box. Becky built a beautiful one proving a Benroy can be very pleasing to the eye.

Another edit: You can/should have a fuse right next to the battery. The other fuses and or circuit breakers can be where ever you want them.

[be_a_jayhawk]

Lauren more photos of the floor please!

[lfrazer98]

Lauren more photos of the floor please!

Want to see something in particular? I can take more pictures tomorrow.

[lfrazer98]

As an alternative, if you use the PD 4045, you could put it in your headboard so it would be close to the battery in your tongue box. That would seem like a nice set up

OR you could have your electrical goodies, less the battery, in the overhead cabinet at the foot of the bed. That would work well with solar. Should be fine with a battery in a tongue box too.

Lauren, weren't you going to have a low storage space in the cabin that projects into the galley? That might be another alternative place for your electrical goodies.

Another edit: You can/should have a fuse right next to the battery. The other fuses and or circuit breakers can be where ever you want them.

I think in the headboard would be a great idea for the PD4045. This unit charges the battery too when hooked up to shore power? I will look into it, again. If it does what the other 3 separate devices so, then I might as well go with one that does it all.

[be_a_jayhawk]

I would just like to see how it fits into the channel mostly. I am thinking about doing mine with 2 5x5s and then tacking them together with another layer of thin plywood.