Father-Daughter Build 2013-14

[Esteban]

I think in the headboard would be a great idea for the PD4045. This unit charges the battery too when hooked up to shore power? I will look into it, again. If it does what the other 3 separate devices so, then I might as well go with one that does it all.

Yes, the main function of the PD 4045 is to charge the battery when it is "plugged in" to 110 volt power. It is also a distribution panel for 110 volt AC circuits and 12 volt DC circuits. You will have circuit breakers to protect the AC circuits. You can have fuses or mini circuit breakers to protect the DC circuits. One device "that does it all."

When you are plugged into shore power you can use your AC circuits and outlets. If you garage camp, driveway camp, camp in a campground with utilities, or use the trailer as a spare bedroom at home or when visiting friends or family you can use the 110 power, and devices like a coffee maker or a hair dryer. The best of both worlds depending on your location and access to power.

The PD will charge a battery quicker than a 5 amp Battery Tender too. Part of the "magic" of the PD is that it is a four stage charger so your (expensive) battery should last longer (more seasons) before it needs to be replaced with a new battery. The less powerful Battery Tender is a good three stage charger. I bought one years ago to use in my teardrop. It was the "best" choice at the time. No longer true.

When you boondock you would use 12 volt battery power. Maybe recharged with solar power so you can stay out as long as you want without worrying that the battery will get discharged. And/or recharge the battery from your tow vehicle when you travel every few days.

R&P Carriages eBay store has good photos of the PD 4045. It may not be as "big" as you think. Plus their store is chock full of teardrop building goodies.

Added warning: WFCO chargers made in China cost less and used to be popular here. Best to avoid them. They have a somewhat high failure rate. PDs are made in the USA and have a low failure rate.

[lfrazer98]

I would just like to see how it fits into the channel mostly. I am thinking about doing mine with 2 5x5s and then tacking them together with another layer of thin plywood.

I think we used 1/2" ply for the bottom, fit into the "L" angle perfectly all the way around. We used plastic 1/8" baseboard trim to line the cross members since they were slightly lower than the side angle. There would have been a gap between the bottom floor ply and the frame if we didn't put something in there. We just cut it to fit and glued it to the frame. http://www.lowes.com/pd_234337-33674-F4 ... facetInfo=

We put 2 X 4 all around the exterior frame in the channel and recess bolted it to the frame since we would be screwing the side walls into them through the side angle iron. We also had 2 x 4's over the seams of the 3 pieces of ply that were required to close the bottom. We then bolted the stabilizer jacks since they hadn't arrive until this stage. Filled the frame with 2 layers of 3/4th" insulation, then closed the top with 1/2" ply with lots of screws, I believe. The top piece of ply goes all the way to the edge of my frame so it is completely covered. I will get a close picture this week.

Also, I should say that we sealed the bottom of the ply with the roofing emulsion before attaching anything to the frame. We had to build the floor inside the frame rather than off the trailer because we didn't remove the metal at the front and rear that held the 2x4's in place on the original trailer. This made it harder for us and we should have cut it off so we could have just built the floor off the frame then bolted it on.

[Shadow Catcher]

We have the PD 4045 and I can say I am pleased with it, here it is in the galley for size perspective. We have used all of the 12V circuits.

[lfrazer98]

We have the PD 4045 and I can say I am pleased with it, here it is in the galley for size perspective. We have used all of the 12V circuits.

Thanks for the picture to show size. It helps me to plan where I would like to put it. I do have a question though. Yours is easily accessible in your galley, but how often would one even need to access this panel once everything is installed? Your answer will help me determine the best place to put it. Thanks for your help!

[lfrazer98]

Just got back from my parents' house and took a few more pictures. I cut some pieces of cardboard and laid them out on the floor, but couldn't find tape. Will have to come back another day to tape it up and sketch out my full size profile.


My Dad's sketch of the galley.


Back end to show brake light attachment


Finished top of floor- lots of screws


Finished front- minus the tongue rack/box.


Floor/Wheel Clearance- wall will be 1-1/8" thick


Second coat (on top 1/2) of gunstock stain on birch just to see. I like the color and am leaning towards this color for the outside of my tear.

[lfrazer98]

Hatch is redrawn for more galley clearance. Dad drew this based on my specs and some data from the Kenskill profile in the design resources here on tnttt. This is what I am going to use for my cardboard profile cutout. Then I will be able to see if I like my original, steeper hatch profile or this one.

[cleburnescv1937]

It is looking great.

[KCStudly]

I love what you are doing and that your dad is so supportive and helpful in your project.

In the galley, I am assuming that your cooler will be hidden behind the false cabinet panel that is labelled "slide". Otherwise, where will it be?

Also, to my particular eye, I like a little more curve in my profile. The front gets broken up by the tongue box, so that is not so much an issue, but how do you like the long flat section of the roof, and how the back squares off at the floor?

Just a little more curve in these locations would make all the difference in your profile.

Don't take this wrong. If you love it then it is right for you and you should go for it. But if you have any reservations and want just a bit more.. um ...curve, then now is the time to decide.

My thoughts are that if you have confidence that you can make the tightest radius in your profile, then any other curve should be easy to accomplish, so why be afraid to put a curve in here or there?

Maybe I am partial to TPCE shape; gradual curve in the roof and a nice bustle in the rear giving the standard Benroy shape a bit more curve appeal.

Please don't take offense at my comments. I want to encourage you and dad to meet all of your dreams and expectations.

[Esteban]

About that flat roof. If you ever want to add solar panels a section of flat roof will make it easier to do. It's one big reason I changed my preferred design from a Grumman II (beautiful to my eye) to a Benroy (easier to build and more functional). Becky Lance and Becky's Sagwagon built a beautiful one I plan to closely emulate.

[be_a_jayhawk]

I admire the progress! Even in this miserable winter you keep on going! I wish I could keep up!

[lfrazer98]

The style that caught my eye the most was the Kenskill. I did have a little more slope in the hatch area (less clearance for cabinets) in my first drawing which resembled more of a teardrop shape. I liked that initial sketch. Then I decided just to curve it a little more and went with the kenskill measurements for the hatch. I like having more room inside and the shape is appealing to me. I take no offense at all! I actually don't care for the hatches that extend past the trailer then curve up under. Is that a bustle? I am a little new to the terminology. I actually used the kenskill profile, since i liked it, and extended it to fit my 10 foot long trailer. So, I added a foot of flat roof in the middle to make it work. I do see what you mean though. I love the look of the Grumman II and the Superleggera. I disliked the Benroy because of the front. It was too harsh of a curve. If anything, I may go back to my original profile and have a more gentle slope in the back area to give it more of a tear look. My total length is going to be 10' 6" so I can't slope too much or else I will have very low counters and shelves. I am pretty tall for a girl, too.

Thanks for the input, everyone, and I really appreciate your support! I will be cutting out my profile to my second sketch's specs and may contour it to my liking once I see it full size. We might break out of the negatives by Friday and may actually get to 30. Been 13-17 the past 2 days and -7 this morning on my way to work. That is COLD!

KC- Yes, there isn't going to be a false front on the right, but a slide out drawer. Dad wrote slide so he knew what type it would be: drawer or shelving. Yep, slide out cooler on the right and slide out stove on the top left. I am not familiar with the TPCE profile, but is it kinda like the cub, sloping and curvy in the rear? Yes, I am still talking about tears! I will have to look that term up.

Steve, I did see the Sagwagon and think it is beautiful, too! I just don't want a harsh curve in the front of mine. I will see once I get it cut out. I am sure I will change my mind. But, be certain that I will keep in mind function as well as form.

Thanks, again, everyone!

[KCStudly]

I think I am the only one to use the term "bustle", so no worries that you don't know what I mean!

TPCE profile is basically a Benroy with a slight curve in the roof, and a bit more curve in the rear sticking out just a touch up high like a canned ham or, kind of like a southern belle's dress at the hips... hence my term "bustle".

Not at all as tapered or acute as a true teardrop.

TPCE profile.


Southern Belle's Bustle

[lfrazer98]

Now with that reference, I do understand what a bustle is, from a female perspective, anyway. Thanks for the visual! Yes, I am definitely more of a streamline, curvy fan. The picture looks more angular to me, but some may call it curvy. I guess it all depends on perspective! We will see soon enough what I end up liking after I get my profile cut out, See you all in a couple days with some progress, hopefully!

Night!

[aggie79]

We have the PD 4045 and I can say I am pleased with it, here it is in the galley for size perspective. We have used all of the 12V circuits.

Thanks for the picture to show size. It helps me to plan where I would like to put it. I do have a question though. Yours is easily accessible in your galley, but how often would one even need to access this panel once everything is installed? Your answer will help me determine the best place to put it. Thanks for your help!

Lauren,

My galley layout is similar to your design. I put my WFCO - I guess I have one of the few that have worked well for 3 years - in the upper left galley cabinet. My battery, battery cut-off, and additional wiring are in the lower left galley cabinet. The WFCO is very close to the same dimension as the PD4045 convertor. (I know because I've measured my cabinet opening to see if the PD4045 will fit if/when the WFCO fails. I only need to enlarge to opening about 1/2" to fit the PD4045.)



To your question, once you have everything in place, you really don't need to access your convertor. I did have one 12v fuse "blow" one time due to a faulty switch, but other than that I've not touched the convertor.

Regarding your profile considerations, my profile has a straight (non curved) section that is 2'-3" in length. I think the curves fore and aft help trick the eye into making the flat part seem curved. Also, I think if you transition/blend the curve to the straight - I believe the engineering term is to have the curve be tangent to the straight section - you don't notice the intersection as if much as if it wasn't blended.



The flat part on my teardrop starts at about the middle of the door and goes just beyond the vent fan. To me, the flat part is not that visible on my profile.

I noticed in one of your sketches that you are going to have headboard cabinets. On ours, I angled the cabinet back about 5 degrees. (I think it was about 1" offset in about two feet.) An angled seat back can really make a difference as far as comfort.



Y'all are doing great. Keep plugging away.

Take care,
Tom

[Shadow Catcher]

The placement of our PD was for convenience in wiring for the water heater and most of the internal and external outlets. And no there is no necessity for easy access, except that when switching to inverter the PD charging/converter function needs to be turned off.