New Member with some CT/TV questions.

[Alpha One Nine]

Hello all,

I have been lurking in this forum and enjoining the creative ideas and stories for just over a month and this is my first post.

I just sold my F-350 and 10 foot self contained truck camper and I'm ready to move forward with the Cargo Trailer/Toy hauler plan. My planned tow vehicle is my 2002 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 with the 3.4L V6 and automatic transmission. I have already done the popular Tundra front brake upgrade but whatever I get will have trailer brakes too. I plan to install an additional transmission fluid cooler, brake controller, and possibly some rear suspension upgrades. I'm really hoping to go with a 6x12 if my rig can handle it. Most of my friends who tow a lot have said I should seriously consider tandem axles.

I have a pretty tempting special order quote for a 2014 Continental Cargo Value Hauler (model VHW612TA2) 6x12 wedge nose with tandem axles, 6'5" interior height, two 30"x15" windows, RV style right side door, Fantastic Fan powered roof vent, wall and ceiling insulation and a 10 foot 8500 series RV style awning. The curb weight of the VHW612TA2 base model is 1600 pounds per the flyer which is only 300 pounds more than the single axle model. Most of the other makers advertise a bigger weight difference so I wondering how accurate the flyer is. I don't expect to put more than 1200 to 1400 pounds in it. I would like a small bench/counter top and in the front with a small sink and small fresh water tank somewhere, a twin size folding bunk of some type, a pota-potti or maybe cassette toilet and some type high mounted shelves (wire type?) along both sides and above the counter in the front. The main cargo will be up to two dual-sport motorcycles (usually only one) with a combined weight of about 700 pounds.

Does anyone think this trailer will be too much of a load for my little 4Runner? I don’t expect to blast my way over mountain passes at 70 miles per hour but I’m hoping 45-50 would be doable and 60ish on flat ground. I know about disabling the OD and activating the ECT when towing. Also, I have ordered a Bluetooth ODBII code transmitter that I plan to use to send real time transmission temp info, along with other sensor readings, to my dash mounted smart phone using the “Torque Pro” Android app. I have heard overheating the transmission and the weak brakes are the two biggest concerns people face when towing with the 3rd gen 4Runners. Between the Tundra front brakes and brakes on the trailer I think I should be fine in that regard. A few people have told me I’m wasting my money with tandem axles considering my load requirements but there is a piece of mind factor involved and I have heard they do tow much nicer in general.

Any comments on the Continental Cargo Value Hauler line?

Any input is appreciated. I do need to get the order in fairly soon if I want to have it by the weekend I have plans for.

Thanks,
Rick

[MtnDon]

There will be many opinions on single axle vs double axles. Considering the size 6x10 or 6x12 and that it is to be used as a camper and not a serious cargo hauler I believe you only need a single axle. Brakes on it are a big plus for those of us in the mountains especially. I've always tried to avoid double axles if the weight capacity does not need them. In 35 years of towing trailers I have never had so much as a flat let alone a blow out or exploder. I do watch check their pressure regularly and thump them every gas stop on a trip.

IIRC the 4runner has a tow rating of 5000 lbs but I do not know if that is dependent on any special equipment being necessary.

[Alpha One Nine]

Thanks MtnDon,
You're right about the published 5000 pound max towing weight for the Gen 3 4Runner. I'm trying not to come too close that that. About 3500 is as much as I would think is good idea which is what a single axle with brakes installed is rated for.

[MtnDon]

I should rephrase the 'never had a flat' claim. I have never had a flat that caused an issue on the road. I have found low pressure tires upon checking tires before setting off. So I would change the tire to the spare and have the other repaired. But no problems while under way. In view of that I discount the "safety" factor offered by double axles unless the load calls for the higher capacity.

I think about 60% of the rated tow capacity is a nice number to aim for, though I have gone over that when hauling construction materials.

[walkrdg]

I'm new here myself, but maybe some of this information may be of help.

There is a man on the Casita club site called "Dutchman" He has been full-timing in a Casita (approximately 1500 lbs dry weight. A typical load weight approaches 3000 lbs) for about the last ten years. To pull it, he bought a used 2 wheel drive 4-Runner with the same engine you have. Last time I checked, he had somewhere over 265,000 miles on that motor, having only replaced one injector. He's on his third differential, I believe. He roams the West, and frequently visits Billings, MT. I've known about him for years.

I just got a 6 x 14 myself. The weight difference on mine for a tandem axle was listed at 415 lbs. This is with 15" radial tires, by the way. Going for the 14' over the 12' was a weight gain of 130 lbs. I agree with MtnDon and got the single axle. (I've towed it a whole 25 miles!)

My tow is a 2000 4-wheel drive Tacoma with 41,000 miles on it. Also, same V-6 you have. It's completely stock except for a HD transmission cooler, but I have a fiberglass Leer cap, and I just installed a set of Timbren's at the rear springs. I have the OBDII functioning with my cell phone. Lots of engine information, but I haven't located any transmission sensors.

Hope some of this helps.
Dave

[Gonefishin]

I'm towing my 6X12 single axle with a V-8 truck, so can't help you on the Toyota. However, I have about 30,000 miles or so on mine already, and no issues with single axle. Like Don says, keep tires inflated, check 'em, check the bearings, and good to go. I do a lot of high speed pavement between places, and then lots of dirt roads when I get "there." I'm glad I saved the weight and extra tire expense and went with single axle. Would do it again. Tires are 15". I have EZ Lube bearings too, and just give 'em a few pumps of grease every couple months.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I always like this conversation. In theory you could just drive on one tire if it never went flat!

Really it just comes down to your comfort level in my opinion.
2 wheels and no breaks are great if you never get a flat , blowout or need to slam the brakes.
Don't know anybody who would not trade single for double on a blow out !!

This weekend I rented a 6 x 12' single axel no breaks, I survived the trip
In general I have not had a flat in 20 years ......
Given my preference I would rather tow duel axel, torsion, self adjust breaks, easy lube hubs.

I noticed I got about the same gas mileage on the 6 x 12 as I get on my 7 x18' with my Tundra Crewmax
Hope that helps.

[Alpha One Nine]

Thanks for opinions guys.
Please keep them coming.

Need to head over to a buddy's house to watch a football game.
Go Hawks!

[lrrowe]

I too appreciate these comments which help support my decision to go with a single axle 6 x 14 CT to be towed by my F150. I wanted to keep the width down for the same reasons as many of you have posted and stay with a SA for the weight and cost factors. I tow a 5 x 10 heavy duty utility trailer with a 3500# axle (no brakes though - so I guess it is only legal for 2900 lbs). I will not hesitate carrying 2000 payload pounds of stone, mulch, dirt, firewood or whatever and have had no fear of having issues with the tires. In fact I might now be pushing the envelope as the Goodyears are 20 years old. But they are a good quality of radials and looking good.

For awhile I was towing this rig with my 1992 Ford Ranger with a 5 speed. Yes I had to work the gears, but the truck was up to it. Then I went to a 2000 Tundra V8 (before my 2012 F150) and had no issues with that one either.

Bob

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Then I went to a 2000 Tundra V8 (before my 2012 F150) and had no issues with that one either.

Bob

Since the 2000 Toyota was only a mini truck.... 4.0 ltr
I FORGIVE your sin of getting a FURD F150.....


I got my Tundra for $34k .... today 7 years latter with 85,000 miles its still worth KBB $28k - AMAZING !!!

No man in his right mind would willingly trade a 5.7 Ltr Crewmax for a Ford 150
even if gas costs $10 a gallon and truck only gets 5 MPG !!!

[dustboy]

I tow my 6x12 tandem with my 2009 Ridgeline (3.5L V6), and it will do 50 up long hills no problem. Although the MPGs go to hell if I flog it too hard. I did have a problem overheating the tranny on a very slow bumpy forest road, not enough airflow over the cooler.

If your TV is maybe a little underpowered, that 300 lbs from the extra axle is going to make a difference, plus you got extra rolling resistance from 2 more tires, etc. That said, I do feel a bit more secure at highway speed.

I think you can pull it no problem, there will be times when you're missing that F350.

[Rainier70]

I tow a 6x12 Mirage xpo trailer with a Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl. Trailer is single axle and had a dry weight of 1200lbs. I am not sure what it weighs now... I am guessing at about 1500 to 1600. I mostly tow in the high mountains of Idaho. It pulls great at all speeds, but I do lose about 5 mpg at freeway speeds.

It really depends on how much weight you plan on putting in your trailer. I suggest that you get a good weight estimate of what you want to carry and then decide. What is the payload of the single axle?? double axle??

[grantstew8]

There is a similar thread running about a ford connect and is probably more about the TV than the trailer.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58726

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Rick,
I fully get the truck camper thing and had an 8" full cabover for years, going to a tent, and to the back of a Blazer, and finally to a 6X10" cargo conversion ... I LOVE THE CT conversion!! My trailer weighed in a just over 1400 lb. dry when it was built and I have been adding to it, guessing it is closer to 1700/1800 when hooked to the truck. I bought a LOOK with a 6.5 ft. round-top and had the trailer lifted for high clearance off-road. take a look at my gallery and discussions on this site under cargo conversions. I am pulling it with a 1991 Chevy Blazer, 350 TBI, and a 4-speed tranny. I had put on 33" tires some years ago, but the added weigh and air resistance hurts on the highway!! I just pulled the trailer loaded (I did not weigh it, but am guessing close to the 3500 lb. limit) from Phoenix to Minneapolis; the truck pulled the trailer fine until I hit 60 mph, then it struggled to keep a 65 - 75 miles per hour, unless I was on flat land, going down hill or had a tail-wind. I am getting ready to re-gear from 3.73:1 to ~4.56:1 to get me back closer to stock and due to the wind on the taller trailer (about 20-24" over Blazer cab), I have a guy that is building a short roof-rack for the Blazer with a collapsible wing.

I do not know if any of these would apply to you, probably not, but was just tossing in a couple cents.

Good luck with your purchase and build and if you are 6' or taller, you will love the 6.5' ceiling height!!

[MtnDon]

You will not only notice a big increase in performance with the revised gearing, but you fuel mileage should go up on the highway. That at least was my experience with my Jeep Cherokee XJ when I went to 32" tires and changed gearing from 3.55 to 4.11.