Don & Karen's 6 x 12 Deep Vee Front CT

[MtnDon]

Not all Sams Clubs carry batteries so check beforehand to maybe save a wasted trip. Same for Costco, not all have batteries, or at least not all stock golf cart batteries.

[MtnDon]

Did more today...

Bed platform framing done... Yes, you would expect the 2x4 to run the other way more like a joist, but for this purpose this works and provides more clearance underneath



1/2" plywood trial fitted...



Lots of under bed storage space...



Where the shower will be, The plywood indicates where the bulkhead between bed & shower will be...



View from outside the door. 1x2 indicates probable counter edge position, though I may use a curve.

[hankaye]

MtnDon, Howdy;

Looks like you're fixin'ta short yourself short when it comes to those
rainy days we get so often here in NM... only an observation...
Here's the vent kit accessory;
http://www.rvlifestyles.com/parts_store ... ts_id=5189
Miller's is good folks, I used to do bid'ness with them when I lived in Utah. Disclaimer; Other than a satisfied customer
I have no other affiliation with them

hank

[lrrowe]

MtDon,
I am curious to know what are those squarest silver patches on the barn doors?
Bob

[MtnDon]

Bob,

The rear doors are/were hollow. I drilled holes for 2 purposes. #1, to use for applying the foam in a can, and #2 to check the levels as it expanded. FYI, if using regular foam in a can be very careful when applying the foam inside the door. There is sufficient expanding power to severely bow the aluminum skin or the thin plywood. The low expansion "windows & doors" foam is more forgiving. DAP makes one that is open cell and stays soft; guaranteed not to distort vinyl window frames. But it is open cell.

Eventually the inside face of the doors will receive sheet foam and new plywood skins.

I also added some wood framing pieces in the upper section to stiffen the door where the cutouts are and to give needed support for the relocated upper hinges. That was slipped inside the door through the cut out and glued to the inner skin with epoxy as well as some screws.

DonM

[lrrowe]

Thanks MtnDon,
You anticipated my next question and that was on the insulation for the doors.
Did you consider taking the doors apart to put foam sheets in them or is that just too impractical?
Bob

[MtnDon]

I considered disassembly but decided against it. I have no idea if every mfg makes their doors the same way.

The next step, after mounting the A/C, will be a sheet of foam on the inside. Probably 1 1/2" as I have some on hand.

Started on some electrical at the rear end... service cord / generator power entrance, transfer switch, inverter mounting, charger, etc.

[MtnDon]

It was seeming like it has been forever since I posted some progress; I see it has been a month. How time flies when other things get in the way.

The batteries are mounted on the sliding tray and connected. I made the 2/0 cables with my hammer crimper. That includes the inverter supply, the disconnect and main DC fuse. The charger is mounted and connected. The low voltage accessory main supply wiring is in place. On the AC side the shore power inlet is connected to the automatic transfer switch which is connected to the cabin mains. And a couple of the AC outlets are in place.

Plumbing; the drains from shower and sink are connected to the waste holding tank. The supply lines from fresh water tank to pump to water heater and the distribution lines to shower and sink area are in. Supply lines are all PEX using the stainless steel crimping system. Winterization drain valves in the hot and cold lines are installed. I think I'll pressure test with the supply lines capped before advancing further and hiding pipes behind and under things.

Roof insulation all done and only a portion of the wall under the window to complete.

Pictures tomorrow. Hopefully.

[MtnDon]

Pictures after Spring Break

[MtnDon]

Spring Break in the Jemez of NM; it snowed a little, the snow melted, the sun shone, we had a couple of shirtsleeve afternoons followed by 32 degree nights, we thinned more trees, and I now have all the firewood needed for next year, cut, split, and stacked.

Now back to the CT... Some other things had to be done around here today but I did take pictures of what I accomplished before deserting for spring break.

The shower pan ready to be glued in place. PEX plumbing supply for the future sink in the nose area, conduit for some 120 VAC electric and one for the sink drain. Not much room for all that under / behind the pan...



The wall between shower pan and bed will be installed as soon as I pressure test the plumbing supply lines (tomorrow?)
~~~~~
Closer up view showing fresh water tank and fill line, vent line, drain and pump line...



The receptacle is 120 VAC from either shore power, generator or the inverter. The PEX that goes vertical is for the shower and the vertical gray conduit is actually a waste tank vent line that will penetrate the roof.
~~~~~
Next are the two golf cart batteries on their slider and showing the 2/0 welding cable cables. Black is positive and white is negative; similar to white being neutral in an AC system. I don't worry about the colors on the battery interconnect cable. DC master disconnect on the leading edge of the tray...



~~~~~
The other electrical major components...



In the center is the Iota DLS-55 is a charger / converter I had had for many years. It has seen a variety of uses over time. FYI, it is a multi stage charger; bulk, absorb, float and a timed automatic equalize. 55 amps maximum output. Copper buss bar for the chassis ground connections. The black box to the left is an AC automatic transfer switch. There is a shore power inlet on the left rear outside corner. That input line connects to the box with the red face plate (on the left). The inlet also connects to one of the inputs in the ATS. The orange wire connects the second ATS input to the inverter 120 VAC outlet. The inverter is another item I've had for several years. It is a Xantrex PROwatt SW, pure sine wave 2000 watt. The data cable on the PROWATT is for the remote control which will be located up front in the counter / sink area.

~~~~~
Another view showing the cabling and the nailer plates to keep me from driving screws through the cables. FYI, the generator can not be operated in its storage space. I may at some future date build the carrier / storage rack I have planned. That would mount on the exterior of the left rear door once the reinforcement rack and bars is made. he idea is to be able to lock it up and be able to operate by opening the dust cover. So far just an idea...



The positive and negative cables connect to some copper buss bars. A bolt through the plywood wall supplies a connection point in the battery chamber. Hidden behind the rear frame crossmember is a 250 amp fuse. The white and red 8 gauge wires are the master DC feed to the front of the trailer. That has a fuse off the buss bar as well. A second fuse from the buss bar connects forward along the bed framework to the 12 VDC RV water pump.

[hankaye]

MtnDon, Howdy;

All that elect. would drive me bonkers ... but I reckon
the soft hum from it all would lull you into a good night's sleep ...

hank

[lrrowe]

Hi MtnDon, glad to see you are back.
I have missed your posts. I always find them both interesting and informative. I thought I would be posting something now myself, so I can start really paying my dues, but I put almost everything, except lurking, on hold because I developed a cyst on my spine and the back pain has stopped me from doing anything theses days. I hope surgery takes care I'd it in a few weeks. Then I will feel more confident in spending the money for my CT.

In the meanwhile, please keep them coming.

Bob

[MtnDon]

It's been a while but I have made progress...

The plumbing pressure tested w/o leaks and the propane leak tested okay after I got rid of a tee fitting that had a casting flaw and had a tiny but consistent leak. The water heater heats water.

I have completed all the insulation except for the rear doors. I have also installed all the interior wall paneling (5 mm plywood) and installed the shower pan (glued down on a raised bed of rigid sheet foam. Two shower walls up but the shower liner is not yet installed. I've applied 2 coats of Minwax polycrylic clear coat on the interior wood wall and ceiling panels; one more to go. hen sometime soon I have to glue up the hull liner on parts of the ceiling and install trim.

The base for the truckfridge is installed and the rear and side panels along with the top have an additional 2 inches of polyisocyanurate insulation installed. The cut out for the compressor excepted. The floor platform the fridge sits on has 2 inches of polyiso. The door remains as it came. The counter framing in the left side of the nose is done. A countertop will be cut and installed soon. Shelf for the m-wave is yet to be done. Maybe tomorrow.

I cut a hole in the left rear door and the A/C is hanging there and works nice to cool the interior on the couple of recent days that we hit high 80's and a 92. It's not complete as I have a door reinforcement to complete. It's been consistently too windy to MIG weld outdoors and I have enough other stuff to do so don't feel like changing to flux core wire. I don't liker slag anyways.

No pictures on all that right now. Maybe tomorrow I'll do a photo shoot and update.

[hankaye]

MtnDon, Howdy;

Sounds like you've been industrious. Between your 80* days, how much snow did you get
from the last front?
Looking forward to the pix.

hank

[MtnDon]

Snow; just a flurry that didn't even cover the sidewalk, road or grass here at home base (5500 ft). Not sure about the place in the mtns at 8800 ft.