"The X-Cubed" C.T.T.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

No pictures tonight, but I did get the one rear crossmember bolted into its new location. I also attached the stock trailer lights and wired them up. Can you believe that I didn't have any grounding problems?! All lights were good to go on the first try! Both HF kits that I built on had crazy grounding issues. I ended up having to run a ground wire to each light on those builds.

So, other than the lack of fenders and a license plate, the trailer is ready to go on its first wood run. Its a good thing Lowe's isn't too far away!

[bdosborn]

Zach,

Your frame and axle picture reminded me of my old jeep. It had a C channel frame but it was boxed at the spring mounts. I think the stock HF axle setup basically boxes the frame too. I wonder if you should you box the frame over the axle?



My jeep frame used to crack wherever it wasn't boxed, but I bet it saw a lot harder use that your trailer will.

Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Somebody else had asked me a similar question about reinforcing at the axle location. I don't think its necessary, as the stock spring hangers didn't have anything reinforcing them. Also, the torsion axle beam acts as a load-carrying cross-member, whereas the stock axle and springs floated around on the stock mounts. The torsion axle essentially connects the two side rails together, so neither rail can twist or roll inwards, which I think would be the cause of the cracking. The torsion axle is also de-rated which should give it a softer ride, and since its designed to give a smoother ride I don't think the frame rails will see the jarring impacts that they would be subject to with leaf springs.

NT's stock configuration is different from the HF setup, which had one long bracket for each leaf spring. That long bracket spanned the gap of the front and rear halves and joined them together. NT has solid continuous rails and separate spring hangers. Once its all said and done, I'll keep an eye on it for any indication of flexing or cracking. If something looks awry at some point then I'll go from there. Good thinking though!

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I had no intentions of getting anything done tonight. But somehow I ended up at Lowe's after work. I think I was sleep-driving. The next thing I know I was driving home with a load of boards. Not too long after that, the boards were somehow cut in smaller pieces and arranged nicely under the trailer frame.



I figured that since the boards somehow magically made it to this point, why stop now? So I got the Kreg Jig out and drilled a bunch of pocket screw holes. Can't believe I hadn't bought this thing before this build! Of course, I was thinking the same thing about the table and miter saws.



And then, one thing turned into another and I had about 90% of the floor framing finished. Its going to be a sandwich floor with 3/16" ply on the top and bottom of the 3/4" thick frame. There will be an opening in the middle to access the batteries, and on each side of that opening there will be narrow wire chase that runs from the very front of the bed to the rear bulkhead. At the foot of the bed the wires will turn and run up the bulkhead to the upper galley.



There are still about 6 pieces that go down the middle of the framework, but I'm beat.

Some family is coming in tomorrow so the next couple nights I'm going to spend some time with them, and then there is a Chesapeake Bay Chapter TearJerkers gathering this weekend. Guess I'll just have to take a few nights off!

[KCStudly]

Nice progress. I'm very excited to see this very creative design starting to come together.

[Ron Dickey]

I was pretty disappointed when I found my cross members are 1" too close together for the tire to tuck up underneath. I was thinking of putting it on top of the galley hatch, keeping it in the truck would be too likely to be left at home by accident.

Interesting. My 12" wheel/tire from HF fit (barely) between my trailer cross members.






I just opened up my CAD model for the X-Cubed, and a full-size (15") spare won't fit without moving the trailer cross beams. Although a 12" wheel/tire would fit, and would work in an emergency situation. I might just adjust the cross beams to fit a full-size spare. Either way, I'd like to keep the spare out of the way, but as you mentioned I'll probably forget it if it isn't attached.

A couple weeks ago I went snowboarding and forgot my coat.

I met a man today who made a cage for his spare and made is to it would slide out the side then used a lock and chain to keep it in. I did not bring the camera that day wish I had. very interesting trailer. Just a HF used as a flat be but what he did to it was really thought out.

Ron

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I met a man today who made a cage for his spare and made is to it would slide out the side then used a lock and chain to keep it in. I did not bring the camera that day wish I had. very interesting trailer. Just a HF used as a flat be but what he did to it was really thought out.

Ron

Interesting. Did it drop down and then slide out, or just slide straight out? I need to keep as much ground clearance as possible. Having it slide straight out wouldn't kill my ground clearance on the X-II since the tires are only 5.3" wide, but on this build I'll be upgrading the 12" wheels to 15" wheels, where the tires are 8" wide. My side are only 13" from the ground so that wouldn't leave much ground clearance. Even in the rear of the trailer where my spare will be, I have about 16", and I definitely don't want to cut that in half. Sometimes when backing into campsites and going through ditches on the trails the articulation between the trailer and the car will come close to dragging the rear end.

[Ron Dickey]

I met a man today who made a cage for his spare and made is to it would slide out the side then used a lock and chain to keep it in. I did not bring the camera that day wish I had. very interesting trailer. Just a HF used as a flat be but what he did to it was really thought out.

Ron

Interesting. Did it drop down and then slide out, or just slide straight out? I need to keep as much ground clearance as possible. Having it slide straight out wouldn't kill my ground clearance on the X-II since the tires are only 5.3" wide, but on this build I'll be upgrading the 12" wheels to 15" wheels, where the tires are 8" wide. My side are only 13" from the ground so that wouldn't leave much ground clearance. Even in the rear of the trailer where my spare will be, I have about 16", and I definitely don't want to cut that in half. Sometimes when backing into campsites and going through ditches on the trails the articulation between the trailer and the car will come close to dragging the rear end.

It slid out but it was right next to the wheel so I do not think it would even drag. I am thinking of putting mine below the galley and coming out the back a little to become a bumper! of a sort. That being said I have not built my galley and that may add to much wight to the back end.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

it could flip down and then pull or drop out.

[Kharn]

I told you the Kreg was a cool tool.
I'm jealous of the master jig, I just have the two-hole version and the big clamp.

[ryuandwings]

I met a man today who made a cage for his spare and made is to it would slide out the side then used a lock and chain to keep it in. I did not bring the camera that day wish I had. very interesting trailer. Just a HF used as a flat be but what he did to it was really thought out.

Ron

Interesting. Did it drop down and then slide out, or just slide straight out? I need to keep as much ground clearance as possible. Having it slide straight out wouldn't kill my ground clearance on the X-II since the tires are only 5.3" wide, but on this build I'll be upgrading the 12" wheels to 15" wheels, where the tires are 8" wide. My side are only 13" from the ground so that wouldn't leave much ground clearance. Even in the rear of the trailer where my spare will be, I have about 16", and I definitely don't want to cut that in half. Sometimes when backing into campsites and going through ditches on the trails the articulation between the trailer and the car will come close to dragging the rear end.

I'm not sure this is anywhere near what you guys are discussing, but this is what I decided to do with mine.
Spare is located in the triangular area of the tongue with a cage that pivots down.


Here is the trailer frame flipped upside down.

If I use the same size tire, it will be wedged in there, but I will have a bolt that will hold the spare to the cage.
I think it may extend a little below the axle, but should not be by much.

I know once the tongue box is installed, I will have to get on my back to get the spare out. But I think that should be ok since I'm not planning to use that very often.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I told you the Kreg was a cool tool.
I'm jealous of the master jig, I just have the two-hole version and the big clamp.

Dan has the same one (but without the big clamp) and it works really well. The clamp on the master jig makes it sooo much faster/easier to use though. And this build is going to have a TON of pocket holes to drill out, so I'm glad I bit the bullet and spent a few extra bucks on it.


Pretty interesting configuration Ryu

[ryuandwings]

Zach,
I've been meaning to ask you about your TV. Do you still tow with your Subaru? I think that is somewhere around 2009ish, isn't it?.
If so, how does it tow your camper? I have 2007 Outback 2.5i so curious to know how mine would do.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Zach,
I've been meaning to ask you about your TV. Do you still tow with your Subaru? I think that is somewhere around 2009ish, isn't it?.
If so, how does it tow your camper? I have 2007 Outback 2.5i so curious to know how mine would do.

Yup, @ 150K its still running strong. Its actually a 2005 Outback 3.0, so it has a little bit more get-up-and-go than the 2.5. I was checking out your build and I bet you'll be lighter than my last build, which weighed in at 1100lbs empty. Either way, I'm sure you won't have any problem towing with the Outback. There are quite a few people on here towing with 4cyl Outbacks and none of them have any problems.

Welcome to the Subaru Teardrop club!

[ryuandwings]

Yup, @ 150K its still running strong. Its actually a 2005 Outback 3.0, so it has a little bit more get-up-and-go than the 2.5. I was checking out your build and I bet you'll be lighter than my last build, which weighed in at 1100lbs empty. Either way, I'm sure you won't have any problem towing with the Outback. There are quite a few people on here towing with 4cyl Outbacks and none of them have any problems.

Welcome to the Subaru Teardrop club!

Thanks. I have 160K and still running strong. I hope to keep it going till everything falls a part.
Personally, I think Subarus look better with more stuff piled on top or behind. Kayak, bikes, roof cargo and cage, and now a camper!