Heater Install Done! UPDATED 10-27-13

[Rainier70]

Good to hear you survived some of our "cool" weather. I was out in some of that myself for 4 or 5 days this last week. Great fishing, but chilly when you are still crunching through ice on the shore at noon!

My floor is definitely a cold spot too. I am still debating on insulating from underneath, or going with some of the foam "puzzle" mat. http://www.homedepot.com/s/foam%2520flooring?NCNI-5

I might end up doing a bit of both. The only thing I am concerned about with the flooring is dirt getting down in the mat cracks and having to pull it up frequently to get it out.

[MtnDon]

The only thing I am concerned about with the flooring is dirt getting down in the mat cracks and having to pull it up frequently to get it out.

If you can't see dirt it is not there until it smalls bad.

[Gonefishin]

I'm definitely looking at some foam flooring. Someone on here recommended I try a foam backed carpet from Sears. Looks kinda like the home depot stuff, and I imagine there's lots out there. It should help. I think this is what they were talking about. http://www.sears.com/incstores-5-8-inch-eco-soft-foam-carpet-tile/p-SPM7295659502?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[lrrowe]

If you have the inside height to do it, how about adding sheet insulation under your carpet or even laminate flooring. Another alternative is to use the foam and plywood. I think OTTCT (or another forum member) has done it. I am thinking of order the extra 6 inch height so I can do something like this.

I will look forward to hearing about your results.

[Gonefishin]

These look cool, and the price seems reasonable/cheap. http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Flooring/dp/B003R2CIYY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_2 The Amazon buyer reviews are overwhelmingly positive.

I'd still put my throw rugs over these on the high traffic area near the door. I'll have to investigate. It will definitely affect my screen door opening inside, so would have to modify that a little too. Ceiling height is not a problem for me. At least I got heat to work on it in the winter!

[rowerwet]

you could carpet the whole inside, roof, floor and walls, to make it easier to heat/warmer

[Gonefishin]

you could carpet the whole inside, roof, floor and walls, to make it easier to heat/warmer

Yes, I could, and I could also remove the walls and ceiling and insulate with thicker/better insulation too. But where I'm at with my trailer is just an easy solution to stop a little cold from the floor and under my bed. My heater worked great in 20-degree temps. and I really won't camp much, if at all, when its any colder.

[Rainier70]

Jim, I've been reading on the Propane forum section on the evils of rubber hose inside a trailer. viewtopic.php?f=54&t=44545 Apparently they can be more prone to micro leaking. I don't have much of my line coming in, but from your pictures, if that is rubber, you have quite a bit more. You might consider a hard line to an outside fitting. At the very least a good battery operated LP detector. Just a heads-up. Stay safe, and hope the fishing is great this year!

[Gonefishin]

I have about 4 feet of rubber hose coming in to the furnace, but it clearly states on there it is for propane, and it is the line that came with the Dickinson heater. I need my line to be fairly flexible where it exits the trailer to the tank, so I'm not sure what the problem is with rubber propane line. I will definitely watch it for cracks though.

I've been camping in southern Colorado and northern New Mexico all this week, and it sure is nice to have that heater every night. it has been keeping the trailer about 30 degrees warmer than the outside temperature, & I have not installed my foam floor tiles yet, but they are at home and will be put in later this spring.

[Rainier70]

New hose so it should be good. I guess that the problem on rubber gas line is that the inner lining is the only gas impervious one, and you can't see it. When it cracks etc. the outer cover has tiny holes in it to let the gas escape so that it doesn't trap gas and bubble. Small leaks then are no big deal outside...inside could be a different story. If you start smelling a small leak..check the joints, but can be the main hose itself.

From what they were saying, on the other thread. The rubber hoses aren't supposed to be used inside. However, your stove and hose are for marine use and may be made different to a marine standard. The marine standard should be higher yet.

I can't do without my heater either. I am spoiled now!! I am also jealous on the fishing time you are getting in. I haven't got out since November. Too much Grandma duty this winter!

[Gonefishin]

It does have me thinking. I have been wanting to extend the hose so that it will reach into the bed of the pickup and I can leave the propane tank there, so maybe I will extend the hose from the heater to the outside using some kind of hard line and then use the rubber hose from there to the propane tank, having the rubber all outside. I don't have a place on the trailer to keep a tank, and I'm not enjoying lifting the tanks from the truck bed to the ground and back up. I have to do that enough when I exchange empties.

[Rainier70]

That is pretty much what I do. I have room for a tank mount, but we are currently trying to come up with a front mount that will do the spare, the tank, and the battery. Haven't got it built yet. No hurry though, having the tank in the back of the truck hasn't been a problem. Right now I do have a rubber hose running into the CT about 18 inches. When we get a hard line mounted under the trailer my stove connection will change, but might still have a short flexible hose or connector.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

A lot of the folks that RV with propane outdoor grills and stoves they like to use
outside use quick disconnects from the 'Hard' plumbing to the out door appliance.
you could just reverse the procedure...
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... qicheimd_b
Something to think about ...

hank

[lrrowe]

Hank,
That is what I do with my outside grill. I had a black pipe run out of the house to the grill area. Then I had a shutoff valve added with the quick disconnect next with a flexible tube running to my grill.

I can now move my grill around (small distance of course) with the flexible tubing and after each use, I turn the valve at the black pipe off. I never leave the flexible tubing under gas pressure when not in use.

I see no reason why this concept cannot work with a CT where the valve is added right before any flexible tubing is added. Then when one goes to bed, the valve could be shut off with no fear of gas leakage thru the flexible tubing. I am thinking of going in this direction unless others have inputs of why I should not do it.....maybe an issue that I did not think of.

Bob

[hankaye]

lrrowe, Howdy;

Just so you and I and anyone else reading this;
From Propane heater to outside hard pipe, something like this
http://www.propanewarehouse.com/propane ... -Flex-Line
for inside and black iron pipe for running through the frame to the front then a shut-off valve
and finally the QD.
Flex hose for the regulator at or near tank and to a QD to mate with the other QD.
That kinda' what you're thinkin' ?

hank