"The X-Cubed" C.T.T.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

As I mentioned previously, the bottom of the floor needed to have recesses drilled in it at all the frames bolts. I picked up a set of forstner bits after work today, which gave my recesses a nice flat clean finish. After drilling them, I flipped the floor over and they all aligned perfectly!



Also, because of the way the trailer kits fit together, skinny spacers needed to be cut to go on top of the crossmembers so the floor sits completely flat. I used the same 5.0mm (3/16") plywood underlayment that I'm using everywhere else.



Once I got the floor fitted back in place, I worked on the rear section of the floor. Its hard to see whats going on here, but this is the angled bottom edge of the galley floor, where the hatch seals against. Better pictures to come.



And after the rear section of the floor was finished, I could move on to insulation!



All thats left to do is skin the top, paint the underside with asphalt fence post paint, and then its onto the wall framing.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

More progress tonight!

I pulled the wheels and started the "skirt" panels around the edge of the floor. These help space the walls out from the frame and will end up giving me an extra 3/8" width inside the cabin. It also helps the walls miss the end of the tongue rails where they stick out from the side just a little bit. These pieces get put on before the top skin, because the top skin will be routed out to the full size of the cabin floor.



Once the "skirt" panels were finished, it was finally time to skin! After the galley floor was glued and brad-nailed in place, I mocked up the galley wall (3/16" ply, 3/4" framing", 3/16" ply) so I could be sure the cabin floor sections would be in the right place. Once I was satisfied I cut the panel openings for the battery and wire access.



Then I glued and brad-nailed the front section of the cabin floor into place, clamped the middle section in place, and ran the router around the outside edge of all the floor panels. The middle section of floor (with the panel openings) isn't glued down quite yet. I need to coat the bottom of the floor with the asphalt paint before I can install the battery cage. And the battery cage needs to be bolted to the floor before I install that section of skin.



Just might have to start framing the walls this weekend.

[KCStudly]

Rapid pace. Great planning. Good job. Keep at it.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Thanks KC! Most people don't realize how much time I spend planning. This thing has been in the design phase since the end of August and the drawings have been revised and refined constantly up until about 3 weeks ago. I'm definitely not one to just go out and wing-it. I have a lot of respect for those who can do that, but that's definitely not me!

When I was helping my buddy design and build his, we never drew up a tongue box for it. Once the build was underway, he decided he wanted to add one on the fly. I about had a panic attack.

[jbyrd]

You can really tell how much planning you put into this, just by looking at the floor.
I am really looking forward to seeing your trailer take shape. It's a very interesting design.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

You can really tell how much planning you put into this, just by looking at the floor.
I am really looking forward to seeing your trailer take shape. It's a very interesting design.

Thanks Jeremy

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Did a little shopping at Home Depot on my lunch break today. This should keep me busy for at least a little while.



Should be enough wood there for both side walls, the trolley-top sections, and the bulkhead.

[jbyrd]

Dat's a nice pile of wood!!!!

[pohukai]

Are those 1x3s oak or poplar? They look nice and clear.

[Kharn]

You make working with angle iron sound so easy.
I'll give it another go in the morning when I can use my angle grinder to cut it in my driveway vs my jigsaw that just shook my workbench half to death. Dan convinced me to go for dual batteries under the floor.

ETA: Angle grinder beats angle iron every time.
Also I found out my other big mistake was cutting at the exact measured location, instead of always cutting through the middle of a hole or slot and living with being a little long, which made none of the holes line up.

[be_a_jayhawk]

Wow you move so fast but have such an eye for details! It's going to be a sweet trailer for sure.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Are those 1x3s oak or poplar? They look nice and clear.

Nope, they're just the cheap "whitewood" from Home Depot. They're a step above the furring strips, but not quite the finished pine boards. It was tough to find straight ones, and they do have quite a few knots. They're all going to be covered with the plywood skins so I wasn't too concerned about the appearance.

You make working with angle iron sound so easy.
I'll give it another go in the morning when I can use my angle grinder to cut it in my driveway vs my jigsaw that just shook my workbench half to death. Dan convinced me to go for dual batteries under the floor.

ETA: Angle grinder beats angle iron every time.
Also I found out my other big mistake was cutting at the exact measured location, instead of always cutting through the middle of a hole or slot and living with being a little long, which made none of the holes line up.

If you get a metal blade for the jigsaw and hold it still with a vice it should cut just fine. Yeah I guess I should have mentioned cutting in the middle of holes or slots. Definitely makes assembly a lot easier.

Wow you move so fast but have such an eye for details! It's going to be a sweet trailer for sure.

Thanks! Planning ahead definitely make things move faster. This is also my third build (not including helping my friend and his wife build one) so a little experience helps too.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Such a nice day today! Pulled the trailer out of the garage and got the bottom covered in 3 coats of the Black Beauty asphalt fence post paint. It dried really fast since it was in the sun and so warm.



After it was dry, my buddy helped flip the floor and we adhered it to the frame using an asphalt based flashing caulk. No mechanical fasteners hold the floor on the frame.

Then we bolted the battery cage to the underside with carriage bolts. Perfect fit.



Right now, its only about 6" from the ground, but once I get the 15" wheels then I'll end up with about 9.5" of ground clearance.



Once the battery cage was bolted in place, we put the last piece of the floor skin in place.

Then tonight we got most of the wall framing pieces cut. Might start assembly tomorrow, but now its time for a beer or 4.

[Kharn]

I'd really think about using some carriage bolts to hold the deck down on the frame.

[wisdan92]

Carriage bolts on the deck are unnecessary. It is adhered to the frame with asphalt caulk for roof flashing. The floor will be trapped in place by the rear galley bulkhead and side walls which will be bolted to the frame rails.