The Plan ... so far

[madjack]

Eski, "taping the seams" is a process where you use a strip of fibergalss cloth and lay it to cover the edge seam and epoxy it in place....
madjack

p.s. I am not a fibergalss guru, so you might wanna aquire more specific info from them...I really don't like working with FG...gimme aluminum any day...

[GPW]

I, unfortunately have a little experience with Fglas , my brother owned a body shop , so I got to "play " there as much as I could ... Built quite a few Kustom Vans from scratch ... Fun stuff , some time ago ...

What I was looking for was edge resolution .... Seems like all my projects eventually get a little weary around the EDGES and the decay sets in from there.... Ha!!! Sounds like old age .....hahahahahahaha
Anyway , I'm using a 6 0z/sq. yd. Fglas tape .. 4" wide...also a "system epoxy " made for this kind of stuff . I've cleaned and sanded the surface and rounded the edge of the seam .... Wiped it down with a rag and vacuumed it off. I mix the epoxy in SMALL batches thoroughly, apply to the wood seam a little larger than the tape on both sides of the edge with a disposable brush (foamie)... lay the cloth tape on some heavy plastic sheeting (Visquene) and use the same brush to "wet" the cloth with resin .Apply the wetted cloth and smooth out with a stiff brush (it'll get stiffer) or my favorite a simple automotive squeegee (plastic) till it's smooth . let cure thoroughly , sand the rough spots (no matter how ya' try ) prime and paint ...
NOTICE: I try to do this in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA+FAN ...viz. OUTSIDE, wearing gloves and a light chem mask ... Epoxy fumes are dangerous, and are cumulative in the body .... NOT GOOD ... TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS... if you take care , no troubles...
...On the other hand it is pretty quick , seals as well as strengthens the edges, and you don't have to punch holes in the edge (more potential for eventual leakage /rot ...) But It doesn't have "that look ...???

I know , I know !!! Why did I use that nasty old expensive epoxy and not the much cheaper Polyester resin ....
1. the poly seems to not stick as well to wood...
2. the epoxy is FLEXIBLE , much more so than the somewhat brittle Poly .... subject to vibrations/whatever the td will be better served by the flexibility of the epoxy ...
3. It's much more expensive , you can brag to your friends...
4. especially if it's summer , get the Slow hardener, gives you a little working time

Hope that helps a bit .... !!!!

[GPW]

Yesterday , I went over to my part time consulting job , and it was SUSHI day ...My Pal Vinney , is a sculptor , works in guess what , fiberglass (had a resin sculpture company , that's before I taught him to make guitars) He told me to apply(and wet the cloth ) the resin with a nappy roller of the appropriate width .... I went to the Wal-Mart and got a 3" trim roller , and 3 mini roller replacement packs (2 each pack )... seemed real easy , and just toss the rollers when they turn to rock ....I'll try his method this time ...gotta' learn from the pros ....

Ps he also loaned me his threaded roller for getting out all the air bubbles, I've been using a plastic squeege for years , I'll have to try this too ...

[Miriam C.]

GPW

Ps he also loaned me his threaded roller for getting out all the air bubbles, I've been using a plastic squeege for years , I'll have to try this too ...

hummmm, Now what do you suppose a threaded roller is

Thanks for the info on best way to lay the cloth.
Miriam

[apratt]

It is a roller with a bunch of grooves in it, resemble somewhat like a threaded bolt.

[GPW]

Yes , and it wasn't really much needed, either ... it's only really effective when the resin starts to thicken ...another ten spot down the hole...
My helper BOB showed up and we fiberglassed the seams .... actually turned out to be VERY easy ... We both wore cheap food service plastic gloves , and only got a little sticky . The nappy 3" trim roller worked perfectly , not only to wet the surface but the cloth tape also . We found out by pulling the tape as we went , it'd conform easily to the TD curvature. our only temptation was to keep going and roll out the entire surface , over cloth and wood . Didn't , but would have been really easy while we were set up ... crumbs for thought ...The resin was mixed in a 99 cent plastic bowl that I stole from the cupboard, the mixer was a bamboo cooking chopstick from the same location ... hahahahahahahaha
We were very fortunate that soon after the resin hardened , it rained(naturally !!!) , but we got it covered up before the water could get to it ...The process was fairly easy , but a 2 man job .... time spent 1 1/2 hrs. Not Bad !!! seams look good , the edges are glued down and weathertight ...all I have to do now is sand the edges (feather) after it's cured , and prime .... My sculptor pal tells me Kilz sticks like crazy to the epoxy ... I wonder if it's the alcohol or water based Kilz...???

ps before I ever paint anything over epoxy , I always sand it lightly and wipe it down with a de waxer/ degreaser... for better adhesion ...
Tomorrow , the thinned poly bath ...

[GPW]

Poly bath done .... worked fine , as expected from previous results ... went to the paint store , got the paint , primer , trim color , and interior and galley colors(oil based for outside , Latex for in ) ... ready to start painting .... first a good light scuffing of the epoxy areas , an acetone wipe , and prime ...the whole thing , followed by some more selective caulking ...Pics asap ... Hope it doesn't rain today ...

[mikeschn]

I've often wondered why no one based their teardrop off of this design...



Especially in hurricane prone areas...

BTW, GPW, you've probably already seen this, but for those of us who haven't...



Mike...

[RAYVILLIAN]

GPW
Probably the alcohol the base it works good in most cases. I'm not impressed with the water base it doesn't even do a good job of covering water stains on ceilings. Though I've heard that latex paint does stick good to epoxy I used gloss oilbase floor paint in the Warrior. and it has stood up good for the year I've had him.
GAry

[GPW]

Seen it , been there.... that's why I'm so diligently working away here.... Nice pic , got plans, just what we need !!!! ???

Ray , Love the Warrior and the whole concept ..... COOL

TD primed and caulked on the inside , just like a good house paint job ...now the outside ... Guys , really !!! Thanks for all the assistance/advise !!!!! Looking like we're on time .... so far ...

[GPW]

Rainy looking this AM .... no painting yet , so we're going to build the simple "lightweight " electrical system ... that is , until we can get the paint out ....

[GPW]

Using the Stealth approach to getting the outside primed and painted.....sneak out between the raining periods and paint what you can , after a little sun drying of course .... Primer sticking VERY well to the epoxy , no problamo...No pics until I get a coat of base white over the whole thing .... Today ...weather permitting ...Oil based paints working well as expected... Funny thing though , everytime I paint on the TD , I keep thinking of pickle juice ?????????????

[GPW]

On Painting outside ... Got the TD primed in the morning , by noon applied the oil base white to the entire outside, rolled it on with a nappy roller , gave it a slight texture which I wanted...Looked GREAT , no problem , EXCEPT... seems like every bug /flying buzzy thing / leaves/ dirt / etc. decided to jump on the slow drying oil based enamel (5-10 hrs ) ... I hope it just wipes off now dry .... If I'm LUCKY !!!! If too bad I can probably wait till it hardens well , and lightly wet sand the "bugs " out of it , then polish /buff... ???

[GPW]

Well ,after the paint had finally dried , a wet towel , and a quick pass removed most of the bugs ,resulting in a nice finish . I really like the slight texture created by the roller (nappy ) ... Thanks Mike !!!!
Got the inside painted , the door , the galley , all gloss latex over latex prime ... very nice simple finish that I can embelish after hurricane season ... all the painting done except the outer trim and fenders .... Ready to start final assembly ... hinges , vent ,that kind of stuff...Pics as soon as the coffee takes hold ...

[GPW]

Following Mad Jacks recommendation for test fitting everything ...seems to be a "good thing "...Found a small closet rod (clothes pole ) in my closet that would be perfect for making MJ's gasless struts...steel , telescoping , way long enough , probably don't even have to cut it .... and very cheap .... now what about those end attachments ...??????? and where am I gonna' hang those clothes ...

All my pals telling me to put running lights all over the trailer (cause' it's so BIG ) How many lights do I need ??? Reflectors ... I'm a hair over 8' wide ...

15 days left .... I might just make it !!! Yipee!!!!

as promised pics soon ...

continuing with the long range plan , so far .... (after June 1) Got the plans all drawn out for an 8 footer , 54" wide. That's because the boat trailer I have (#2) is that wide. Was going to make a 48" but don't know if it's been done on a WIDER frame??? ......
Really simple and practical for all kinds of jobs /applications...Back door w/porch , only one small profile cut on the side ... sorta a work and camp TD .... I only have some rough drawings right now , should I scan them to the album ???