Hidden AC unit... Will this work?

[RandyG]

I ran mine for the first time for a few hours the other day. It's mount under the galley counter in a box with the back open. It cooled very well the whole time but my box is really big and seams like wasted space. The more I read this thread, the more I lean towards the slider method. I'm not affraid of a good 'problem solving' challenge but all that ductwork and space could be used for other additions. Thanks citylights for pulling my head out of... thanks for showing me the light.

[citylights]

I ran mine for the first time for a few hours the other day. It's mount under the galley counter in a box with the back open. It cooled very well the whole time but my box is really big and seams like wasted space. The more I read this thread, the more I lean towards the slider method. I'm not affraid of a good 'problem solving' challenge but all that ductwork and space could be used for other additions. Thanks citylights for pulling my head out of... thanks for showing me the light.

Happy to be the voice of reason!

[cooterdude]

alot of newer ac units use condenced water off of the cold side to cool the rear hot side their are no drains in the outer case they use the rear fan to sling water over the coils in the outside part of the unit
they get realy messy and could cause water dammage so check to see if it is that stile or not they usualy have a solid ring of plastic around the rear fan to sling water

[working on it]

When I bought a windowshaker A/C for my trailer, I specifically looked to buy an LG brand. As I related in another, earlier thread (specifically the highlighted sentence):

I bought a LG 5012j A/C unit yesterday, to be permanently mounted thru the wall between the sleeping area and the galley/storage area. It will be mounted in a galleyside sealed box with ambient air intake (for the chassis cooling) and exhausted air with separate vents to the outside. The system can run with the hatch closed (park 110v powered), but the hatch will need to be open for the slide-out generator to power it. I also have 4 window A/C units at home (replaced the inefficient un-"zoned" central unit), used as "zoned" and time/temp variable units. I'm in the country and appearances don't matter here/ to me. They are of different BTU ratings and brands. My question is this: some don't have any overflow of the water condensation, so no outside drip-over...some do (a lot). The model I purchased LG 5012j doesn't come with a drip/drain tube attachment like it's brother the LG 5012(no "j") , do I need to make a drain or drip-pan ? (paraphrased by me)

What I am referring to is that my "home" LG a/c (with a drain), doesn't drip, whereas the Frigidaires (3 of them, of two different sizes) all have drain tubes, and still gush water over the sides. I've never noticed any with the LG, so I sought out an LG for the trailer, wanting minimal water drainage. The model I bought at that time has never produced any excess water (I built and installed a drainage system for it anyway, never has had a drip to catch yet..., although my particular routing may evaporate any excess water before it has a chance to drip...), though it (and the aforementioned LG, and Frigidaires) are all working great. So, if you want a "non-messy, dripless" unit, try the LG 5012j , if you can find one.

• LG 5012j
• (virgin), never dripped-on drip pan