Thank you all so much for inflating my ego with the compliments, but let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. I do feel that I have come a long way with my wood working, but I’m not a master carpenter like Norm. Everything is relative to how close you look and how much time you spend. For the amount of time I have spent you may have to look a little closer and spend a little more time, but we all know where the boo boos are on TPCE.
There are plenty of builders here that put my work into perspective, and make their effort’s look a lot easier in doing so. To paraphrase Mel, I wouldn’t want to arrive at my first outing and find myself camped next to anything that Hodder touched; I really admire Woodbutcher’s work on the Slowmobile; there’s the Atma; and many others that are much more refined. That is the beauty of this forum, everyone has something to contribute and we all inspire each other to do good things.
Thanks for noticing.
Okay, let’s look at what I did tonight. First I stayed after work a little bit to do the bearing modification on the lid support for the locker door. Here is a better pic of the strut end that mounts to the inside of the case. You can see that there is an offset bend (which was crooked and needed to be straightened) which is intended to keep the bar from dragging on the inside of the case. In the end there is a hole for the screw. So the strut would have pivoted on the screw threads and you wouldn’t really be able to tighten the screw; it would just loosen itself and/or cause the strut to drag on the face of the wood. Also shown is one of the nylon bushings that I bought separately. (The dial caliper under the head of the screw is just there to prop it up for the picture.)

By drilling the hole in the strut larger and making a T-shaped bushing out of the nylon that is slightly longer than the strut is thick, I should be able to tighten the screw all the way down without pinching the strut, and the flange of the bushing will keep the strut from dragging on the side of the case. The fabricated nylon washer shown under the head of the screw ended up being replaced with a thinner stainless washer, but ends up coming into play again later.


I was right about the hinges throwing things out of spec for the lid support mounting locations. It took several iterations with the mockup to figure out where the ends wanted to be, and I learned that very small variations in screw locations had a big effect in how the strut behaved. Too much separation between the mount points when closed and the folded hinge middle part of the strut could hit the back of the door frame keeping it from closing fully. Move one screw a tiny bit and now the elbow of the strut swings way into the case. I did get the mockup working good tho.



This is a “Left Hand” support used on the left hand side, but it seems to swing backwards to me in this application. For a blanket chest or toy box where the lid is horizontal when closed and vertical when open it makes sense for the left hand, but in hindsight, for this application I think a Right Hand unit would have been better. I think that would have made the elbow of the strut fold up near the hinge instead of down, but no worries; it will work fine.
I took it apart and measured the centers of the final holes for reference purposes.

I count 7 holes to get this end right, and at least 3 pair at the other end.


The head of the screw had to stay below flush with the side of the strut to clear the other end when folded, so I went with the SS washer under the head of the screw, but when I realized I was really close to the trim with just the T-bushing, I added the other nylon washer underneath as a spacer; a little thicker than it needs to be.

I might just take another shot at machining a one piece bushing now that I know what it wants.
The stupid thing is that after all of this trial and error, and success and careful measuring, when I went to transfer the info to the real parts the side pivot hole location was off nearly 1/4 inch. With Karl acting as a second set of hands, we set my head lamp up inside of the locker, and closed the door. With me sighting in thru the far side gap between the door and case (the gap will later get filled with the side trim) guiding Karl, and Karl reaching blindly thru the opening in the well section to stick a pencil thru the bushing we were able to make an educated adjustment to the final location for the case side pivot point.
I’m still glad I bothered doing the mockup. I had a much better idea of what needed to be adjusted, how changes would respond, and how touchy the accuracy was. In the end I got what I wanted. The door opens to 90 deg and closes; the one extra hole in the side of the case will get filled and covered by the vinyl; and I didn’t have to put any extra holes in the maple door frame. I do have to remember to reinforce the screw hole in the pine case with CA glue, otherwise I think it will wallow out in time.


And one more pic just for good measure.
