Aluminum Frame RD

[aggie79]

The table is 1/8 H34, it flexes a little but the leg will help a bunch. If needed I will bend a thin 'hat channel' to run down the middle but it won't, ok, shouldn't ever have that much weight on it.

Randy,

Instead of a hat channel, how about using a C-channel with the flat against and down the underside centerline of the table. With this arrangment the table leg would be nested within the channel legs while in travel mode. A pin at the aft end of the channel through the top of the leg would give you a hinged mounting point for the leg. Or maybe you could affix hinged table leg hardware at this point.

Tom

[RandyG]

Thanks Tom, you're getting me closer with the C, how bout the C hugs the hat while in transport and the C is the leg. What? That made sense to me but anyone else, not so sure.
How's bout a pic...

Ok so the plywood will be a door hinged at the bottom, when down it lets the ac still come out.
The scrap piece of Al will be a C channel connected with a hinge at the top, while in transit it will hug the Hat channel going down the middle of the table( it's not there yet).
Where the sharpie is, will be some sort of socket that allows the leg to come out and fold into the table for storage.

I know this is over thinking it but I didn't want to have an adjustable leg incase the camp grounds are uneven, by legging this way there's no need for adjustment.

[KCStudly]

... by legging this way there's no need for adjustment.

I had the same idea for my side wing tables; two tables one on each side parallel to the galley counter sticking out to the sides. I plan on having a clip attached at the base of each wall that the table strut will perch on, and perhaps be pinned to with a quick pin. Each strut completes a triangle between the outer end of its table and the base of the wall. I will be using a pair of old wooden crutches cut down to a wishbone shape for my struts; two mounting pivots under the outer end of each table and one point at the base of each wall.

How do you plan to support the fold down door in front of the A/C? It looks like all of the load will be trying to tear your hinge open.

What if the A/C door swung to the side parallel or near parallel to the wall with the hinge vertical. You could have a socket (short length of square or round tubing) attached to the inside of the door. The table strut (perhaps round or square) could skew to the side and a crook in the end of the strut could slide into the socket. This would make the strut and the door act like a single rigid member and the load from the table would be directed straight (or more straight) into the hinge.

Is the door needed for other purposes, or is it just an attempt at a solution for the table support? If the door is not required, you could make a round strut formed into a graceful curved shape, like a shallow 'J', similar to the flat piece you show, but longer so that it slips under the extended A/C. The trick is storing it; by making a swivel joint where it attaches to the hinge point under the table, the strut could be turned and folded flat against the bottom of the table.

[RandyG]

The fold down door is not needed but I want it for a clean look when I open the galley and that door will be supported by a triangle hinge setup. It can't open sideways cause the ac drawer slides will be blocked.
So far this is the plan, let's see how it goes.

[capnTelescope]

How's bout a pic...

That's even simpler than my idea, but better.

[RandyG]

I'm thinking the doors will be Al with Al trim molding, another 'thinking outside the box' trial.

[RandyG]

I have all of the stiles and rails made for the galley doors, it was two big radias bends to make a joggle then another tight bend for the edge. Will get them cut and trimmed tomorrow and start on the panels. I think the trim will be painted and leave the panels bare al. With the rivet heads shining over the paint should look pretty cool.
I almost forgot to leave room for the hinges, one side of the hinge rivets will have to be countersunk so the doors can close.
Hopefully have all of the galley done this week so I can work something else this weekend. LCG is sneaking up!

[RandyG]

I got my doors almost done, sorry no pics cause we're not ' supposed to' take our phones in the shop. I tried to cut a lip off the edge to make room for the hinge and snapped it, no biggie, just make another tomorrow.
They are not going to fit like I wanted but will still be nice, it's just how the hinge will work, they won't be flush when closed. I guess I would have to buy flush mounted cabinet hinges but I'm not sure how they would mount on the Al. Measure once and cut once, doesn't fit, repeat.

[RandyG]

I had also been thinking about the galley hatch latch, I hear some have problems with the T latch because you have to push on both sides while turning the handle. Has anyone thought of using deadlatches from regular household door knobs in conjunction with the T handle? Sound crazy? So crazy it just might work.

[Gunguy05]

I had also been thinking about the galley hatch latch, I hear some have problems with the T latch because you have to push on both sides while turning the handle. Has anyone thought of using deadlatches from regular household door knobs in conjunction with the T handle? Sound crazy? So crazy it just might work.

I'm just going to use a handle of some sort (I have seen boat handles used), something that I can find in stainless steel probably. I will then use draw latched on the sides. I figure that will be the simplest way to open it, and then keep it shut either on the road, or locked when away from the trailer/storage.

I looked at the T latches, but decided that was just another detail that I didn't want to have to work out. This route seems pretty idiot proof.. which I am needing these days.

[KCStudly]

Not sure, but IIRC I think Grant Whipp uses spring loaded bolts with cables routed to a central T-handle. The T-handle pulls the cables to retract both bolts, but the bolts can each snap into their striker individually. I can't remember if he made his own bolts or if they were off the shelf.

[RandyG]

Here's door number 1 done and ready for install

And the fold down leg, still needs to be riveted to the table and cleaned up

Looks like I got something to do this weekend!

[KCStudly]

That's looking really nice.

Have you, or do you intend to work in any dimple die lightening holes anywhere? Maybe exposed hatch ribs?

[RandyG]

Thank you Sir, I haven't planned on adding anything with lightning holes, could be a stylish addition. I already have the hatch ribs cut out and making aircraft style ribs as thin as I need would be tricky, so that's out. I'm trying not to add too much right now, just want to get the basics done and get it campable for LCG, I should be working on windows and a door right now. I can always redo something I have bigger plans for later.

[RandyG]

So a minor set back, I don't have any countersunk rivets for the top of the table and I messed up on the fold down leg.
Here it is temp installed with a few buttonhead rivets, and the twine used for the door can't handle any weight at all.

And folded up, the hinge to leg joint also needs countersunk rivets so it will sit flat.

I messed up on the leg cause, for whatever reason dumb me thought the center of the door and the center of the leg were lined up, which they are not! So when the leg came down it was off by about 4". That's what happens when I build parts away from the trailer and expect it to fit, I can't fit as I go. But there is a solution, put the hinge at an angle. I still have to remake the leg though