Citylights' Tear - SOLD! - update 08-01-16

[working on it]

I got a 3500# dexter springs and axle quote from a local trailer parts supply store, $360. They agree that I should go with the 3500# rating. I get to install it all.

With or without the electric brakes? Your FJ doesn't need the help, but if at some future time, you need to use a less-capable TV, then you'd probably wish you had installed them. I currently tow with a Chevy 2500HD (in the future, I envisage a smaller TV), and the brakes aren't even needed, but I adjusted them and used them on my last trip anyway (I learned that applying just the trailer brakes can momentarily reduce sway or shimmy- which my trailer doesn't do-, just in case the trailer ever manifests these symptoms, so I have a use for the brakes-now- after all). And now's the best time to add brakes...let Dexter do it!
I got the Dexter 3500# axle as well, but the springs (3000 lbs) were purchased along with hanger kits from Northern Tool. I had to make a new "frame work", in advance, to hold the axle, so I could determine the proper dimension axle to order; otherwise, I would've opted for the complete package. The install was easy; but I made very sure that I didn't overtighten the shackles this time, so there will be no repeat of my first axle/frame mishap.

[citylights]

I got a 3500# dexter springs and axle quote from a local trailer parts supply store, $360. They agree that I should go with the 3500# rating. I get to install it all.

With or without the electric brakes?

No brakes. Honestly, I just don't want to mess with them. My teardrop will always have to be towed with a truck, or mid-to large size car. No economy or mini cars for my teardrop. At 1750 lb, it would be a real pain for anything underpowered to tow. If I get my way, I will always have a 4WD to tow it with anyway.

The good news is that in my 250 mile trip home from Ely to Las Vegas towing the trailer and being careful of the strapped axle, I went about 55 MPH the whole way, and got 20 mpg. That's great for my FJ. In town I usually get 17 mpg. On the freeway going 75 or so, I also get 17.

[nhstt]

[quote="citylights"]More progress.

Working on changing out my trailer tongue. Making it 2 feet longer to accommodate a 10 foot teardrop on an 8 foot trailer bed. I think my tongue weight just got 18 lb heavier by going from 1/8 inch steel to 3/16ths.



I built over the frame also on my 4x4 frame from Harbor Freight- not sure how to find a tongue extension here in N.H., any ideas on who would have these also how far inside the old frame should the extension go to make it strong. this will be bolted not soldered.
Karen and the Brooks bunch

[nhstt]

Where in NH? I may have some contacts that will help out with the cut.

That would be great! I work in Rochester and live in New Durham. Any help in locating someone would be big. I
want to get it done and camp-able as soon as I can.
Karen and the Brooks Bunch

[nhstt]

Search for "steel suppliers NH" or even closer to your area.

Here is the first one that came up for me.
http://www.cohensteel.com/

Thanks for the help, if I can't find on in Rochester I'll try them that's just about 40min away.
Do I just measure the inside of the exising tongue to get the right fit? at 2ft exposed how much inside do I need would 3 over all be enough or should it be longer?
Karen and the Brooks Bunch

[KCStudly]

I can't really speak to a specific mfg's trailer, but when extending an existing single member tongue, most people (and the best way to do it is) replace the stock tongue with a longer stronger piece of steel. If the original 2nd xmbr is too close to the front and too wimpy (like City Lights and Bob Henry's) they will sometimes extend the new tongue back to the next xmbr (or even all the way to the rear bumper to include receiver for bike, table or umbrella mount), as well as extending it forward.

Any kind of slip on/slip in extension will create a stress point at the overlap point, and I would not recommend that.

On (IIRC) the HF A-frame style tongue some people have gotten away with just adding a short extension attached to the factory coupler/tie plate (the tie plate is a robust junction on that style trailer, but the better method is to extend the central tongue back at least to the second xmbr.

[citylights]

most people (and the best way to do it is) replace the stock tongue with a longer stronger piece of steel. If the original 2nd xmbr is too close to the front and too wimpy (like City Lights and Bob Henry's) they will sometimes extend the new tongue back to the next xmbr (or even all the way to the rear bumper to include receiver for bike, table or umbrella mount), as well as extending it forward.

Dang! I wish I would have thought of that! I could have extended mine all the way through to the back for a rear receiver. In addition to the added utility it would have really strengthened my trailer. Hmmm fodder for if I ever build another.

I removed my original trailer tongue, which was only bolted in, and bolted in the longer one. I ended up reinforcing it at the 2nd cross member by bolting my second cross member through to my drop storage box with extra large washers. My drop box is 3/4 plywood. It's not elegant, but it is strong and works well.

[Tommy2tone_1999]

great looking Tear. Love the BenRoy profile

[citylights]

great looking Tear. Love the BenRoy profile

Thanks! Benroy shape has worked out great for me!

[citylights]

I had a detailed conversation with my local trailer supply. The heaviest rated springs I can get with my 20.25 inch spring hanger spacing is 1400# each for a total rating of 2800#. That is a little short of the 3500# that I wanted. I can still get the 3500# rated axle and wheel hubs no problem.

The only other choice is to move my spring hanger to a 25.25 inch spacing. Moving the spring hanger, or installing a new one involves welding... I would have to remove a some of my teardrop lower aluminum trim, and remove the teardrop from the frame, to expose the frame well enough to have it welded. That would be a significant effort.

I am going with the 1400# springs and some well placed bump stops. I think that will get me everything except serious off-roading with the teardrop. The new plan is to tow the teardrop to a base camp. No problem if that involves dirt or gravel roads. Drop the teardrop there and continue with an offroad trip without the trailer. This will do at least 95% of what I wanted. The remaining 5%, say a overland offroad trip from camp to camp towing the trailer is out.

[citylights]

New suspension parts arrived. Install scheduled for this Friday.

[KCStudly]

Have you got somebody lined up to weld the spring perches to the axle?

[citylights]

Have you got somebody lined up to weld the spring perches to the axle?

Do I have too? My understanding is that without trailer brakes, welding the perches is optional.

[aggie79]

Have you got somebody lined up to weld the spring perches to the axle?

Do I have too? My understanding is that without trailer brakes, welding the perches is optional.

You need some method to fix the location of the perches. Some axles have a "pin" that locates the perch adequately enough when couple with the leaf spring U-bolts. If your axle doesn't have "pins" then the axle can rotate (changing wheel/tire camber) and/or the axle position can shift relative to the perch locations.

[KCStudly]

I wouldn't go without it.