Beginner introduction and pre purchase questions

[khigh]

Hi all from Metro Atlanta - caught the trailer bug recently and I'm in the pre-planning stages.

I was originally looking at 5x8 because I want something as small and light as possible, but I'm very tall. The normal Craigslist variety 5x8 is 5 feet tall on the inside and I don't think I could abide even just trying to load and unload and get in and out of bed, so I'll go with new and a height extension. Then I figure 5x10 is only about $125 more so since I'm not just specifically trying to challenge myself for the heck of it, I'll buy the extra 2' and get a free V-Nose (Oh - does having the V slant down buy me any gas mileage or anything?)

Well then you get in to features - insulation is SUPER reasonable on a new build and it keeps me from dinking around outside in a toaster oven in Georgia July/August trying to hit the Sept. campout.

Speaking of Georgia - what's up with Douglas, GA? How are they the trailer capital of the world? That's just kind of weird. Pretty much for custom trailers you can buy one anywhere you want as long as it's in Douglas.

Anyway - if I don't do the insulation, am I going to be behind the curve on getting it wired? The place offers 110v outlets if you get their electrical package, but I don't think I need that - it's a 50 amp panel. I'm looking at hooking up to a 2K generator, so their thing is overkill at best and likely not even usable. Plus I want a lot of 12V. I about 90% want the AC for A/C (and battery charging) and then 12V for lights, fans, charging, radio, etc.

That brings me to what kind of interface do I need? I'll MAYBE put in a second outlet, but even with one I want something marginally more elegant than a drop cord through the roof vent or some such. Maybe something upgradeable to campground power, but not limited to it. The generator I'm looking at only has 15A outlets.

Then back to wiring - do I have to pull off all the walls? If I do it kind of negates paying for the insulation.

I think that's it for now - I think I'm in need of a "CT Conversion Wiring for Dummies" resource.

Thanks for looking!

Kevin

[Erikh425]

Welcome.

I'll start by addressing the Douglas factory. I picked up a trailer from there just a couple weeks ago. They were great to deal with. This is the second trailer I have picked up in 2 months. They make a ton of trailers out of there, so your mileage may vary, but I would buy from them again in a heartbeat.

I insulated my trailer when I got it home with foam board insulation. It wasn't hard at all, just tedious to unscrew and rescrew everything inside of a black trailer in the Southeast GA weather.

Which brings me to the next point, screwing. There are many was to screw the interior panels to the frame. The way that they usually do it is to use some type of a nail/pop rivet that will attach the panel, and has a screw type head, but won't come out. If you get this type of fastener you will hate it. I ordered mine with a special note to use real screws to fasten the panels. They still use two of the other type per panel, but I just pried those out no problem. So my advice is to order with screw type fasteners for sure.

As far as the wiring goes, they run the wiring from the factory along the very top corner edge. my plan is to fashion a panel to cover this up. With that being said, it should be pretty easy to run you auxiliary wires along the same route and then just drop them down behind the panels where you need them. If you know you are going to be installing an AC unit, it may be advantageous to get them to run the wiring for you, but I am moving to MN so I didn't look into that too much.

The upgrades I went with were windows, tires, and extra height. I am 6-2 and the standard 6-3 roof was fine, but the crank for the vent and the lower section of the back door were going to be killers on my head. I had them add 6" and it is awesome. It is less claustrophobic and I don't have to worry about hitting my head on anything. I also had them increase the height of the rear door entry. Make sure you check that box or you will end up with added interior height, but a razor edge head slicer at the doorway.

That's my $.02
Erik

[khigh]

Welcome.
I'll start by addressing the Douglas factory. I picked up a trailer from there just a couple weeks ago. They were great to deal with. This is the second trailer I have picked up in 2 months. They make a ton of trailers out of there, so your mileage may vary, but I would buy from them again in a heartbeat.

That's the thing, though - it's not just ONE factory. EVERY custom builder I've encountered has been in Douglas

http://diamondcargo.com/Default.aspx
http://www.usacargotrailersales.com/
http://www.southerntrailerdepot.com/

The last of those is who I'm looking at now.

[dustboy]

Just about everything they will bill you for, you can do better and cheaper, with the exception maybe of an RV door.

I would do as much of the wiring as you can yourself. They run wires by punching a ragged hole through the frame, MAYBE a dab of caulk to prevent chafing. You will do it right, of course, neatly, with grommets, better quality wire and spare wires (for future gadgets, you know you'll need them!). Plus then, you can put your lights and outlets where you want them. Trust me, you will be pulling off all the wall panels anyway, and it really isn't difficult unless they use those cursed nails (with a screw head, WTF).

Definitely go for the V-nose, it doesn't really do much for aerodynamics but the amount of interior space you will gain is tremendous.

[Erikh425]

Welcome.
I'll start by addressing the Douglas factory. I picked up a trailer from there just a couple weeks ago. They were great to deal with. This is the second trailer I have picked up in 2 months. They make a ton of trailers out of there, so your mileage may vary, . t I would buy from them again in a heartbeat.

That's the thing, though - it's not just ONE factory. EVERY custom builder I've encountered has been in Douglas

http://diamondcargo.com/Default.aspx
http://www.usacargotrailersales.com/
http://www.southerntrailerdepot.com/

The last of those is who I'm looking at now.

I think it is just the one factory. When you show up they ask you who you bought it from. I bought mine from cargooutlet.com in Brunswick, so they pulled out the cargo outlet folder and found my trailers. I know that I saw diamond cargo amd USA cargo stickers and temp tags on trailers leaving the lot. Maybe I am mistaken, but I think they build trailers and vendors sell them under their own name.

[jwhite]

I also bought my trailer from douglas which is about 100 miles from me and I know someone that works as a electrician and does work for all of them and he said they build and sell 400 a day, and that they were a huge mobile home building area and when things went bad they moved into trailers.
I have been thinking about building another trailer and I think this time I would buy from a dealer that would allow a factory tour which mine would not do, but it was to late I had ordered the trailer already.
One thing is looking at them in person is always better than ordering off the web site especially matching the color to you truck if that is what you want.
If I were to do it again I would have the factory make the cut out for the window AC and build the trailer around that and also have them install the holding tanks and shower and toilet and have that done right then do the rest myself.

This trailershopper is a great web site I saw this one the other day but have been hesitant to call about pricing

http://www.trailershopper.com/page-33062.html

[James06]

I went with an Atwood converter panel I found on Amazon for $90. As far as running the wires goes, I ran it along the top then down to the outlets. It took more wire but was easier than taking off the walls. I hid the wires with trim.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Welcome aboard khigh

Don't forget Lark - that's the master of all builders & all dealers work under them &
Pretend they are the factory - I know because I got OTTCT 1.0 direct from them by accident actually.
Mark519 is a Larker who has great build.

My only thought is that a 7 ft high 5 x 12 might look a little strange being very high unless you have a 4 x 4 TV
Or a high kinda of truck / van.

Cheers OTTCT

[khigh]

Thanks all for the replies.

Douglas factory: That all makes sense that all the companies doing the custom builds are licensees of the factories. One of the web sites provided was an exact clone of ones of the ones I already had, even. The one I'm looking at just packages their features in a way that makes the most sense to me, I guess. In fact it's hard to duplicate the exact build on other sites.

Electrical panel: This one? http://www.amazon.com/ATWOOD-39031-CONV ... rter+panel So I put that on an interior wall, wire everything off of that, and then hook generator power to it and it charges the battery, right? So I still need some sort of external interface. If I'm understanding correctly also, the battery won't charge while I'm driving. I've got a mammoth "towing" alternator - something like 160 amps, but the way I plan to use the trailer, I don't really need to charge as I drive if that makes things hard on me to set it up that way.

Color/Height/Tow Vehicle: I'm going to get a pewter one and see what happens. I've got a pewter Tahoe. That color is so ubiquitous I'm HOPING that's what the trailer company's pewter is modeled on. If not, I haven't ruled out eventually dropping it off at Maaco for a $3/400 color match. I'm 7' tall, but I'm only getting a 6' interior. I don't plan on standing up in it, but 5' is just too much to even try to bend over (Heck I'm probably taller than that sitting down on a platform bed). If I get a 6' interior I can do covered parking. It should be 7'10 including vent and under my screened porch is 8' right off the driveway next to the garages - almost like an extra garage but with no door.

[jwhite]

this is what I used and has worked perfectly it is what contractors use at job sites it has 8 plugs and lighted switches so it's easy to see in the dark.
I bought it at lowes for around 50.00 and has a 15ft cord that I could run down the inside wall and through the floor and out to the trailer tounge.
I only use 15amps anyway so it works fine, the Honda generator I have is 15amp so, I can run my 8000btu AC and charge my golf cart at the same time which all I need.
I also have 2 golf cart batteries I charge at home and I have a 1100 watt inverter I use also to convert to power for TV and charging ect.
My next thing I am going to buy is a solar panel that has the built in controller so I can just attach it to the batteries and charge the 2 golf cart batteries.
I don't need any more that that.

[Erikh425]

Good ideas with the electrical panel.

At 7' tall you are probably a pro at banging your head on all types of things

[James06]

The panel you linked to is the one. I used a 30 amp external connector I bought at a local RV place. That's probably way overkill but I may eventually do an A/C. I didn't hook it up for batteries, just straight electrical, but it was fairly easy.

[khigh]

At 7' tall you are probably a pro at banging your head on all types of things

Well the pro move is to not bang it at all. The older I get, the better I get at it. In college one of my many nicknames was "head wound".

I actually held a steel tape against the wall and practiced fitting in five feet and six feet. Five feet just isn't doable. At 6 feet I won't be cooking or doing dishes, so I don't really need the extra space of a 10' for much besides storage and then there's the V on top of that. I was planning on making it for one with a twin XL, but if I use the front for storage I could utilize the width with no shelving or anything and put a Full XL in it. the only problem with that is I wouldn't be able to fold it because I want either an air mattress or real mattress (no foam pads) and since there are no air mattresses that size it would be too tall to fold, so I'd have to do just pull out storage underneath if I go that route. then I wouldn't be able to do an even split because I couldn't pull 3 1/2" forward, so I'd be looking at something like 5 foot long drawers for the rear which would get heavy - possibly have to use a track system.

We'll see.

[NO David!]

Welcome khigh,

We decided to purchase a Cargo Craft, custom made in Ambrose, GA, through a local dealer here in Rome, GA. Would do it again, but would spend more time confirming the option list on the build sheet. Had a few quality issues right after delivery, but the factory sent a repair crew all the way to my house to handle the minor quality issues and the mix-ups on the custom build. Not sure I would get that service from anyone else. Of course maybe others would have better Q.C. and build checklists? Additionally, I think they are still privately (family) owned. (This could be good or bad?) Many of the other brands seem to now be just that, a brand after so many have gone out of business or been bought out.
http://www.cargocraftinc.com/

Here's our short build story:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345


I ordered 6" additional height, did my own insulation and wiring, two interior 120V outlets, one exterior, using a standard WFCO breaker box standard in many campers. After returning from a day trip kayaking, the offset windows and vent fan are still the most amazing design choice. Slide open the windows, kick on the fan, and presto a nice gentle breeze throughout the trailer. Also purchased the foam insulation locally from the manufacturer, 1" thick.

I also chose to match the tow vehicle color, they mailed me a color chip before I made the decision.
-Several have said buy 2' more length than you think you will need...this was outstanding advice.
-Also setup your basic design on the garage floor or driveway to see how it will work.
-You can spend a lot or a little, we went modular and minimalist and have been happy. Our surplus military cots have been remarkably popular. Decide how you will use it primarily, layout your gear/plans and test it multiple times.
-Also another member said take the new trailer on a few shakedown trips before setting everything solid. You'll find out what works when you start using it.
-I chose tandem axle even though I'll never have it loaded heavy enough to need it. Lots of benefits in my opinion- everyone differs on tandem vs single axle.

Yesterday, a 5-boat kayak trip, this morning we converted to it to the lawn care crew for the church (two riding mowers fit easily). Already cleaned up and ready to paddle, camp, or bike on the next trip. We really like the modular, multi-purpose design we chose.

Good luck whatever you decide, tons of resources and ideas here.

David

[khigh]

Thanks for the links and for the build. I especially like the staggered window/cross ventilation idea - don't know if I'll be able to use it.

I've put some layouts on graph paper and even done some real space arranging of bits, but the height factor literally brings a third dimension into play. I'll have to get a feel for what I can and can't accomplish in there. Ultimately I'll throw some plywood on some milk crates or something when I get it and try moving around in real time before I finalize any plans.