Hello and my new POP OUT teardrop.

[FIREBALL05]

While the design is neat and original, I'm not sure I really like it

Are you really going to be sitting down inside the teardrop?

It also seems like a lot of effort to have a small standing interior space. What are you going to do with that space?

I also think it's a big concession to not have a proper galley. That is a pretty big appeal of the TD - the easily accessible and always ready-to-go kitchen area.

Perhaps the type of camping you like to do or for your needs it works, so maybe I am just asking what are your design goals? Please don't take the wrong way

[Mike46]

Scott (g2m) asked me a few questions in a PM that were good points to get in the full post.

...and many Q's..
do you own the trailer part already?
is that why it has a narrow wheelbase?
what type of roofing are you thinking?..
after you fold out the addition (love it) what supports it?.
in the addition do you have a vertical hard mount?.. for wind
so the top doesn't lift n fall in a storm you may be camping in??
the side door is 33.5" off the ground??? that's a step or two..
any insolation?
I'll stop before you are pulling your hair out ..or mine..
hope you don't mind the Q's..
call it fellow designer curiosity...
cheers…

Scott, the trailer is that width to keep the whole unit as narrow as possible, I wanted the 60" width of the box because of the width of the plywood and as close to queen bed as possible. But because of the axle, if I put the wheels on the outside of the box, it would be 10" wider than it is now. The 60” wheel track also fall right in line with my Subaru Forester wheels in this configuration and it's not wider than the car, all that makes negotiating tight fire roads easier.

No roof, just finished plywood, probably epoxy resin. I’m hoping people will chime in on this point. The trailer will be under tarp when at home. It seems like it goes both ways on this forum, some people use a roof cover some don’t.

Google “Kampmaster” and look at the images. This is where I got the idea for the rear door, befor that it was going to be a tent door and the lid was going to be supported by some sort of prop. The lid will be bolted (see “Typical method of construction and clamping” picture) to the door and the door is attached to the floor with a continuous hinge. Still thinking about the mechanism that keeps the door straight when in the open position, could use a latch or ribs and a four of the same bolts.

The side door is an afterthought and probably will only be use in a pinch, so yes it is high at 33 1/2" off the ground but easy enough with a step stool. I could lower the whole unit but I want the ground clearance for those same fire roads.

Happy to answer any question, Mike

[Mike46]

FIREBALL05, you make good points, let me try to address them. The standing interior space was a requirement after many years of tent camping and wanting a place to stand without having to set up a monster tent. Then my year with the Coleman Colorado reinforced this idea. A place to stand and change, sit in a chair, sit on the pot (bucket). You're right the table probably won't be used much, I think sitting on the head of the bed will probably be used more, than the other person can sit in a chair on the floor. I’d rather sit outside while camping, but sometimes rain or bugs make that difficult.

Never had the galley, so nothing to change from the way I’ve been camping for years. You probably didn't see the sink and stove space on the right side of the unit unless you downloaded the 3D PDF. here’s a picture to clarify. The canopy is low on the agenda but doable.



Maybe it’s not a teardrop, we can call it a Tiny Travel Trailer if that's more accurate.

Thanks for your feedback, Mike

[ctstaas]

Hi Mike,
Most of this conforms to personal user preference but axle placement will effect performance and safety so is more of a technical issue. The opinion I agree with most thinks the axle should be at 65% of the length of the load (Do not consider the tongues length when placing). Closer then 50% of the load and your trailer will skip around like towing a wild jack rabbit. So, technically from 50% of the load to 65% of the length of the load. More then 65% and the tongue weight goes up fast. My 4x8 weights #1050 ready to camp. My frame is 1 1/2"x0.065" and 3"x 3/16" for the tongue and axle tube. My torsion axles bolt onto plates welded to the axle tube. I could have gone down to 3"x 0.120" but the thicker material doesn't add that much weight compared to strength. When I buy steel it's by the pound so price comparison is easy to figure also. I would advise to buy the axles or at least consider the mounting when you design the frame. I built my frame, then bought my axles and am a couple of inches off (too far back). It was before I found the site so don't tell anyone. My pictures are posted in the member area under "C" on page 25 for reference. You'll find lots of opinion on this site so pick the one you like best. When designing my cabin I consider materials that are readily available for price, joinery and weatherproofing concerns.
Enjoy, Chris