Off Road 5x10 (now 4x8) to match the jeep

[ekim952522000]

Update see below, changing to a 4x8 for simplicity.

~~~~~~~

Not quite ready to start a build thread yet so thought I would post my concept here I am working on finalizing the design over the next few weeks before I order everything for the build.

Some specs.

5 x 10 base, slight smaller near the tires so that the track width matches the jeeps.

Trailer frame will be built out of 2x3, and 2x2 inch tubing, walls will be framed with 1" square tubing.

Tires are a 31 x 10.50 on a 15" wheel so that my jeep and trailer will se the same setup and can share spares.

Trailer is being built most for travel on rough roads, not rock crawling.

Design goals are

Queenish size bed, I am 6'2 so could use the extra length.

Tires to match the jeep.

On board sink, and water tank to supply it, current design can hold 30 gallons.

2 burner stove

Plenty of storage of course. roof rack with the possibility of adding a future roof top tent in it's place.

1" wall insulation, just planning to run a fan, no A/C or Heat planned.

Anyways on to the design the first few in white were just a rough draft, the others showing the yellow insulation are me beginning to finalize the design.

As you can probably tell I have a lot of windows, I don't want to feel confined, and want to be able to get plenty of ventilation.

Anyways all feedback is appreciated.

[ekim952522000]

A few more shots, these ones are what I am actually planning to build, the rest were just a rough concept, and did not take into account framing sizes, etc.

[FIREBALL05]

Looks like a good start and I like all the windows! Have you hung out in a TD with two doors and a stargazer window? I knew I wouldn't have a problem with it, but my wife was shocked at just how nice it felt, no feelings of claustrophobia and the extra light makes it feel pretty roomy. You might not need the expense/complexity of all those windows, but I'm sure it'll be nice.

What is the track width you are trying to achieve? I've been designing my own TD and debating b/w the 4.5' vs. 5' width. Not considering integrating the wheel wells into the cabin though. What kind of suspension will you be using and have you accounted for slightly bigger tire size, suspension travel, etc.?

Looks like a tight squeeze with the fenders and the doors. You might need to pull those up a touch.



I'd also encourage you to check your tongue weight. That storage box so far foward, plus a ~75# spare sitting up there might be tough to achieve desired tongue weight.

Good luck!

[KCStudly]

Looks pretty good so far.

One thing I would change is to make the main rails of the trailer inboard all one piece running front to back to support the suspension, then have the outer "pontoons" or extensions added on. The walls of the cabin will add plenty of strength to support the extensions, and the way you have it now the suspension will try to twist the bump-ins in the frame. Also, having the main frames supporting the suspension would give you options down the road if you decide you want longer leaf springs or need to relocate the axle.

[alaska teardrop]

Always interested when someone is building with metal, so I'll make some suggestions.
I agree with KC that 2x2x1/8 main rails spaced 48" apart would make for simpler & stronger construction.
For all the other pieces of the platform (cross members front to back & side rails) 2x1x1/8 would be more than adequate.
Instead of guessing about the tongue tube sizes, Andrew's 'Tongue Strength' page gives a formula for determining the sizes depending on gross weight & tongue length: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear84.htm
1x1x1/16 tube is a good choice for the cabin gage.
I would recommend .040" or .050" aluminum for the exterior held on with the correct VHB tape & rivets.
An example:


For the floor consider taping & riveting .050" or .063" aluminum to the platform with 1-1/2" or 2" of extruded polystyrene insulation on top with 1/4" oak or vinyl laid on the insulation.
Example:

Stacie Tamaki's blog has pictures of her build that you might find helpful:
http://theflirtyguide.blogspot.com/sear ... date=false
Also this thread about building my Northern Lite Traveler has information that you might find useful regarding insulation, vapor barrier, tape, rivets, attaching the interior panels, ect.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=51991
BTW, what's your name & where are you from?
Fred

[working on it]

ekim952522000- Looking good, and you're building it for off-roading from scratch...not trying to modify it later, as I will be doing, as I get more free time-retirement-. Yours is 5x10, mine is 4x8, but similarly shaped.

offroadbuilds comparo.png (194.5 KiB) Viewed 13430 times

Even though I'm not contemplating "rockcrawling", ever, just soft-roading at most, one point of concern for me is the rear departure angle on my trailer (even after taller tires- to be added later-), is not great enough to yet cross gullies or even bar-ditches. Your design may face the same problem. Consider an up-angle at the rear of your frame; on a longer trailer (than mine) you can move the interior features up and away, just enough to create that angle...I may be limited to adding a skid plate and re-configuring my stabilizers to accomplish "crossing the bar"-ditch.

[ekim952522000]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, especially your post and links Fred they were VERY helpful.

I spent the day measuring out and building mock ups, and trying out different sizes I have decided that a 4'x8' design is plenty big enough for my needs, so with that new knowledge I set about a redesign.

Staring with the chassis.

Screen Shot 2014-09-20 at 11.04.45 PM.png (68.08 KiB) Viewed 13323 times

I have moved to a much simpler design, the plan is to use a 3500lb axle with simple leaf springs on this design to make it plenty durable for rough road travel behind my jeep. As always I would appreciate any feedback.

[ekim952522000]

Oh Ya, and name is Mike, and I am from Sacramento, CA =-)

Revised 1"x1" skeleton using only 2 door "windows" and one stargazer window.

Screen Shot 2014-09-20 at 11.12.41 PM.png (48.45 KiB) Viewed 13323 times

Viewing Showing 1" rigid Insulation

Screen Shot 2014-09-20 at 11.16.46 PM.png (49.61 KiB) Viewed 13323 times

[ekim952522000]

Revised "final" Concept as of now.

Screen Shot 2014-09-20 at 11.17.15 PM.png (58.6 KiB) Viewed 13323 times

Screen Shot 2014-09-20 at 11.17.05 PM.png (245.01 KiB) Viewed 13323 times

[ekim952522000]

Hopefully these revisions will simply the build process, and make for a more reliable trailer.

[ekim952522000]

ekim952522000- Looking good, and you're building it for off-roading from scratch...not trying to modify it later, as I will be doing, as I get more free time-retirement-. Yours is 5x10, mine is 4x8, but similarly shaped.

offroadbuilds comparo.png

Even though I'm not contemplating "rockcrawling", ever, just soft-roading at most, one point of concern for me is the rear departure angle on my trailer (even after taller tires- to be added later-), is not great enough to yet cross gullies or even bar-ditches. Your design may face the same problem. Consider an up-angle at the rear of your frame; on a longer trailer (than mine) you can move the interior features up and away, just enough to create that angle...I may be limited to adding a skid plate and re-configuring my stabilizers to accomplish "crossing the bar"-ditch.

That is a good point and something I have considered, but really don't want to lose the storage below the counter in the galley. How tall is your trailer?

[KCStudly]

Now is the best time to be sure of what you want to build.

For two people, definitely test sleeping in a confined 4 ft space. Some people are okay with it, and some people think they will be okay with it at first, but in the "What would you do different next time" thread building 5 wide instead 4 got a lot of votes (if not the most votes).

Part of the decision will be based on what type of 4 wheeling you intend to do, but if that will be mostly mild forest roads and such, I would really consider going wider (in fact I did).

[FIREBALL05]

54"w seems like a good compromise. I'm designing my off-road teardrop now and keep wavering between 54 and 60 inch width. I think there will be a few instances off-road that I will really wish I had the narrower size, but reality is most the time we will be just fine with the 60 and enjoy the extra space.

[alaska teardrop]

Looks good Mike,
Two more suggestions. First, instead of welding the front wall center post, weld a 'T' flange top & bottom so that it can be riveted or screwed in place. This would allow easier access for working on the interior & fitting the larger interior panels. The front wall can then be completed sometime near the end of your build.
Second, rather than laying the 1x2's flat, install them on edge (vertically). It would make for a stronger floor & you would have the ideal platform for an aluminum floor. I know that you mentioned tucking plywood & insulation on top of the cross members & within the perimeter frame, but how will it be supported around the perimeter? By attaching a full sheet of aluminum, the underside will be protected, no pockets for moisture to collect & no wood to rot.
Example:


Fred

[ekim952522000]

Looks good Mike,
Two more suggestions. First, instead of welding the front wall center post, weld a 'T' flange top & bottom so that it can be riveted or screwed in place. This would allow easier access for working on the interior & fitting the larger interior panels. The front wall can then be completed sometime near the end of your build.
Second, rather than laying the 1x2's flat, install them on edge (vertically). It would make for a stronger floor & you would have the ideal platform for an aluminum floor. I know that you mentioned tucking plywood & insulation on top of the cross members & within the perimeter frame, but how will it be supported around the perimeter? By attaching a full sheet of aluminum, the underside will be protected, no pockets for moisture to collect & no wood to rot.
Example:


Fred

Thanks Fred, I think you are right on both accounts I will change it. The front wall center post is great idea!