Renegade Build

[andreuther]

After a year of on and off thinking, researching, and debating I have finally made up my mind on my second build. At first I was playing with the idea of a foam or a foam hybrid build but here in CA the type of foam that I want to use has become almost impossible to find and when found it is priced way to high. I then began to play with a minimalist design involving a stick frame and 5mm ply, but I just can't convince myself that that is what I truly want. All the while I have been going back to my original plan (½'' ply walls) and with some modifications based on my above ideas I have finally decided to commit to a plan. My reasons for choosing ½'' ply over 5mm ply and sticks is that my trailer is 56'' wide between the fenders and I would like to keep the build between the wheels. If I do ½'' ply I will only be shy 5'' of 5'. If I do the stick build I would end up having to build over the wheels.

I plan on building this without insulation at first and allowing for the possibility of adding it if I decide it is needed here in CA.

Here is the plan:
-Walls: ½'' ply with painted canvas on the outside. If insulated I will use foam backed carpet.
-Roof and bulkheads: Sparred with 2x2 redwood, then one sheet of 5mm ply will be placed over the top. If insulted I will place insulation between the spars and add 5mm ply to the inside.
-Floor: Framed with 2x2 redwood with ½'' ply on top, and then sealed with asphalt emulsion. I doubt I will insulate the floor but if I had to I would do it the same as the roof.
-Doors will be large framed RV windows.
-Electric: I will do a simple electric hookup for powered camping. Sticking with the minimalist idea I plan on using a solar powered vent, solar powered outside lights, and battery powered puck lights. I found a small solar aa/aaa battery charger to use for the lights. The outside lights and vent have their own build in solar panels so I wont have to use a deep cycle battery and a solar panel kit. I estimate all my electrical components costing around $150
-The trailer I am using is an old jet ski trailer I found on craigslist for $180. I plan on removing the single tongue and replacing it with a longer A frame tongue. The suspension will be completely overhauled and the frame and wheels will be repainted black.

The design is very similar to the Northern Lite build by Alaska Teardrops. I modified the design using my own radius and by adding a bunk to the inside.

I am hoping to keep the build between 700-800 pounds and less than $1500.

My progress so far has been limited to the trailer modifications and I should be finished with that soon.

I would like to thank KCStudly, Woodbutcher, and Alaska Teardrops for all the help you provided, thanks!!!

[andreuther]

And more:

[dales133]

This will be one to watch, like the design

[andreuther]

My windows have arrived!!! They feel a little heavy but I think their large size will add to the doors stability. They also came with screens! Not bad for $80 shipped.

[andreuther]

Just picked up the trailer from the welder. Welding and supplies $120. Worth every penny. Also started cleaning the hubs.

[alaska teardrop]

Quick question: I am planning on having a 4' tongue and your design has a 3' 2'' tongue. With that in mind should I move the axle forward 10'' making it 37'' from the rear? Thanks again!

Andre,
Yes, a longer tongue would mean having the axle farther forward. But, by how much, I'd just be guessing. It's generally accepted that the tongue weight should be 10-15% of the total gross weight.
I have a suggestion though. That would be to build your complete cabin, including the floor, off the chassis. Place on the chassis approximately where it should be with all you camping gear inside & weigh the total. You can then slide the cabin forward or back to determine the correct tongue weight & bolt it down by a predetermined method.
Fred

[andreuther]

I like the way you think Fred. I was planning on making the cabin removable for maintenance so this should work out quite well. Thanks again!

[andreuther]

Well a lot has happened in the past 2 weeks. My wife and sone have been out of town for the last week and I have had tons of time to get some work done. I started with rebuilding the suspension per Robs post on "rebuilding an axle/springs for better ride". I then painted the trailer and reassembled her. With the new tongue and rebuilt suspension this thing pulls like a dream, even while empty. Loaded she tows even better. I used the trailer for my first major supply run and that went well. I then framed the floor and attached the bottom skin. The insulation was easy to cut with my new jigsaw. While the top skin is drying I decided to cut out the wall profile and work on the doors. Of coarse I took pics:

[andreuther]

And the rest:

[andreuther]

My next goal is to build the bumper using a 4x4 redwood post. It will add a little weight but not much as redwood is pretty light. I also plan on attaching the walls soon, but I need to rip a few more redwood 2x4's down to 2x2's. Thats about it for now.

[andreuther]

Just finished working on the bumper and ripping some spars (sounds like I'm a skater). I'm hoping to have the walls up this Friday while I have the day to myself. It's getting pretty cold her, not sure how much more I am going to get one before I have to pack it up for the winter. Oh well, more time to plan.

[andreuther]

The walls are up.

[andreuther]

Finally got some work done this week. Can't wait to do some more tomorrow. Here are some pics:

[Junkboy999]

Andre.


Coming along great and fast. Nov and Dec are too cold for me to work outside.


On the front of your camper, The rounded part is there going to be another crossmember brace at the tightest part of the bend area. IMG_3090.JPG. looks like a potential flat spot waiting to happen when the outer skin goes on.

Keep it up

[andreuther]

Got a lot done in the past few months but I haven't been updating. Here are some pics: