There was a lot less squeeze out on the galley side, which I was grateful for. All it needed was a little cleanup with the stick and a quick wipe before removing the tape.
Because the screws go down thru the spar on the leading edge (with the rear edge hanging off the bulkhead a little), and the profile is curved here, the spar rocked forward a little; no big deal. Where the seal will wrap up around the hatch side spar (where I did the round over), I need to fit a little inside radius block on each side to fill in what would otherwise be a gap in the corner between the top of the walls and the spar. I started fitting this little piece of maple by matching the angle of the spar. It’s shown behind the little shim here, but will sit out flush to the outside of the wall once it is cut down and the inside radius is cut.
Tonight I had a late start. When I got to the loft my little shop radio wasn’t working. Karl had been having electrical issues on a grand scale. The electrical service entrance is actually on a pole in his front yard where the meter and disconnect are located. From there the wires were directly buried up to the house, under the old slate and concrete walkway. They had that all dug up and have been installing a new patio off the kitchen door. Apparently when they lifted the leads to pull them thru the new conduit, the neutral lead didn’t get socked down well at the disconnect. Somehow this caused high voltage throughout the house (Karl measured surges up to 170v on a 110 outlet), blowing several dimmer switches, the transformer for the igniter on their gas stove, two expensive transformers on their furnace, a ballast in a fluorescent light fixture, my little radio, and one of Karl’s cordless Makita battery chargers.
Anyway, the rest of the evening was spent contemplating blocking options and details for the possibility of aluminum rock guarding of the front wall. I had not planned this out in advance. Ideally the guard would extend up just below the front radius, would cover the locker bump out, and would wrap around the wall corner radii at least a few inches, if not tapering down the side walls toward the door jambs.
The more I looked at it, the more work and materials seemed to be involved. In the interest of simplifying, I am also considering options, such as: applying bed liner material over the canvas; applying epoxy over the canvas then bed liner; and applying the canvas with epoxy, epoxy over canvas, then bed liner. Need to test.
I posted an inquiry about bed liner as stone protection for foam here.
If I can make one of these options work, I think it would be a better solution, would appear more like what I had in mind visually, and would maintain water tightness much better.
Also, Karl and I rationalized that installing a galley hatch handle could prompt people to try and open or close the hatch indifference to the actuators, which will not yield. In the off chance that I need to lift the hatch manually, after disconnecting the lower actuator brackets I can just grab the bumper and lift the hatch. So no blocking needed for that.
I gave a little more thought to mounting and wiring the tail lights, license plate and marker light, and have almost completely forgotten to add blocking for the galley light. I might need to fit little pads for the fixture “feet” to sit flat against the inside curve of the hatch, so I guess I have gone too far too fast already.
So the bottom line is that no actual work got done, besides making some decisions on how and where to proceed.
Randy
Maybe too much "unsubtle".
