Heater Install Done! UPDATED 10-27-13

[Gonefishin]

Man, I'm getting all confused now. All these connections, this valve to that valve, to this quick connect, black pipe, metal pipe, flex pipe, etc. etc.

Mine's pretty simple though. The rubber hose from the manufacturer runs direct from the furnace to the outside tank regulator, which screws onto the tank. Still two connections at the tank, but I get it. So I'm supposed to put a metal flex line from the heater to the outside, then the rubber hose from that metal flex line to the tank? That's only adding one more connection, and changing the line on the inside from rubber to the metal flex. I could handle that, I think, if the fittings screwed into the stove on that end and the existing rubber hose on the other, but any more, . . . Hell, I'll get a motel!

Hankaye, the flex hose/pipe/whatever on that link you sent has different BTU ratings for pieces of the same length. Mine would need to be the 4 footer. Wonder which one I'd get? I assume the "smaller" one rated for 96,000 btu, since that's umpteen more btu's than my little furnace puts out.(5,000 I think) thinking:

I'm only considering this because I do want a longer hose from the heater to the tank so I can keep the tank(s) in the truck bed. Might as well use what the experts say is safest inside the trailer, that won't ever leak, right?

[MtnDon]

Hank, I have to take issue with recommending the use of a metal flex line in an RV situation. I can not off hand point to a website right now that says it is okay or says it is not okay to use those metal gas flex lines in an Rv, but I would not use one of the common residential home metal flex lines in an RV.

They are meant to make easier to connect something like a water heater to a rigid iron gas pipe, or to allow moving a range in and out for occasional floor cleaning. In that application I have seen warnings about "frequent" moving of the connected appliance; it is to be avoided. I do know there are special and very different flex lines made for use in commercial applications where moving of equipment is frequently required. And FWIW when replacing a gas range or other appliance in a home the flex connector is not to be reused, by code.

I believe the common residential metal flex connector could be more dangerous than a rubber hose in an RV where vibration is the order of the day when traveling down the road. I have been tempted to use a hose connection for water heaters and refrigerators on RV's several times as the rigid copper pipe that is the norm can be frustrating at times. But I've used copper with flared fittings each and every time.

I could be wrong but I think a failure with a metal flex hose will result in an immediate large scale release of fuel gas, whereas a hose failure will be a slower seepage event and a good propane detector will signal an alarm in a timely manner. Of course that presupposes that a person is on hand to act on the alarm. If anyone can find one of those metal flex lines in a factory made RV or for sale in the parts department of any RV dealer or RV parts supplier I have a jar of New Mexico's finest green chili or salsa with your name on it. I've looked and found only copper tubing and scads of rubber hoses at local RV dealers parts departments as well as the online RV vendors. My propane dealer sells metal flex lines but that is likely because they sell more propane and services to homes and businesses than to RV's.

That Dickinson heater comes with a hose that is approved for Marine use by the ABYC (ABYC is to boats as the RVIA is to RV's). I personally would have no problem with one in an RV. One major difference in the marine use is that the propane cylinder is supposed to have a solenoid operated gas valve right at the tank that is connected to an on board propane detector. When/if propane is detected the valve is automatically shut.

It would be interesting to know what sort of gas connection is used in an RV slide out that contains the kitchen range. The next time we camp with my BIL I'll have to have a look under his. It's probably a low pressure rubber hose as it is likely seen to be outside the RV.

[bdosborn]

What type of propane line to use has been debated before, I'm firmly convinced that everything is going to blow up no matter what kind you use.

Flex line for propane stove.

Propane Line

Google Search of TNTTT

Bruce

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Just sent the following inquiry to Gastite, a manufacturer of flex pipe for gas systems
http://www.gastite.com/#

Howdy;
Am curious as to the application of your product for use in an RV or Motorhome.
Where it may be applicable or if not suitable at all.
I am about to start converting a cargo trailer into a camper and would like to
install a small propane heater and a stove top.

Thanks for your time and thoughts.

hank

I'll post whatever response I get.
OR ... if anyone wants to spend $16.99 for a copy of Ch. 6 of the LP Gas Code Handbook ...
https://www.inkling.com/read/nfpa-58-ga ... blications

[Rainier70]

GoneFishin, I think you can still keep your install pretty simple. You don't need any kind of flex pipe or quick connect inside the CT since your stove is permanently mounted. And since your rubber hose is marine rated it probably isn't a problem if you just want to leave it how it is. At the time I made my comment, I didn't realize that it wasn't an off the shelf model.

Although I like your idea of extending so that you can connect to a tank in the back of your truck. You could go from your stove connection with either copper or iron pipe to the outside of your CT. A quick connect fitting on the outside would be nice to connect your flex line to, but not absolutely essential. Either way you'll probably want some kind of cap or cover for your line connection that is outside.

[Gonefishin]

This has been a good discussion, but I'm keeping my rubber hose! If its good enough for Dickinson, its good enough for me, even if they are Canadians, eh. When I extend it, I'll just get more hose from them.

[Gonefishin]

And time for another update . . . I just spent 5 nights in my trailer in southern Colorado and northern New Mexico. Overnight temperatures ranged from 28 to 18 (last night near Ridgway, CO). What I found was that my heater kept the inside if the trailer exactly 30 degrees warmer than the outside temperature during nighttime hours. Warmer when the sun was out. It was 48 in there at 6am on that last morning! This is with a wall mounted digital thermometer on my clock, so I suspect the air was actually warmer than 48 because the thermometer is up against one of those cold, poorly-insulated plywood walls. It felt warmer than 48 to me, but that's what it said. I ran the heater on low until I went to sleep, then turned it up to high. My new foam floor tiles just arrived, so they will be installed in May and be there for fall "cool" season. I have no plans to remove any walls to upgrade the insulation. I can really feel the cold on the parts of the floor without the throw rugs, and I'm highly confident the flooring will hold in a lot of heat and keep the cold down below it. I plan to cover everything except the V part of the v-nose, for starters. That'll be the next update! They look like they'd make a good wall covering too, (wood grain look) but not sure if that would have much effect taped over the plywood. It would be easy though! I'm not camping in much below 18 or 15 anyway. My factory insulation is still proving adequate.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Sorry about the circular pathway, my original intent was to
suggest a copper, or other non-porous type of pipe, from the stove to under
the CT then black pipe to the front, the QD and shut-off valve, then rubber
hose it to the truck and regulator.
Again my apologizes.
I'll still post any reply I receive from my inquiry.

hank

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Here's the answer that I received from Gastite;

Hank,

Products used in RV’s and Motorhomes fall under the DOT. Our product is not approved by the DOT, so it can’t be used in that application. I’m sure you’ll be able to find something online or at an RV store.



Thanks,

Ed Glende

Gastite

615-325-1112

That's all there was to it.
Thanks for ya'll's patience.

hank

[Gonefishin]

Thanks Hank! Scratch that one off the list! DOT or nothing.

[BC Dave]

ooow ... I should chime in ...better late than never ...lol... dam busy...

Gonefishing ...(and wish I had ...) Give us an update on heater performance and insulation ..ok?

I'm glad to see your getting good use out of your heater....

...DOT is a concern...

...also ...anything ....around the heater or hose; or chance of falling on it or materials close to the hot part you should carefully assess for combustibility; yes the outdoor bell housing can be burning hot ...peoples seems to want to touch it and burn there fingers ...lol.

...read the manufactures install manual in detail and do as it says. Check with DOt for propane hoses, tank and heater specs ...I'm no expert - better safe than sorry.

I liked the stove so much I bought used larger one (12000 btu I think off hand) for a coach house that Im taking my time building.

With a window cracked it can be too warm; plus it allows fresh air; I have a electrical construction service now so I run a electric oil heater on low at night; keeps it warm enough in cold weather and use the propane when I really want to warm things up.

Last time I used it as I was closing for the winter season; it was wet in the sleet; it was -5 c about 25F ... but I was toast warm at 6:30 making dinner in the dark at the beginning of No14 ... best spendy dollars I've ever spent.



Cheers BC Dave

[Gonefishin]

Well, thanks again for the whole idea Dave. Yes, I'm darn near "living" out of it for part of the year. 50-60 nights just this summer/fall, at least. That heater is the best thing I've done to my trailer by a landslide. And it just looks great too. I've always been one for a fire going. Love the glass door. I posted an update on this thread in late October: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=61376

In summary, it's keeping me toasty at +10 to +20 F. Even made it through a few single digit nights. No extra blankets needed. The foam floor tiles I added last spring made a noticeable difference, though I didn't really measure it. Seems like it takes me from mid 60's to around 70 on a cold night though. And I still have the original factory bubble insulation in the walls and ceiling that supposedly isn't worth a hoot. But its working, and I've yet to remove a wall panel or ceiling since day one. This fall, I started putting bubble wrap over the two roof vents and windows, and that seemed to add a few degrees and eliminate any window draft.

I'm good to go in anything I want to camp in, cold-wise.

[lrrowe]

Gonefishin,
Thanks for the update.

[BC Dave]

This has been a good discussion, but I'm keeping my rubber hose! If its good enough for Dickinson, its good enough for me, even if they are Canadians, eh. When I extend it, I'll just get more hose from them.

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