Working with flashing and beading

[ghcoe]

So now I have a nice square to fit into the vent hole on the roof. This will hold everything nice and square and give a edge to screw or pop rivet the roof vent to once installed.

Vent square

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One thing that is very important in installing the flashing is that you want to make sure you have no spots in you cutout/surface that is not true. You want the flashing to fit but not be pushed by it's surroundings. If it does not fit relaxed it will buckle or lift due to some stress from a tight spot in the cutout.

Checking the cutout

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Install and check for a nice clean fit.

Fitted

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[ghcoe]

If you want a more finished look on the corners you can make a simple cutout to fit nicely under the flashing.

Corner cutout

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By putting it under the flashing you will make it stronger if you have to screw something into it at that location. If not I suppose you could just make a cutout that just fits in the open space. You could do a radius too.

Corner cutout installed

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[ghcoe]

So now that I got the top square done it is time to do the inside square. I will be doing the inside square a bit different because I do not have the tools that are exact enough to make a perfect square 1/16" smaller than the top square. If the top or bottom were not perfect in fitment size it would cause the flashing to distort once I attached them together. So to overcome this I will make two angles.

To start I will mark a cut line at 13 7/8" to allow for clearance to fit inside the top square.

Cut 13 7/8"

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Make the bend as before and check for fitment. This one turned out perfect and stays in place without assistance.

One angle fitted

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Make another angle and fit for size. If any one of the angles is too long to fit you can sand down that side till you have proper clearance. By using two angles you can get the corners to fit right and if your a little short on one side or the other it will still fit nicely. It does not matter if you are a little short ether.

Both angles fitted

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[ghcoe]

So I have not done it yet, but the idea is once I am ready to make these squares permanent I will clamp the top to the bottom and pop rivet them together. The angles, once pop riveted together, will create a channel that will give the foam extra support in the cut out area as well as a hard spot for screwing the vent and garnish in place.

Vent test fit

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Garnish test fit

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Vent attachment points

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[ghcoe]

Now onto a simple hard point.

So you have a place that you need a hard point for attaching something in foam. Well you could use wood, or you could use this simple method.

You will need a soldering gun for this procedure. I have a actual gun, but I believe a soldering tool would work if it had a long enough point.

I will be using a scrap piece of foam and flashing for this example.

First make a piece of flashing the size you need it. In this case I used a piece of scrap about 6" long. Now place the flashing where you need it upside down with the angle away from the cutting edge.

Hard point

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Next, take the soldering gun and get the tip hot. Use the flashing as a straight line guide for your soldering gun tip and make a straight slot. Make sure you go down deep enough for the angle to fit.

Cutting a slot

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Now flip the angle over and install into the slot you just made to make sure it fits. Now all you need to do is glue it into place with GG, GS or Gripper. I think I would use GS in the slot and Gripper between the wall and the angle so I would not get any lifting form the GS. This should hold most light items or hinges.

[ghcoe]

But wait! You say you need something more sturdy?

Ok, Take your soldering gun and now use the existing hard point as a guide for another slot opposite form the slot you just made.

Cutting another channel

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Now place another hard point over the existing hard point.

Another hard point

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Twice the strength now and thicker for more screw holding power.

Twice the strength now

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[KCStudly]

That is a very cool technique, and very practical method for building light weight, fast, yet sturdy.

Are there any special precautions or techniques needed when it comes time to get the canvas to stick?

[ghcoe]

That is a very cool technique, and very practical method for building light weight, fast, yet sturdy.

Are there any special precautions or techniques needed when it comes time to get the canvas to stick?

Yes, I find that Gripper sticks really well to the flashing. Just have to make sure you clean the flashing real well first. I have not played with the TBII as of yet, but I am guessing that it would stick poorly to metal in general. So my thinking so far is that I will be applying gripper to the flashing and then use TBII to apply canvas over the Gripper. I have applied Gripper to the body already to help with fairing the body and it has a good bond to the foam. As long as TBII sticks to Gripper well all should be good.

I also think I would like to apply a rap around strip of canvas over the flashing areas to help fair in those areas before applying the final canvas covering.

Gripper

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[Fred Trout]

Thanks for posting this tutorial; very helpful.

Add another very useful function - flashing helps cover all my crooked edge cuts

PS. this really should be a sticky thread so it does not get buried under new posts

[Toby]

I'm a former sheet metal worker in the military so working with flashing would be sooo much nicer than wood for me. A couple of questions, I see that most doors use a continuous hinge- would that be an issue with using flashing? I would imagine that using shorter fine thread sheet metal screws would work with this flashing when attaching trim rings of windows and door hinges.

Thanks!

.

[ghcoe]

I'm a former sheet metal worker in the military so working with flashing would be sooo much nicer than wood for me. A couple of questions, I see that most doors use a continuous hinge- would that be an issue with using flashing? I would imagine that using shorter fine thread sheet metal screws would work with this flashing when attaching trim rings of windows and door hinges.

Thanks!.

I have not got to mounting any door hinges yet. The plan, as it is now, is to use pop rivets to attach the continuous hinges to the frames. Screws may work just fine. The way I made my door frames there are two layers of flashing for the screws to bite into.

Also, I want to mention that I have found latex caulk to be a good gluing media for flashing too. The nice thing about caulk is that it does not foam. I think the caulk is also better than Gripper because it is thick and fills voids better.

I guess I should show how I made my own door jambs with flashing and beading here.

[Toby]

Hmmm, the big box stores carry 10 foot sections of 1.5"x1.5" but one edge is curved slightly outwards. Or they carry 4"x4" in 7 inch lengths.... maybe I can find a roofing store nearby. Otherwise I'm going have to do a lot of cutting or hammering.

[ghcoe]

I found HD to have the best selection. Usually 1"x1", 1"x2", 2"x2", 3"x2". Weird that they would not have it in your area. Might take a look again. Also look in the drywall area for beading.

[OP827]

Hi George,
Thanks for recording your experience here. I think your method is interesting and useful. I should save time vs. using wood inserts etc.
Did you try using PL Premium adhesive for installing flashing to foam?

[ghcoe]

Hi George,
Thanks for recording your experience here. I think your method is interesting and useful. I should save time vs. using wood inserts etc.
Did you try using PL Premium adhesive for installing flashing to foam?

I have not used PL Premium. I do believe others here have attempted to use it for some other applications and were not very pleased with the results. Lately I have been using regular caulking with great results with bonding. I bonded the flashing around my doors with it and then realized I had to remove it. Foam tore out before the caulking gave way. Make me a believer. Just make sure you clean flashing and beading real well. I use alcohol to wipe it down with.