CNC Build: The Bed and Breakfast at 4 years and 40,000 miles

[KCStudly]

I imagine replacing the cartridge and a blade is a pricy proposition.

Yeah, but it still has to be a lot less than having a finger sewn back on.

[wagondude]

Brad,
BTW - I noticed the SawStop. Have you ever tried the wiener trick? (I imagine replacing the cartridge and a blade is a pricy proposition. )

Take care,
Tom

I don't know about you, but I'm not letting a wiener anywhere near any saw blade.

[capnTelescope]

Y'all asked about the wiener trick.

If you haven't seen the "Wiener Trick," here's the video:

I don't know about you, but I'm not letting a wiener anywhere near any saw blade.

Amen to that, WagonDude. Amen to that.

I haven't done the weiner trick, but I've done the "attempt to saw through a piece of aluminum" trick. Resulting in this wallhanger:


I didn't pay attention to my miter gauge setup, and did this:

At least 2 teeth hit the Alu. I was feeding a piece of wood through and suddenly, WHAM! If that had been a finger, it would have been enough of an owwie to make you think about taking up stamp collecting instead of woodworking.

There's more discussion in this post.

[capnTelescope]

I wanted some form of handle to raise the tambours with, and didn't want some chintzy little brass knob or too-big cabinet handle. Since I happen to have a whole bunch of too short slats that the Ecuadorian Conspiracy ruined, there is plenty of matching raw material. So, back to the router table.

While I was making the slats, I took the time to make a set of bottom slats with a flat in the middle:


All it needs is a finger-sized thingy to pull up with. Because the pull is only about 3 inches long and I don't have a SawStop router, I used a bigger piece of material to do the mill work, which I'll cut down later.

Set up stops on the router fence and plunge a shallow cut with the part against the right stop:

(Dramatic re-enactment) (Duh)

Feed the part to the left stop. Turn the part end-for-end and repeat the cut. Repeat until it looks about right.


You end up with two parts to cut off the stick.


No need to endanger your fingers. This is also why I routed the bullnoses and then cut out the slats.

The contact cement arrived today. Not sure I can glue the backing tomorrow. Might want to do a coat of poly first.

Thanks for stopping by!

[capnTelescope]

You saw how the slats were cut out in the first couple of posts. My next step was to put a tambour together and get used to my new contact goo. With that under my belt, it was time to make up the remaining three. The steps are simple: 1) lay out the slats, 2) put masking tape on the ends so the goo doesn't get on the track surface, 3) goo up the canvas backing, 4) apply the goo to the slats, 5) wait for the canvas to set up, since it takes longer, 6) apply the canvas to the slats and roller it down.

Everything you need is in this picture.

After the contact cement sets up a little bit, roll the tambour and stand it on end. This keeps the slats from sticking together.


Because the contact cement is so runny, there will be goo between the slats.

A vigorous application of a rubber abrasive cleaner stick got rid of this very nicely.

Next, trim the sides of the tambour to size and trim the ends to fit into the tracks. The result looks like this:

I forgot to tape up the first batch of slats before I applied the goo. This turned out to be impossible to clean up with the rubber stick. I had to make a light pass with the dado set to get rid of the goo. Applying poly before doing all this definitely made cleanup easier between the slats.

ADD strikes deep. Into your project it will creep.
Purely as a recreational CNC project, I wanted a TnTTT logo for the Tear. Using my LED light keychain as a guide, I drew up the logo and ran it through CamBam. This is the result:

It's about 3" x 6". HSS ball end router bit doesn't cut as cleanly as I'd like.
Seems like every time I get to the 90% level of aluminum chip clean up, more chips get made. Damn things get everywhere.

Before you deluge me with requests, let me clear it with Mike. It's his logo.

[KCStudly]

Tambours = cool.

CNC TD logo plate = VERY COOL!!!

[capnTelescope]

[tony.latham]

Gooooood gawd, that log came out nice!

T

[capnTelescope]

Gooooood gawd, that log came out nice!

Too much information. Or was "log" a typo?

[tony.latham]

Gooooood gawd, that log came out nice!

Too much information. Or was "log" a typo?

oooooops...... logo

[S. Heisley]

Gooooood gawd, that log came out nice!

Too much information. Or was "log" a typo?

I think he means it's awesome work, which it is.

With that lovely teardrop logo, it isn't clear to me what you are doing. The picture shows it in both wood and metal. Are you making plates to attach or will that become a plate/mold for a metal or rubber stamp to use or an insert plate for an investment casting mold of some sort, or....? Using a CNC mill (?), I know you can repeat the process to make as many plates as you want; so, is that what you plan to do? There doesn't seem to be a good place for screws to attach it as a logo plate. Will you simply glue them on? Or, did I miss something in my reading? Can you tell I'm confused?

[capnTelescope]

Thank you, Sharon.

No need to feel confused, I didn't really 'splain all that.

I just did a couple test runs on the "spoil board" of the CNC before I started cutting aluminum. It makes only half the mess that way. Cutting aluminum gets little chips all over the place. I plan to glue it on the hatch, just like some car dealers do. Might get us a few new members that way.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks, Captain!

[capnTelescope]

You're quite welcome, Sharon. It was my pleasure to dispel your confusion.

I'm not really a Captain, you know. Just a cap'n. Kinda like Cap'n Obvious. Only with telescopes, obviously. No stolen valor here.

[Kharn]

Homemade tambours!
I thought about including them on my build, but without a CNC router, it would've been a much different result than your build.