6x12 V-Nose Build

[abqlloyd]

My construction is as follows:

Outside skin
1" ribs 16" on-center.

Plastic shims edge of each rib against the skin for minor air space and rain screen.

1" Formular150 R-5.0 cut tight.

Bead of Great Stuff at corner of rib and skin.

Press fit insulation into cavity.

Two layers of sill insulation over outer face of rib for thermal break and spacing.

Small bead of GS on outside edge.

Tape.

[abqlloyd]

12' design with a shower:

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Rear bed would be twin mattress over platform which would hold water tank and similar. Shower is 32" fiberglass. Cabinets would wrap around front - not shown.

The v-nose in front of cabinets would hold battery and electrics.

A fold-down bunk about permanent twin would add one more bed.

On the wall opposite the bed, a fold down table would allow the bed to function as a couch and have a small table.

It would be easy to have a platform fill the gap and use a good pad for a queen mattress for those occasions mom tags along.

Just thinking of ideas.

[abqlloyd]

I know these are sold as work trailers but basic workmanship in this country is just about dead.


The pic is of my air vent before I removed the siding. They missed the hole and the other vent piece didn't line up. To compensate they just cracked the plastic and shoved it into place.

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When I insulated I needed to remove both sides. I ended up ordering a new vent.

The other vent is spot on. My intent is to place a small, round, computer fan and have it pull air 24/7. They pull just a few milliamperes and are virtually silent. One vent is high; the other is low on the other side and end of the trailer.

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[abqlloyd]

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Cold today - maybe 30F tops. I was pretty happy with this temp. Passenger side and ramp are uninsulated.

I plan to have it 100% insulated this week.

In hindsight I should have spray foamed. I think it would have been easier. The cold weather is just not friendly to spray foam, however, and I didn't want to risk ruining it.

[abqlloyd]

Interior insulation.

Porch light.

Generator / shore power inlet.

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[abqlloyd]

A little trimming of butyl still needed.

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Rough wiring for switches and power.

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[abqlloyd]

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Shore power inlet.

10g wire and metal box.

This will feed to transfer switch and QO panel.

[pmspirito]

Nice work on the insulation. Mine is also rigid foam and I taped the seams too and used the spray foam in a can for the small nooks and crannies. The trailer stays cool in the summer and in the winter I heat it with a 20-dollar Walmart ceramic heater. The trailer stays toasty warm even when it is in the upper 30's. I am surprised that the heater does not run full time and cycles on and off.

[pmspirito]

One quick thought on those snap on electrical connectors. They will be a problem. I removed them and soldered all connections and insulated the soldered joint with shrink tubing. I used the kind of shrink tube that has the adhesive inside which also strengthens the joint and makes it waterproof.

[abqlloyd]

Good tip. Those snap connectors are notoriously lousy.

I have an industrial crimper and if I find the time I can change them out.

The ratcheting crimpers and fittings are probably as good as solder and much quicker.

I also used spray foam in all the small cracks. I ran the ceramic heater today to keep it warm enough to use the spray foam and the inside temp hit 90F! It never got above freezing today.

[lrrowe]

You sure are coming along nicely.

[abqlloyd]

Making progress!

[abqlloyd]

I'm running 12g stranded for the drops behind the insulation against the skin. Anyone see a problem?

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[pchast]

Its all RED!

The marked end can pull off. Then you'll need to
run out and get a voltmeter!

[abqlloyd]

Installed a test electrical system today. Small PWM charger off the 100w panel and the fuse box. Going to test all the circuits before I fasten it all back up. Then I will mount the MPPT and the rest in permanent location.

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