Compact family camper Build - Always something...

[ryuandwings]

Here are some work I was able to do over the Christmas week. Mostly detail work related to aluminum trims and moldings.

First is the edging work around the under door storage openings. I have not done the door, but it will be hinged at bottom so that it becomes step/ shoe rack.


Here is a little tricky area at the sill of the galley hatch. I had to do this because the diamond plate is above the sill.


I mounted galley hatch and this is a detail of the rain diverter. Idea copied from Tom's Silver Beatle. Thanks Tom.


This is trim I made to fit the inside corner of toung box and roof. This is bent from 1/2" angle.

Here is it mounted.

I originally wanted a single piece to go from top to bottom, but it was difficult to span over diamond plate. I will use two separate pieces. 1/2" at top and 3/4" over diamond plate.

Then, here are the big updates. At least to me.
Finished all insert moldings. When I finished, I could not resist inserting inserts and removing some protective films. That really finishes off.




I got a little more trim work to do, then I can shift my attention to the doors.

Thank you looking.

[KCStudly]

That's looking very nice. You are doing a good job.

[lrrowe]

I really like your front box. And the trim work on it looks great. I wish I could do that.

[aggie79]

Incredible work on the aluminum and trim!

I can only imagine how much time you've taken. Good news is that it will be worth it to have a beautiful, weather-tight teardrop!

[ryuandwings]

That's looking very nice. You are doing a good job.

Thank you KC!

[ryuandwings]

I really like your front box. And the trim work on it looks great. I wish I could do that.

It really is not that hard. I'm not doing anything new, someone has done a part of my detail somewhere.
I guess a key is to practice new detail with scrap piece before trying for the real. And when you do work on your real piece, go slow and don't get dependent on the power tools. I typically rough cut with power tools (Dremel and oscillating multi-tool), then use hand files to shape by hand. It takes longer that way, but you will have much better control.

As I posted on my previous post, annealing is a big help when bending aluminum.

[ryuandwings]

Incredible work on the aluminum and trim!

I can only imagine how much time you've taken. Good news is that it will be worth it to have a beautiful, weather-tight teardrop!

Thanks Tom!
As you know, I can't hide aluminum work, so I rather take time and do it right the first time.
It took me four hours to make two trims to cover tongue box walls and camper roof. But at the same time, if I didn't do it right, repair time will be a lot more and very frustrating.

[lrrowe]

I really like your front box. And the trim work on it looks great. I wish I could do that.

It really is not that hard. I'm not doing anything new, someone has done a part of my detail somewhere.
I guess a key is to practice new detail with scrap piece before trying for the real. And when you do work on your real piece, go slow and don't get dependent on the power tools. I typically rough cut with power tools (Dremel and oscillating multi-tool), then use hand files to shape by hand. It takes longer that way, but you will have much better control.

As I posted on my previous post, annealing is a big help when bending aluminum.

I will keep your work and comments as my inspiration when it is time to do this kind of worK on mine.

[ryuandwings]

I will keep your work and comments as my inspiration when it is time to do this kind of worK on mine.

Let me know when you are ready to work on yours. I can at least tell you what worked and didn't work for me.

[ryuandwings]

I previously mentioned that I forgot to make holes on aluminum skins for embedded T-nuts for door hinges. I started to locate T-nuts using magnets and, today I was able to complete the task.

I first put masking tapes on wood side, which is the flange side of T-nuts.
Using magnets I marked locations.


Once I located holes, I flipped the door and placed magnets on both side to transfer the marks. Magnets were not attracted to T-nuts on aluminum side, but I was able to align visually.


It was a bit scary to drill on aluminum skin, but I got close enough to be covered by the hinges.


Here is hinges mounted on the door.


I'm not happy with the thickness of the spacer needed, but I don't want to redo doors, so I'm going to accept this.

I will shape this later.

This is how the door looks when mounted. I really like how it looks.


Here is a close up of hinge and spacer.


Next is to finish edgings on door openings and attach door edgings with caulking.

Thanks for looking.

[Gunguy05]

Looks nice. I bet it feels good to see that door finally put into place, with aluminum.. with hinges.

Great work!

[dales133]

Something to realy be proud of there.
Very nice detail work

[lrrowe]

I will keep your work and comments as my inspiration when it is time to do this kind of worK on mine.

Let me know when you are ready to work on yours. I can at least tell you what worked and didn't work for me.

Thanks...I will keep this link so I will remember. I forgot things a lot anymore

[ryuandwings]

Looks nice. I bet it feels good to see that door finally put into place, with aluminum.. with hinges.
Great work!

Something to realy be proud of there.
Very nice detail work

Thanks guys ..., but things are not that easy. Always something to overcome.
Details will be on my next post.

[ryuandwings]

I thought I was doing good to get the door hinge holes figured out, test fit the hinges and doors.
Then Murphy came by and decided to make my build a little harder and interesting.

I was removing the screw holding the hinge on the door and I felt it's getting stuck. Forcing a little, then it really got stuck and would not turn either way. Now I got a screw half into my door. That's not good. To make it even worse, not that t-nut seems to come loose and stuck screw is now turning freely.

I tried and tried, but I was not able to get the screw out. So, I got to the salvage mode. How can I save this door? I decided to cut the head of screw to remove the hinge off the door. Here you can see the stuck screw with head cut off. Pencil outlines the actual hinge footprint.

I initially though about drilling through the screw, but stainless steel is too hard to drill.
Then I figured I can make a hole by the screw to remove screw and t-nut. It will be hidden by the hinge anyway.


It seems like I bent the teeth of t-nut when I originally set it in.

At this point I can think of two options.
I can fill the hole with epoxy and use wood screw to mount the hinge, or I can embed t-nut in the hole with epoxy so I can use same type screw like the rest. Either way, I was glad I managed to save the door without major detour.

Here you can see the door and the hinges back on the trailer. This hole location is the top screw of the top hinge. Once I fill with epoxy, I won't be able to tell.


In addition to above, I finished mounting fenders.
I decided to keep it simple and used brackets. It's not the cleanest way to mount the fender, but it should be solid. 3 brackets per side and brackets will be lag screwed in to the side wall. Fenders are mounted to brackets with stainless steel bolts.

I covered top of diamond plate with aluminum carpet trim with caulking.


There are rubber fender welting between wall and fender. This should cover the gap created by the diamond plate patterns.


Moving on to next tasks of finishing door opening edging and latch plates.
Thanks for looking.