Hello Fellow Teardroppers, my name is Bryan and I live in Fairbanks Alaska. I first introduced myself in the Newbie section, but I thought I would start an official "Build Journal", so please forgive the duplications of text and images. Here we go.
This is going to be a 4X8 with a Benroy side profile. 3/4" plywood floor and walls. Insulated roof. Manufactured side doors.
I built the frame using 2X2X.125" steel tubing. This includes the perimeter, cross-members, and tongue A-frame. These first pictures are when it is in raw steel freshly sandblasted, then etch primed, and finally topcoated with urethane single stage paint.
On the rear corners I welded a plate to accept the stabilizers. I drilled 3 sets of holes to give me options as to how they could be mounted. I.E. pointed back, at a 45 degree angle, or out to the side.
Attachments
Stabilizer mounting plate at the rear of the frame
For the axle I ordered a Dexter #9 built to the specifications I provided. Hub width is 60.5", mounting flanges are 43", the start angle of the swing arms is 10 degrees down, and the weight rating is de-rated to 1500Lbs. I called Dexter and talked with them about the dimensions that were needed. They then plugged the info into their computer program and e-mailed me the results so I could verify that everything would fit. Such as swing arm to the sides, wheel offset, and fender width requirements.
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frame n.jpg (50.77 KiB) Viewed 10062 times
IMG_6688.jpg (38.7 KiB) Viewed 10062 times
IMG_6692.jpg (42.5 KiB) Viewed 10062 times
Last edited by ratrod71 on Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am using 3/4" ACX plywood for the floor. The perimeter wood is clear poplar that was custom cut to 1 1/2" X 2" true dimensions. The floor will be channeled over the frame. This will give the plywood walls a strong surface to be glued and screwed to.
The screws used to attach the plywood to the poplar are coated deck screws with Torx bit heads. The fasteners used to hold the deck to the frame are 3/8" stainless button headed allen cap screws with nylon locking nuts. The glue used is Tite-Bond III.
I spent our snowy Fairbanks Sunday waterproofing the underside of the deck. I used the West System epoxy 105 resin, and 206 hardener. Applied 2 coats per their recommendation. I bought more than I needed, so I will be waterproofing the sides also prior to installing the aluminum skin. An inexpensive alternative to the West System foam rollers is the Wooster brand. Their foam roller named TIZ, part number R730, worked perfect and was purchased locally for less than half the price of West's. I know, the picture is kind of boring, but I thought I would throw it in. Happy Building, Bryan
I cut out the sides after drawing the arcs with compasses made from 1X2's with a screw in one end and a hole drilled in the other to accept a pencil. I used the exact dimensions shown in the "Generic Benroy" plan. The plywood is 3/4" birch. I am going to use pre-made 26"X36"doors. After cutting the sides out I used West System epoxy and coated the exterior side.
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Freshly cut sides made of 3/4" Birch.
IMG_6986.jpg (31.31 KiB) Viewed 9695 times
Cool little leftover corner pieces to be used to square up the side walls.
Today the deck got permanently mounted to the frame. I first put down camper topper foam tape on the frame prior to mounting the deck. This will keep the wood from chafing against the frame and make a waterproof seal. Then the sides were screwed into place. The mahogany spars are next including the framing of the opening for the Fan-Tastic Vent fan. Once evrything is mocked up and screwed into position, I will disassemble the spars and sides, then glue it up with Titebond III and permanently screw it together. This was a fun day!