Cargo trailer issues?

[lrrowe]

Jerry,
You know I have a Car Mate and I believe I could have a condensation problem if I do not take the right precautions. First I must create as little condensation as I can. That is basic. Next I do need to prevent whatever is created in the cabin and on the walls not to penetrate the walls to the outer plywood. That to me could create issues. And last, as with all trailers with a metal top, I must insulate that area correctly to keep condensation from getting on the aluminum top and falling back to the insulation and ceiling material. I am not an expert in this area, so I explained it in my layman's terms. It is what I believe at this time and is what I am addressing in my approach.

[lrrowe]

RVServiceguy,

I agree with you on being modular. I want to have everything I add to the interior removable for several reasons. (1) to get to any moisture problem areas should there ever be any. (2) Add or modify wiring later. (3) to remove selected items so I can use the CT to haul items should the need arise....not often, but if I really have too. Oh, and that does not include the Harley my wife will not let me have. And (4) to convert the CT back to as basic as possible should I want/need to sell it and if there are no buyers for the finished product. I could sell the CT and the accessories separately.

[RVServiceGuy]

All good reasons Irrowe. I notice the ct builds that go up for sale are the extreme budget builds for boondocks and stealth campers. I've never seen a ct conversion for sale that impressed me. They all look slapped together. I'm guessing the truly impressive builds stay in service with their creators or get scrapped.

[lrrowe]

There always exist the "point of diminishing returns" that everyone has for their project. I am somewhere between "get it done and get out there" to "do it with extreme pride". My long range plans are to do something that I can pass on down to my sons when my time to enjoy it is done.

[darrellbeck]

MY PET PEV HERE.... is that a lota folks got really strong opinions on something they (( they don't own , have never used, have never seen & they cant afford it )) but they sure can tell you what might be wrong with it.......


Cheers OTTCT


http://overthetopcargotrailer.blogspot.com/

I have to disagree with you on this. Granted, no matter what project you ask about, you are going to get varied opinions, some of which are valid, some that are not so workable. The thing is that this is where new and workable methods are originated. As far as people having opinions about something they have never done, I, as a retired heavy equipment mechanic have worked on many Cat dozers, but never on a Fiat-Allis. That does not mean that I would have no idea how to proceed on one.
Back in the good old days when I was racing circle track we developed a problem. Myself and my pit crew ( with a combined experience total at that time of about 40 years) worked on it for several hours with no progress. My (at the time 14 year old ) brother-in-law was wandering around the shop and suddenly stopped by the old parts and said "Hey, look at this." We had the problem corrected in under a half hour. Since then I listen to anyone, then make my own decision, which after all, is my responsibility.
I guess what I am saying is that as I build my next one, which should start in the next 2 to 3 weeks, every-ones opinion is valuable to me. Please feel free to jump in with your opinion. I value it, even if I may not use it.

[abqlloyd]

It's a simple cost-benefit computation. Dragging a trailer over the highway and gravel places amazing stress on the frame of a CT or and RV. There isn't a cost effective manner to make them leakproof. Add in the consumer desire for gadgets and all the comforts of home and it makes the prospect nearly impossible.

A single piece aluminum roof provides the best chance but there are still seams that need attention and upkeep. I would guess that 95% of RV owners never perform the recommended maintenance, especially on the roof.

Mine is aluminum roof and sides, but of course every roof penetration also adds a potential leak point.

The advantage of the CT to me was it minimizes the chance of leaking and consequently mold. Mold and rot are the real killers of RV's. With ventilation, water will evaporate. When it's soaked up by plywood and OSB or pine lumber, it will rot and mold. Even in dry NM they rot. Mine was designed to reduce the chance of that happening.

[professorkx]

RVServiceguy,

I agree with you on being modular. I want to have everything I add to the interior removable for several reasons. (1) to get to any moisture problem areas should there ever be any. (2) Add or modify wiring later. (3) to remove selected items so I can use the CT to haul items should the need arise....not often, but if I really have too. Oh, and that does not include the Harley my wife will not let me have. And (4) to convert the CT back to as basic as possible should I want/need to sell it and if there are no buyers for the finished product. I could sell the CT and the accessories separately.

This^. I built my cabinets in place, and while it would be a pain to remove them, if I get a leak, everything can be removed, it would just be a royal pain...

[lrrowe]

Professorkx,
I agree with your approach in terms of building cabinets and such in place. That will be my approach also. It is lighter, uses less material and can take into CT deminsional issues easier then trying to add prefab components. But as you said, while removing them could be a pain, it could be done. When I used the word "module", I used it too loosely

[RVServiceGuy]

I've been scanning your build a lot and love the work you are doing professor. I am not using prefab but am looking at ideas to make everything easily removed for maintenance. I want to be able to replace major portions in reasonable amounts of time with a reasonable amount of effort. My major goal is durability and long term sustainability for my build. Repairs won't be super easy but won't be a royal pain in the ass either

[pchast]

Re condensation:
I personally would use as much foam insulation can be fit
into the wall and ceiling between ribs, being careful to tape all seams. Keeping
the humidity from all the breathing and other atmosphere away from the colder
metal would effectively reduce the likelihood of many problems. I've read some
that went the extra step of using foam tape over or great stuff under the ribs.

I've not seen the 'improvement' results discussed yet.

[RVServiceGuy]

I've seen the foam tape on here. I keep seeing people jamming foam insulation in there and hitting then road for years with minimal maintenance on other sites. Some swear by leaving an air gap and drainage space for condensation. May do a really small trailer at first and test this theory. One summer and winter in Georgia with the unit outside 24/7 should do the trick.

[pigcooker]

Don't forget to add vents, and use them. Moisture won't
get trapped as easily if it has a place to escape. I have
a 6x12 CT that I converted, I added a cowl vent in the
back door. It is open when camping, and while stored,
as is a window, I have awning widows, and I open one
about an inch.
Another thing I would do over, if I ever bought a new
CT is have the floor put over 16" centers instead of 24".
I would also insulate the floor on the inside, rather then
the underside. Lay down 1" rigid foam panels, and
3/8"-1/2" ply on top, screw through to the existing ply.
Just My 2 cents, to add to the mix.

Doug

[RVServiceGuy]

I was going to do windows and at least one ceiling vent. I am more concerned about condensation between the aluminum skin and the insulation I keep hearing about.

[pigcooker]

If there is no moisture, to condense, because it went out an open vent,
no condensation. I live near Chicago, it is cold outside, warm inside,
if the humidifier is off or set very low the glass in the windows are
dry. When the humidifier is cranked up to the max, ( adding moisture ) and, or,
I'm making a pot of soup, the windows are fogged up half way to the top.
No moisture, no condensation.
All you HVAC guys chime in here, if this incorrect.

Doug

[abqlloyd]

Probably the best practice for long-term survival of an RV or trailer is to run a fan 24/7. It really doesn't take much power. A small 12v computer fan is whisper quiet and pulls milliamps. Running an attic fan in wet climates reduced mold by 77% according to a Building Science article I saw.