Alright I'm back to post the rest of the pictures!
Some more pictures of the hatch that I missed earlier! I am happy with how well it seals up! I ended up cutting into the t molding on the bottom of the hatch to fit the slam latches.
So I have spent some time working on the door seals. If you remember, I have an inner door seal and then an outer one on the T molding. Previously I had only the inner seal installed and it worked well. Once I added the outer seal, the door started to get harder to close and I had to make some modifications. First I purchased a smaller seal and moved out the striker plate a little. That didn't help much so I increased the hinge spacers 1/16" to 1/4". This definitely helped but now the smaller outer seal is too small. So I went back to the bigger seal and I seem to have reached an appropriate closing force. The one thing that I could not get to work was to have all of both seals in contact at the same time. Because of the door jam molding the outer seal has about 1/8" less room than the inside, I was not able to get the door to make contact with the inner seal on the latch side without having to apply excessive force on the door. You can see in the picture where there is a small gap that starts to form away from the hinge. This bothered me for a while but I have accepted it after it passed a thorough water test with the hose! The way it is now, the outer seal makes great contact and if any water does happen to get in, it cant get around the door and the second seal, leaving the inside nice and dry! In fact it seals so good that when you close the second door you can feel the increase in air pressure and hear the air rushing out of the rain vent on the window.
In a couple places where the outer seal was not making good contact, I took a clamp and was able to slightly roll the edge of the molding towards the door jamb. This worked great!
"Rain Test"! Outer seal did a great job of stopping the water
Now I see why they say to leave a little hanging off the hinge!
Added a stopper and catch for the door
Installed everything on the galley electrical panel. Well almost, and until I take it apart again!
Because a 50 quart cooler can weigh upwards of 80 lbs full, I deemed it necessary to add a latch on the front to prevent it from sliding into the hatch while I am driving. I also added a barrel bolt on the back end of the tray to lock in in place when extended, if desired.
The wife doing her evening inspection of the daily work!
Getting the Yakima roof rack tracks installed! What is great about this system is that you can snap the control towers and bars on and off within a few seconds. This will make it easy to travel without the bars when I don't need them. The tracks also seam like a great place to mount door canopies which I see myself making after a few outings!
Working on the alignment of the sink and water tanks. I plan to use two of these 5 gallon tanks. One for fresh water and one for grey water.
Time to install some carpet in the foot well. I used carpet adhesive on the entire bed level but I don't want to be adding any more VOCs in the small space. For the sides of the foot well I simply stapled it on. This definitely didnt smell and will allow me to easily replace the carpet it it gets nasty. For the bottom of the foot well (which should see a lot of dirt) I decided to leave it loose so that It can be shaken out our easily replaced. Right now it has some rubber drawer liner underneath it and I am going to add snaps into each corner to keep it in place. I implemented a little trick that I learned from being bored in middle school. It turns out that staples can easily be colored with a marker! I used a black sharpie to darken my staples so they would not show up so easily on the carpet!
I finally built up the courage to start on the speaker boxes on the hatch! My CAD software quit working for some reason and I could not figure out how much clearance I had in the area that I wanted. After some serious head scratching, I had a great idea! Basically I wanted to know where the corner of the cabinet it and at what angle. So I screwed on a piece of scrap ply wood near the hinge on the hatch with one screw so that it could rotate yet stick. I then closed the hatch and when it opened, it stayed right at the angle that it hit the cabinet! Ta-da! I then wanted to know where on the wood the cabinet hit. So I added a little masking tape that over hung over the edge of my sophisticated measuring stick, and then closed again. When I reopened there was a nice crease right where the corner of the cabinet was in relation to the closed hatch! This was definitely a game changer.
Starting to build the speaker boxes! I used a combination of bonding techniques to get these build in the right order. I ended up having to drill some of the pocket holes at an angle so that i could reach them with the drill.
After some tweeking they actually fit! It will look better when I actually get to skinning the inside of the hatch hah. For those of you that are interested, I installed two 6.5" polk db series shallow mount coaxial speakers. They are great speakers for the price and are rated for marine use! Having to use smaller sealed boxes, the low end of the range isn't very prevalent but everything else sounds great! The boxes actually have a very warm natural tone and will sound good with some bluegrass!
You should be feeling pretty proud of yourself 
