lrrowe wrote:MtnDon, as Bruce said....way to go.
My gut tells me it will work.
I say this because I just went out to turn the 72W work light bulb off in my trailer. It has been 32 degrees for an hour or so outside. It is 27 now. The inside of the CT was 42 degrees and I have no ceiling insulation, just 1 1/2" of foam in the walls and floor. I think I will go back and turn it on to see what the temps are in the AM after being on all night.
lrrowe wrote:lrrowe wrote:MtnDon, as Bruce said....way to go.
My gut tells me it will work.
I say this because I just went out to turn the 72W work light bulb off in my trailer. It has been 32 degrees for an hour or so outside. It is 27 now. The inside of the CT was 42 degrees and I have no ceiling insulation, just 1 1/2" of foam in the walls and floor. I think I will go back and turn it on to see what the temps are in the AM after being on all night.
This morning the inside trailer temp was 24.6 and outside was 21.5. Now with this data I do not kown what I have. The test was sort of a waste of time. First I need all the insulation to be completed and then I need to cacluclate the amount of heat energy that was used. Then it could be compared to other tests.
MtnDon wrote:I ordered another IR thermometer from an ebay seller as HF wanted more than double. I should have it next week (US shipper of Chinese goods)
I can tell the return line from the radiator is cooler than the incoming line, but can't tell by how much. That raises the questions of how much cooler should we expect it to be? How much heat transfer out of the radiator would be most efficient? The shipping schedule looks like the IR therm and the temperature controller should both arrive on Thursday next. In the meantime I'll go through the plumbing adds 'n' ends and find a valve suitable for testing restricting the flow. With the IR in hand maybe I can make some sense out of it all.
The higher the velocity inside the tubes the better the overall heat transfer will be due to the breaking-down of the inside film coefficient caused by both the turbulence and the sweeping action. The sweeping action will also retard the deposition of contaminants on the inside walls, usually referred to as fouling.
MtnDon wrote:
With pump and fans running the amp draw is at 0.67 with the watts at 8.7 (at 13.3 volts).
The plan is to run all night and see how many watt-hours are used and what the temperature inside the trailer is in the morning. The water heater thermostat is set at medium. The test started late this afternoon (4:30 PM MST) with the exterior temperature at 58 F and dropping. The trailer interior was at 70 F. The overnight low is forecast to be 37 F.
Return to Plumbing & Propane Secrets
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests